2014 Camry 2.5 (2ARFE)
P1603 Engine Stall History
P1604 Startability Malfunction
Hi, a couple of days ago when I tried to start my car after a short drive, it would crank but not start. Tried several times without luck. Checked fuses and relays and everything was ok. Disconnected the battery for a while, tried again and same thing. I checked for codes with my BlueDriver dongle and codes P 1603 Engine Stall History-P 1604 Startability Malfunction appeared. Suddenly it started and is working now. Checked MAF g/s values at idle with A/C compressor off and I think are a little low (1.8-2.0 g/s). Usually when I check it displays around 2.4-2.6 g/s. At idle, LTFT sometimes reaches 7-10 %. STFT same thing. Other times both rea 0 %. When you seat in the car at idle you can note a slight uneven engine. Only at idle. Otherwise car runs fine and at high RPM's all is OK. Hasn't lost acceleration. I replaced Air Filter, cleaned MAF sensor and added a bottle of Bernie's CRF just in case injectors were dirty. Throttle body was cleaned about a year ago. At the moment no new codes, but "weird" idle continues and MAF and fuel trims still positive.
Any suggestion will be really appreciated.
Great weekend to all!
2014 Toyota Camry SE
130000 Mi.
I would start by checking for vacuum leaks and I would also do my video. Make your car run better with a little spray cleaner. Cleaning the throttle and maf sensor could help
Thanks! I'll do that.
Thanks for all the advice. I ended up changing my MAF with OEM Denso part. The car runs fine but when you run a scan it keeps showing P0102. Took it on a highway trip for about 30 minutes and AVG fuel economy 38 MPG at 70 MPH. No check engine light or other codes present. But code won't clear.
Thanks again!
I ended up changing my MAF with OEM Denso part. The car runs fine but when you run a scan it keeps showing P0102. Took it on a highway trip for about 30 minutes and AVG fuel economy 38 MPG at 70 MPH. No check engine light or other codes present. But code won't clear.
After you changed out the old MAF with the new one, the code should go away after so many drive cycles (without error). I have a BD and it clears code quickly. Might try adding the MAF sensor reading to your BlueDriver's live data settings, find out if the ECU recognizes the readings, it should on your car. Check the MAF, STFT, LTFT and rpm readings over several minutes. Once in closed loop, scan while increasing RPMs from idle, 1500, 2500, 3500. Record at each rpm level for at least a minute. The info recorded can then be forwarded in an email. That report/record is very handy, it's easy to access the relevant data later. You'll know if something is off, and just how far off.
Thanks! I'll do that and post the results.