Car is a Toyota Yaris 2008 liftback MT - My car is having new issues starting that can be heard in the attached files. It has 200k+ miles. When starting the car there is a delay before it finally starts that usually lasts a few to several seconds. It has happened with a longer delay than heard in the files. Sometimes it sounds like it is just cranking over, or almost a whirring noise.
I am wondering if it could just be the starter given the mileage. It has a new battery and alternator, so that can't be it. I have read on these forums that it could be fuel injectors, or other fuel system pressure related issues. Has anyone had the same issue, as it sounds in the files? Any helpful information is appreciated.
Files - https://filetransfer.io/data-package/KYpQU8Gb#link
Additional needed info: I went to do my annual cleaning of my cold air intake AFe filter. I started the engine with it off to see if it had an affect on the starting issue - it didn't, however, the driver side head light bulb went out (low and high beam). Both my front bulbs are very new, and this is now also the continuation of an issue I've been having for the past few years where my bulbs blow out when I start the engine every few months, always one at a time.
I used to have a battery light but got that to go away by fixing a voltage regulator pigtail harness that melted - I thought that had also fixed the premature headlight burning issue.
I took the car into a local mechanic and he is going to look at it Friday, but he hasn't been able to duplicate the starting issue. I am on my last legs with this car and am for the first time seriously considering getting rid of it. Just undiagnosable electric issues, and now this starting issue which I cannot live with because of using the car for a delivery service for work.
I should add my cheap OBDII scanner is pulling zero codes. Mechanic thinks it's something electrical or the starter, will run tests on Friday.
However the left headlight is still out and won't come on regardless of trying new bulbs. I was told the grounds are good. Any ideas?
Have you checked for voltage at the light socket? Who told you the grounds are good? Did they actually test the grounds or just thought they looked OK?
The starting issue ended up just being that it needed a new starter. However the left headlight is still out and won't come on regardless of trying new bulbs. I was told the grounds are good. Any ideas?
Did you check your fuses by any chance?
I'm 99% sure the fuses are good but I will confirm again Monday. I think it has to be something that can affect both headlights because this issue has prematurely burnt out bulbs on both sides. In my car the high beam and low beam have two filaments in the same bulb. The high beams still work, it's just the low beam usually that stops working.
Just going to take into a nearby Toyota dealer next time there is an issue with the lights
Big mistake. They'll charge you a fortune and probably not fix the problem. Best to find a good independent mechanic experienced with Toyotas.
That is probably a good idea as my last experience at my local dealer was horrible. Unfortunately it is quite difficult to find a good place for import cars near me that doesn't have an absurd hourly labor price. I'll have to do some searching.
Might be a good idea to have starter, alternator, and battery checked. Auto Zone does it for free. They check all 3 at once. Only takes about 10 minutes assuming someone is available when you arrive
I will ask about voltage at the light socket and clarify the grounds are good
Last week I had a similar problem, driver-side headlight was out. The bulb was good, however. Fuse was good (there's one for each headlight). I happened to have a spare headlight relay so tried that with no change. So I checked for voltage at the headlight socket using a multi-meter and was puzzled to find that it was showing full voltage. Yet when plugged into the bulb or a new replacement bulb I had on hand it would not work.
So thinking about it I then used a 12V test light instead of a multi-meter and found the test light bulb would just barely light. Modern voltage meters draw hardly any current, but even with the small amount drawn by the test light the voltage at the socket plummeted.
The socket looked good and moving around the wires at the back made no difference. Further investigation revealed that the bulb socket was hooked into the car's wiring harness via a connector several inches away. Opening up that connector showed some corrosion had crept in over the last 27 years. (Danged lousy quality!) After cleaning that up the headlight worked fine. The end.
Of course in your case the cause is probably different. The point of the story is that you have to be methodical in diagnosing this kind of issue and the problem may not be what you think it is.
that's a good educational story and reminder that circuits are always best tested while loaded.
The starting issue ended up just being that it needed a new starter. However the left headlight is still out and won't come on regardless of trying new bulbs. I was told the grounds are good. Any ideas?
I will ask about voltage at the light socket and clarify the grounds are good, it is my mechanic that told me they were. He is taking the weekend off, so we will see what happens Monday.
To give another update the low beams are both working now. The mechanic who worked on it usually works on older american cars, so he was less familiar with toyota wiring. He said he had to do a custom ground or something, there are wires going across the front of the engine bay. I really wish I was more mechanically inclined to understand what he did by looking at it. When he did it, the DRL started flickering full time, and the high beams stopped working (no indicator light on dash either), but the low beams work now. I disconnected the DRL module following a post I found on a forum for Yaris's, so they don't flicker if I forget to turn the lights on.
Just going to take into a nearby Toyota dealer next time there is an issue with the lights and try to get everything back to factory. There used to be aftermarket head lights on my car, so maybe that has something to do with it. Thanks everyone for the help though.