best after market fuel injectors for 2008 honda ft
VDO or Bosch are always good but if your replacing just one I would just use OEM to keep everything equal
@hdbikedoc
how long do fuel injectors last
@hdbikedoc
A long time. If you're having no problems, leave it alone.
Denso if available or even a low mileage used OEM set works.
@mrrangerzr1
check engine keeps coming on. misfire on #4 cylinder. it seems to run smoothly
with no rough idle what could it be?
@mrrangerzr1
P0304 I presume? Probably caused by random misfire condition. Tighten / connect where everything connects. Visually check the condition of your spark plugs and spark plug wires - I know, … Fits are difficult to access all this stuff without tearing many things out, … like wipers, wiper assembly, some trim parts, etc.
Anyway, … with individual coil packs, start by removing the cylinder 4 coil and swapping it with the cylinder number 1 coil. See if code changes to P0301. If it does, just get a new matching coil pack. It’s usually that simple, … except disassembly and assembly rest of the stuff!
F.S.
i put in new plugs and switched the coil pack and the check engine light still comes on
@stan
Yes. Light still on, … now you have to fetch a code again and see if it flipped from #4 to #(new location of your coil pack #4). Say, from P0304 to P0301 if you switched #4 with #1.
If it did flip, get one new matching coil pack, to replace the faulty one - the one in position #1.
F.S.
the code is still P0304 could could it be a fuel injector
could could it be a fuel injector or need a valve adjustment
as far as switching injectors there are too many parts to dismantle and put back together. Then do it again. If it is an injector should they all be replaced? But the car runs really good.
@stan
Yeah, … I know, I have ‘10 Fit. Not much different under the lid. Changing plugs is a bummer! Switching stuff and driving it to test? I dread if it ever comes to that. Honda’s prescribed trouble shooting chart is probably not followed by dealers, … they probably developed shortcuts. Like, what I would do now is run cleaner through injectors - not a shade tree project! I don’t think it costs that much to farm it out. Scotty has a vid on that, … how it is done.
Anyway, … I never had to do anything like that to my Fit, … just plugs change, once. Crap at the top of firewall removal and reinstall action was 98% of the effort.
Best,
F.S.
can you get at the injectors from the front by taking upper radiator support tie bar apart and move the radiator forward? It looks a little easier if it can be done that way. maybe i should have done from a shop. could i leave this way until spring? its getting cold where i'm from.
FS thank you very much for your responses
Misfire codes can be caused by a number of things. Did you use OEM spark plugs and ignition coil from a reputable source? Lots of fakes out there.
Don't throw parts at it hoping one will fix it.
@mrrangerzr1
i used ngk plugs and just switched the coil packs got the same misfire on cylinder 4. got the plugs from autozone.
OK, … let’s go back a bit. Let’s try this, … it often works:
- clear all DTCs
- disconnect battery for a while
- make sure all electrical loads are off - A/C, audio, lights, etc.
- turn ignition ON (II), wait 2 seconds
- start engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm (AT in P or N, manual in neutral) until the radiator fan comes on , or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 195F
- let the engine run for about 5 minutes - throttle fully close.
Note: this presumably resets ECM/PCM, resets idle, … otherwise, I’m being told, DTCs that were cleared hang around in the background and falsely return. FWIW.
F.S.
thanks again I'll try it. If that dont work i'll have it looked at .
@mrrangerzr1
I tried your recommendation, I got as far as revving the engine up to 3k then the mil came on blinking, so i disconnected the battery again and started the car. the light went off i drove the car for a hour and the light is still off. but im sure it will come on again. im going to have it diagnosed friday. The valves do clatter a bit,but some of the engines i heard on you tube sounded the same and some people said thats the way they even after a valve job. If it is a fuel injector should they all be changed ? the car has 90k. miles.
@mrrangerzr1
im going to have it analysed friday 75.00
Been reading through the thread and thought I would chime in. In my WSM for my Honda Jazz/Fit it says that you should check your fuel pressure and possibly your valve clearance. Your Honda may be the same (PDF attached)
As you have come this far you could also swap injectors with one of the other cylinders (like you did with the coil pack) and see if the code moves.
@gcphoto
thanks for the pdf. i checked it out . my problem fist started after a gas station fill at a convenience store. ive been buying my gas at sams club now and the check engine keeps coming back. sams is not tier 1 gas station. maybe i should try a different gas.
Hmm, could be. My car says it needs to run on regular fuel with an octane rating of 91 or higher. Not sure about your model, but worth checking what the manual says.
I'm assuming your vehicle has the L15A series motor? Do you know what version of the motor it is (L15A1, L15A4, etc...)?
@gcphoto
my car runs on 87 or higher my engine is a 1.5L-4
@gcphoto
that 1.5L-4 is what i got from the vin research . I couldnt find it on the car anywhere but according to wikipedia that model has a L15A1.
There were multiple engine types used. The L15A1 is the 'International' version of the engine. The L15A4 also has an 'International' designation.
Other versions were the L15A2, L15A5, L15A6.
If I find any info specifically about your version I will post it here.
@gcphoto
i had the valves done tuesday . so far the check engine light hasn't come on. If it does i'll try a higher octane. Do you have the same tear fit?