I am working on a 2002 Toyota Avalon with 172,000 miles.
To shorten the story, due to P1351 and P1354, after diagnostics, consternation, and test drives I eventually replaced the Bank 2 OCV Solenoid, the little screen/filter next to the solenoid, and the VVT gear (Toyota Part) that is attached to the intake camshaft on Bank 2. Doing so pretty much eliminated the two codes but every now and then those codes still pop.
I say the above as the real issue is NOW is at idle on a cold start.
On a cold start, the engine runs smooth until going to closed loop, then Bank1 STFT commands full Rich and Bank 2 STFT commands full Lean. LTFT are very slow to respond if at all. As engine warms up and computer drives lower idle the idle gets, well, not smooth, and kicks on the check engine light. If 1 is a normal idle and 10 is a turn the car off super rough idle, then the engine goes to about a 2 or 3. When the engine gets nearly full warm, the idle drops low, it sounds like the engine is about to falter, and then the magic happens. It is like the computer suddenly realizes it has been wrong and corrects itself sometimes even turning off the check engine light. After the "morning temper tantrum" the engine runs absolutely great the rest of the day whether at idle or max power or anywhere in between. Pending codes from CEL are P0300, P0302, P0304, P0306, P1150 and on rare occasions a P1354 or P1351.
I have charts of the Air/Fuel Sensors with O2 sensor readings and another set of charts for the Short and Long Term Fuel Trims. But, I am not sure I can attach or otherwise upload. If someone can offer direction I'll upload the data.
Anyone have any ideas?
- Well realize if you replace the VVT gear. It's very hard to have it lined up perfectly correctly. You may be off a little bit. Problem with those variable valve time is they can be variable and it's very hard to get it in the right position when you take it off and put it in a lot of times they move a tiny bit here or there and that'll cause all the problems you have
thanks for the reply.
I won't argue that there is a possibility the installation is the problem. This was a first so I could have messed up.
That said, however, I did my homework extensively as always, I have a shop manual I followed identically, including making sure the lock pin was unengaged when I torqued down the nut, and then locking the pin upon installation of the cam. I was sure to install the service bolt on the exhaust cam before removing the intake cam and then I was also sure to remove the service bolt after reinstallation of the intake cam. And the two dots on the two cam gears aligned as they should.
Further, once the "magic reset" happens, the engine just runs great. I would imagine if I had installed wrong that the engine would never run great.
That is why I am now thinking there may be a problem in the OCV solenoid circuit. That somehow the OCV solenoid doesn't open up until the engine is warm.
Is there a way I can post the 10 minute read of the fuel trims and the sensor readings? Because, it shows the "magic reset" when the computer suddenly wakes up reverses everything and then the engine just runs great! After the reset, it is like nothing ever happened.
When I think about installing the VVT Gear itself, the only thing I can think of would be the nut is torqued too tight. otherwise, the alignment appears good, I have a pic to that shows it.
Is there a way I can post the 10 minute read of the fuel trims and the sensor readings?
Instructions for photos and videos are buried in an obscure topic entitled READ THIS FIRST - Forum Guide in the Notices section of the site.
Posting the outcome and the mistakes made so hopefully can assist someone in the future:
Thanks to all for the help!
When the Avalon started this problem about 8 weeks ago, my son and I focused on DTC P1354. Ultimately, his car, so he decided to replace the Bank 2 Oil Control Valve (OCV). He researched and purchased the Duralast from Autozone part #TS1029.
He came to my house, put in the garage, grabbed some tools and he installed it.
Eight (8) weeks later, after much help from this and other forums, he and I discussed and agreed that the new OCV was the issue. I purchased another new one from O'Reilly's. It was Dorman part #917211.
He and I compared the two parts and though they look similar, they are different. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the oil cuts, or openings, are about 180 degrees opposite of one another.
We installed the new Dorman part and now the engine runs great!
In reviewing our steps, we realized we realized we committed a cardinal sin. Neither one of us compared the new part to the original part. Had we done so, we would have saved ourselves much time, $$, and stress. I normally do said comparison. But, in allowing him the freedom to manage his own car, he didn't compare and I didn't back him up by insisting on the comparison. I know better and now he does.
Also, please don't nail Autozone. This could be their fault and it might not be. I suspect one of three things: 1) the Autozone website has Bank 1 OCV listed for Bank 2 and is wrong in which case it would be the fault of Autozone, 2) who ever supplies Duralast to Autozone could have stuffed the wrong part in the correctly labeled box therefore not Autozone's fault, or 3) whoever makes the Duralast part completely messed up in the manufacture of the part, again not an Autozone mess up.
For me, I learned some new things about diagnostics and removed and installed a camshaft. New skills and confidence were gained.