I don't know how loud you have your tv or what that game sounds like but a pop at the db level of an actual flashbang would only come from the exhaust.

I'm not a Gamer but a flashbang grenade is just 1 bang. Seems like you're describing a succession of bangs, (like popping a "street ho" with a fully automatic Tec 9 to retrieve the money you paid her in Grand Theft Auto), which you're able to stop by either raising engine rpms or holding the brake pedal down and pulling additional vacuum away (through the brake booster) from the intake.

So is it possible that this banging sound you hear is pre ignition that's detonating before an intake valve closes and it's "popping" through the intake? Maybe you hear it at the master cylinder because the sound is traveling from the intake manifold, through the brake booster hose, and the booster's diaphragm is causing the booster's metal casing to resonate like a drum??.  ((does this sound plausible?)) I'm in too deep to stop now. It's up to you. Either continue to read or grab a shovel.

I'm thinking, you have that little 4 cylinder engine. What if you have a substantial vacuum leak which is causing a lean condition? (likely in only 1 cylinder because if it were a vacuum hose or the PCV valve being stuck open, or the MAF, or another sensor, the lean condition would exist on all 4 cylinders and the computer should easily be able to push the fuel trims positive and remedy it).

Also, you didn't mention a lean code.

Of course we're talking a lean condition on one cylinder so we can't dismiss the "fuel side" either. 

What if you have an injector that's sticking closed or restricted? Well, then why would raising the rpms remedy the "popping"? If an injector is sticking shut or has restricted flow the symptoms would get worse when fuel delivery requirements are increased under higher rpms. Your symptom goes away at higher rpms.

When the air/fuel mixture is lean, it's more volatile than the 14.7:1 mixture. So, it burns hotter.

It burns so hot that it can cause spots in the normal carbon deposits on the cylinder head to glow red (burn).

When this volatile, lean, air/fuel mixture enters the cylinder on the intake stroke, the glowing red "burning" carbon deposit can ignite it while the intake valve is still open. (it will "backfire" through the open intake valve into the intake manifold).

(after the compression stroke begins, it's harder for a "burning" carbon deposit to ignite the mixture because it's under pressure).

OK. I took the scenic route but we ended up here anyway.

Hook up a scanner and look for higher positive fuel trims at idle which decrease at higher rpms.

Give it a couple of minutes at 2500 rpms to see if the STFT starts dragging the LTFT down.

That will pretty much confirm a vacuum leak. You can "poke & hope" by spraying carb cleaner around where the intake manifold mates to the cylinder head while watching for your Short Term Fuel Trim to go down but that's "hit or miss".

It's best (and easier) just to Smoke Test it

It could be a lot of things- low oil pressure, starter components and/or worn parts in the engine.

If you don't know where the noise is coming from, this should help. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Wy5nqh3LSs4

i’ve already asked this but didn’t specify enough, but i drive a 2016 nissan sentra, my car is making a very loud flashbang like noise,  https://youtu.be/5tXQ91BYXgg  , this noise at the highest pitched part but it’s constant unless i press my break all the way to the floor, or if i’m pressing just hard enough on the gas, the noise sounds like it’s coming from my around my break and clutch fluid reservoir, ive been having a lot of trouble trying to diagnose it but i feel like y’all could help, thank you.