It might be the BCM, but it is still expensive to repair.

First I would confirm that the new parts are good by hotwiring the motor and check switch operation with a continuity tester. If parts check out then as with a lot of electrical problems on older cars, especially where simple electrical circuits have been replaced by trouble-prone computer controls, I'd be inclined to bypass the computer with my own circuit and control the window motor directly with a switch.

If you want to try to nail this down yourself then check fuse #'s 2, 10, and 17 in your instrument panel.

Next  test the new window motor you just installed.

You'll want to test the motor to see, if given the correct power and ground, it will work.

But you have to be careful. The motor circuitry has a Pulse sensor and Limit switch in it.

You have a 6 terminal connection on that motor.

You can't apply battery voltage to terminals 2,3, and 6 or you can damage the pulse sensor or limit switches.

So the motor connector looks like this and I've labeled the terminals.

 When you apply battery positive voltage (12 volts) to terminal 5

and battery negative (Ground) to terminal 4 

the window motor should turn in a clockwise rotation.

Likewise, when you apply battery positive voltage to terminal 4

and battery negative voltage to terminal 5

the window motor should turn in a counterclockwise rotation.

Let the forum know what you find out. If you want we can test the harness between the drivers door master switch to the window motor next, and after that the Power source voltages going into the master switch.

((I'll be back later this evening))

You said no continuity?  Check where the harness goes through the jamb for separation or frayed and grounded hot wires.