Few weeks ago Scotty uploaded a video talking about ATS 505 CRO Oil Treatment on a VW engine that can loosen up the sludge from stuck piston oil rings that could potentially help with oil burning problem. Does anyone have experience with ATS 505 CRO? Wondering whether Scotty is gonna upload a video showing the result from that experiment.
Unfortunately a product like that isn't going to fix worn parts. From what I can see ATS engine cleaner can help reduce oil burning in engines suffering from carbon buildup but otherwise have no other mechanical defects. Under some circumstances cleaning a worn engine can make things worse.
http://www.corollaforum.com/threads/why-do-corollas-burn-oil.7381/
Thanks Chuck ! I was always curious why this thing ate oil. I bought it off the second owner. Both owners had it religiously serviced at a Toyota dealer . The car fax was 8 pages long. It's been using oil since 97,000 when I bought it. It gets about a quarter quart thirstier every couple of years. Hopefully I can squeeze two more out of it.
ATS Chemicals 505 CRO works!! My daughters 2012 1.8l Chevy Sonic needed new oil cooler gaskets, but it looked like she had not kept up on oil changes, so before I torn into it, brought the engine to operating temp and did a leak down test. All cylinders except #2 showed a 4% loss which is pretty good for an ecotec 1.8l with 149k miles. With 75psi input, there was only 50 psi left in cylinder 2. I could hear air from the oil fill tube and the camshaft cover after removing the cap. I put in the 505 CRO and ran the car for about 15 minutes even though the directions say 10 min. Replaced the oil cooler, refilled the oil, coolant etc. Brought the engine up to temp and cylinder two and all other cylinders were at 72 psi when pushing 75 psi in. Also need to mention the spark plugs were a lot cleaner too!! Scotty was right, this stuff works! There may be cheaper alternatives, but this stuff worked very well.
It’s time for a rebuilt/replacement engine, if you like the car so much..
Actually the oil cleaner worked in your case and cleaned up the clogged oil from the piston rings, but the rings are worn a lot and that's why you are burning more oil. Imo, it is time to say goodbye to the car. That generation of Corolla has oil burning issues and most likely a used engine suffers from that too. If I were you, I would not spend money into that car anymore.
Absolutely a poor choice on my part to put money into it in the last year. The only motivation was the fact the car hasn't cost me a penny in years. It's basically paid for itself 4 times at least . I just use to as a commuter car to keep the miles and wear and tear of my newer car. I'll drive it till it stops. Hopefully long enough to weather this used car pricing. I've never been in this situation before. I would buy $1500.00 cars ,drive them for 3-4 years. Scrap it,
Buy another. Those days are over for now. Thanks for the advice. The only engine I would put in would be a rebuilt long block with a warranty. And I don't think it's worth the 4k all in.
I would do the same. Keep driving till it stops.
drive it until it stops sounds good, are you sure it isnt a leak as well as burning oil? 3000 dollars will buy a lot of oil so cheaper to buy oil than fix or replace if whole engine needs fixing? you say no exhaust smoke due to oil burning? check for leaks. oil pressure switch, rear mains ,oil pan? etc. Scotty has videos on checking for oil leaks.
I used ats cro 505 oil treatment in my 2001 toyota corrola. After using it per what the bottle said. The check engine light came on. The code was P0301. Cylinder 1 misfire.
Check the circuit and harness for ignition coil 1. Do a compression test on cylinder 1.
Ok. In the beginning prior to the replacement of the spark plugs and fuel injectors it cylinder 1 was the issue. Now it is multiple cylinder misfire.
What are the codes?
The electrical harness to the coils is 20 years old. It would not be entirely surprising if the wires have gotten brittle and loose. (That's happened on my 2008 Camry, BTW). As for the compression test, kesterpaul62's suggestion is good. It might be worthwhile to compression test all the cylinders, to see if there's any significant difference between them. (And it may be that the P0300 might show up again, sooner rather than later, if the harness or its electrical connectors have deteriorated).
The first code that appeared was P0301. Then code P0300 started to appear. There is 215,000 miles on the car. The first signs of the problems happened after using the ats cro 505 oil additive. Right after using the additive the check engine light came on.
Well the Volkswagen is working much better and I also put it in a Toyota RAV4 that had a clingy timing chain from a stuck oil tensioner rod and that stopped making the noise too
Scotty, have you tried the ATS fuel system cleaner?? {black}:idontknow:
Hey scotty, do you know where I can buy this product from ? The ATS Chemical cleaner that is.
@holyahead Scotty does not answer any follow-up questions in a thread. I suggest you create a new question thread to get the most visibility and relevant answers. Thank you.
With 100,000 miles I would use the oil cleaner and the fuel cleaner once
Do not add anything extra if you are not having problems.
Well you can certainly try but knowing Alexis is they're really well made change the PCV valve and if that doesn't fix it odds are your engine is just worn from not having the oil changed frequently enough during its history
I saw that listing but that is for the fuel and motor oil treatment, just looking purchase a couple cans of the fuel system cleaner.
Here is the description for the fuel treatment: "An advanced pour-in fuel treatment that enhances gasoline to remove carbon deposits from the internal combustion engine and engine components. This chemical mixture is proven to remove carbon from; fuel injectors, induction ports, induction valves, and combustion chambers. Carbon deposits on the injectors can cause drivability problems and poor fuel mileage. This advanced formula can clean coking from the port style injector and the direct style injector; increasing engine performance and fuel economy." You gave me a down vote for helping you......you can stuff your ats fuel treatment where the sun don't shine.
@boot
Comments like this are completely unacceptable on this forum. Please read the rules in the 'Welcome' topic. If it happens again, you will be immediately banned. Also, don't take votes so personally.
Just get the Gumout fuel system cleaner like Scotty recommends. It's available everywhere.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZMKcbC0rTs&ab_channel=ScottyKilmer
I was watching your video about using oil additives in the vw and at the end of the video you talked about an additive for an engine that burns alot of oil I wanted to give the stuff a shot in my 2008 Chrysler town and country 3.8
I couldn't find link for the additive thanks
Take a look at lucas high mileage oil stabilizer, people are getting good results with it.
Today I used ATS 505 CRO engine oil treament ... and the check engine light came on.
What are the codes?
It sounds as though the ATS CRO 505 has really gummed up your engine. I would get it to operating temperature and drain the oil and let it drain for half an hour. Then put in a new oil filter and refill with the proper grade and weight oil. Then, take it for the Italian Tune Up.
I believe this is the stuff that impressed Scotty in a recent video. ATS also makes a fuel system cleaner. That could be the one that Scotty likes. Unfortunately, this company sells the oil additive and fuel system cleaner as a set.
If anyone is wondering, I just ordered some ATS oil and fuel cleaner. They were out of stock and on back order a month or two ago. If anyone is interested in cleaning a car like Scotty, get them while you can!
My Scion is burning oil and I thought I'd give that a try.
Plusbig problem is if your Scion has one of the Toyota engines that was manufactured with defective piston rings cleaning carbon is not going to help it. (You did not disclose the year or model of your Scion, how many miles it has, or what engine it has.)
If you like to waste money, go ahead.
Hey Scotty, feel free to use anonymously in a video (they're very helpful, as well as entertaining!), I would like to try these products on my 2004 CooperS and 2013 Navigator, but any idea how you get ATS products? All products shown on their website items say "out of stock"... Do they sell through retail? If ATS products aren't available what other oil additive carbon cleaner would you rate the best next to ATS that is available?
v/r
If the piston rings are shot, then oil cleaner does not help.
Hey Scotty!
I saw your review on this new oil treatment and wondering if it would be a good try for my 2004 Chevy Silverado z71 with the 5.3. When I cold crank it you and hear the lifters 🙁 it has 118000 miles and wondering if it could help with that issues or do I just have a ticking time bomb? So far after few minutes it does go away. “For now”
Well you could try but those often have problems with the lifters and the problem with lifters is they generally just break down they don't particularly carbon up but you could try you never know
Both cars have over 100k miles and problem free. Would you recommend using ATS products as a maintenance item, or only when having problems?
1999 Corolla 185,000 miles . 5 speed. Named MILES !! Using conventional 5w30
Scotty , You've never let me down. BUT .. I recently used the ATS engine oil treatment 505 CRO for my 99 Corolla . And after the treatment oil consumption has INCREASED. I'm using even more oil than before. I've fixed all the oil leaks, Even the rear main seal ( with the help of ATP 205, thanks !! ) I've tried it all , every seal , new PCV valve. My last hope was ATS 505 and now it really has a drinking Problem. a quart in 800 miles. That's about 200 sooner than before. The car has had regular oil changes it's whole life 3-5k intervals. Is there ANY product you can recommend ? SHE'S FADING FAST ! In the last year I've dumped over $3000.00 into this thing because I love it so much and cannot find a decent used rust free Corolla here in Vermont under 10K with these absurd used car prices , Don't Make me Drive my 2019 Audi S4 !!
I remember you said in a Video years ago Carbon build up can actually seal old engines and you don't want them to be too clean because the carbon can actually seal the pistons. is this what I've done?
When is it time to walk away ?. Runs fine , exhaust doesn't smoke, No misfires , How much oil consumption is too much ?
Why not try some of the things Scotty says to help it stop burning oil? I think lucas was one of them, I think it was the oil stabilizer.
That may help it slow down the burning. That or either get it cleaned up and sell it, or drive it til it don't drive no more.
I'm going to start trying additives. Searching for options now. In my experience most of that stuff is snake oil. But, I have nothing to lose except another quart of oil hahaha. I would sell it.. but handing someone else a time bomb seems like bad karma. It would be a perfect car for a person who doesn't drive far. I'm noticing accelerated wear so quickly because I drive it roughly 25k miles a year. I even take it on road trips and vacations. Next time I'll do my homework. I only recently found out these things are famous for this. I guess I can't hang my hat on Toyota reliability with every model after all.
People say get rid of it but used car prices are out of sight so it's probably a lot cheaper to go get a rebuilt engine. It's the same thing with paint peeling. It's expensive to get the car repainted but then you look at what they're asking for used car prices and it seems to make sense to get a new engine or a new transmission or a new paint job or whatever. It could take years for car prices to get to a "sane" level again.
People say get rid of it because it doesn't have much life left in it. They become money pits. A newer car won't cost so much to maintain and will generally just be less headaches, so it's a better use of one's money. Especially if it takes years as you say.
I agree with TheEel ! I've worked in the car industry for 27 years. They are all garbage eventually. The used car prices now are beyond unreasonable. I don't mind peeling off a few bucks. But for Christ sake in my mind if a car was worth 3k in 2019 there is no way it's worth 7k now. I work with auction guys , I deal with brokers. They have to pay retail to get a used on their lot. I just can't pay three times what a car is worth only to throw another couple grande at it over the course of 18 months. People think I'm brain dead for dumping money into a 22 year old car ( and that is VERY debatable ). The reality is , IF i can get 12 months out of it. Not bad , I'm hoping for 24 months . that will be 50,000 miles with my driving schedule. Amortization of $2711,00 ( all in repair cost in the last 15 months ) @ 24 months = $113.00 a month. I have to find out for the potential at cost savings alone. In today's current used car situation. I can't afford to not try.
the key word is *eventually*. This one is garbage *now*.
Sure you could play the old car shuffle where you buy a cheap 20yo beater, drive it for a few years, and keep repeating the cycle. If you like constantly driving beaters then knock yourself out. I don't mind sacrificing a little extra to drive something I can depend on , that will last, and not have to replace things on it several times per year. I amortize the higher cost over many more years.
{blackemo}:laughtertotears: , it is garbage now ! I have a new Audi. If I drove that thing 25,000 miles a year , depreciation & maintenance would be thousands a year. I always have a nice reliable car too. This is why I drive a bucket for a daily . It's just cheaper. Less painful, much less.
I have a 2016 4Runner. 53k miles. Have another vehicle that I use a a daily driver, so I end up changing the oil about every six months, correct weight Mobil 1. I purchased it from a friend (anesthesiologist) who did not like the way he fit it it. He like most others simply changed the oil at the dealer when the service indicator light would begin, so every 8-10k from what I gather from the dealer records. Any opinions on using ATS Chemical 505 CRO on my upcoming change, to maybe clear out any hidden debris? The changes I have done show the oil to be almost new, with no real discoloration (I've done 2 so far, one is coming up).
Used the treatments both oil and fuel on my Mazda Tribute 4 cyl with 215k miles.... the engine does now seem much smoother and quiet. Of course, a rebuild of the trans and a main motor mount replacement also helped!
Thanks in advance for any thoughts or advice.
PS The fuel treatment seems to be very powerful. I've used 44K, Redline, and others over the years, but this one still had a strong odor when filling the tank after running through a bottle in a full tank (approx. 300 miles). Gets an upvote from me!
Thanks for your reply!