About 140k miles. It is an automatic transmission.
I got it from a dealer used at around 120k miles and since crossing the threshold to 135k it's stalled at idle I get error codes for all fuel injectors and the pump as engine light, traction control (though abs still works and electrical light are on. Electrical is the only one flashing, I swapped the injectors because they were old anyways, replaced a faulty injection coil which actually caused a flashing check engine light, haven't checked oil filter or pump yet because I wanna hear if anyone knows of other things related to this that could cause stalling before I go through the hassle of taking the fuel tank off on a car with almost no ground clearance. She stalls at idle or coasting if I don't keep the rpm above 700. I do suspect transmission needs repair but unsure if that's related
I wouldn't consider the fuel injectors to be "old" in a 2013 vehicle. Mine are nearly 30 years old with over 376,000 miles and they still work OK. (Of course as Scotty says those cars are overall not very good quality.) Did you install OEM injectors obtained from a trustworthy source? Chinese-made knockoffs and counterfeits from eBay and Amazon wouldn't work well.
You might check the usual suspects that can cause stalling. Scan for problems in live data such as fuel trims and misfire counts. Make sure your battery and alternator are up to snuff (low voltage makes computer modules funny in the head). Check fuel pressure, change fuel filter if old and clogged, check spark plugs. Check for vacuum leaks. If the transmission is suspected have an expert check it out with a fancy scan tool.
@chucktobias id need to get a new obd scanner and a fuel pressure kit, know of any decent low dollar ones? Researching before I buy more tools and getting feedback from actual mechanics would consider decent would be immensely helpful. As for the battery and alternator their functioning within spec. Didn't find any vacuum leaks.
You probably have direct injection on that engine which operates at thousands of PSI. There should be a fuel pressure reading for the high pressure pump in live data. Use a conventional fuel pressure gauge to check the low pressure pump. You may be able to borrow one from a parts store like AutoZone etc.
Here is a Project Farm review of low-cost scan tools:
You can find a repair manual for your car here:
https://charm.li/Dodge%20and%20Ram/2013/
Realize those are mainly Italian piles of junk with Fiat stuff all in them. I hope you didn't pay much for it because yeah even just the transmission failing can do that and those transmissions. I've never seen one last that long without starting to fall apart. But if you're anywhere near Clarksville, Tennessee, I check them out free in the mornings during the weekdays and I can tell you for sure
@scottykilmer I got it for around 6k a two years ago knowing it was trash, but it was also all I could afford to, sadly nowhere near Tennessee I'm in Oklahoma.