I have a 2000 nissan maxima which has been running really rough. It takes a few seconds longer to crank the car, and while in drive or reverse, the car shakes tremendously. Sometimes as well the car will just stall out and not turn on after stalling but then will get up and moving. I scanned with a OBD2 tool and its giving the code P1335 (REF) for a crankshaft position sensor. I then replaced the sensor that is associated with this code with and OEM part and cleared it out with the scanner, but Still the car has the same symptoms and not even 5 minutes after driving the CEL popped up with the same code. I got a new battery and had the alternator and stater checked out with my tools and they're all in good condition. I also beforehand changed my spark-plugs before this problem and made sure they're in spec and torqued properly. Im not sure where the problem lies now. Any suggestions please.
The reason it's having longer cranking times and running poorly is because when the computer sets that P1335 REF code and lights the MIL on your dash it goes into a Fail-Safe mode and ignores the Crankshaft Position Sensor REF sensor signal to determine 120° (TDC signal compression stroke) and uses the Cam sensor and the Crankshaft Position Sensor POS (sensor) to determine 120° and that's going to throw off the ignition timing and your car will run poorly so it's time to check the circuit.
Here's how it looks: I highlighted the Ground wire (Black wire) with yellow highlighting.
Start by unplugging the REF Crank Sensor, the connector looks like this:
Grab a multimeter and check for continuity on the connector terminal with the Black wire going to it and engine ground. Continuity should exist. If it doesn't, check the wiring to (and clean if necessary) these Ground points on the engine:
If continuity exists then you want to repeat the same test for continuity between the Crank REF sensor connector's White wire and the connector at the ECM.
Disconnect the connector at the ECM. There should be continuity between the White wire on the Crank REF connector terminal and ECM connector pin socket 65. There should also be continuity between that same White wire Crank REF terminal and ECM connector pin socket 75.
Here's that ECM pinout:
I found a video of a guy checking for continuity on the Black wire of this Crankshaft Position Sensor REF wiring connector and Ground and if you watch it it'll probably help to make sense of what I'm saying here. Just remember the Ground is the Black wire on the connector and that's what he's testing in the video.
https://youtu.be/gJEN0AiLgEM?t=35
Everytime i had a problem with rough idling or driving i always started with the most usual and easy to access ignition components like spark plugs, ignition coils, injectors, and fuel pressure only then i moved to the others (more internal or hard to access), prior to that, common idling problems can also include bad intake air filter or sensors.
Check this thread for more detailed info, if it's something out of your reach just get somebody to do that for you for a good price. Most problems related to rough idling are usually easy to fix.
