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turning old 1966 chevy 327 malibu with carter carburetor 4 barrel

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 did you ever tune the timing by ear?

back when i took off all the air pollution stuff which follows

put on because of leaded gas back then and they put lead in everything solder was on all copper pipes and all in electronics and all paints

 some of which i think was used to repair cookware back when

maybe more things but that was all i could remember

solder is high percentage lead depending on usage

vacuum advance...there are centrifugal weights in distributor plug line

metering rods on rear barrels... at high volumes acts like venturi remove

heat riser for pollution did not have enough money for new headers left on

timing marks are for pollution disregard

vent crankcase to ground not intake

 

turn on engine

slightly loosen distributor so it turns

set rpms about 2000 and lock it there

turn distributor to increase rpms to peek 

when you go to far engine will try to stop (rpms reduce rapidly)

rotate disributor back to max rpms then bolt it down

done

 

note: Back then you could get all the carbon out by pouring a stream of water no more than pencil thick into carburetor intake remove air filter

takes two people one to pour and one to keep engine running operating throttle

you will see a tremendous amount of carbon come out exhaust please do outside only

 

IN GOD WE TRUST

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WATER IS A NONCOMPRESSABLE SOLUTION SECONDS MATTER ONLY POUR FOR ONE SECOND AT A TIME
TOO MUCH WATER TOO LONG CAN AND WILL DESTROY ENTIRE ENGINE DO TO EXTREMES OF INTERNAL COMBUSTION PRESSURES IT IS AS YOU JUST PUT INSTANLY PUT A TOO LARGE PIECE OF STEEL IN ALL CYLENDERS ENGINE WILL FAIL CATASTROFICALY SEVER INJUREY WILL ACCURE TO ALL NEARBY AND EVEN IF NO FAILURE ACCURES WATER AT EXTREME PRESSURE WILL CUT THROUGH ALL PARTS OF ENGINE WITHOUT YOUR KNOWING ABOUT IT UNTILL TOO LATE

2 Answers
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Posted by: @bobjdurkin

 did you ever tune the timing by ear?

I normally use a timing light on my older vehicles but have also used a vacuum gauge to set timing. In a pinch you can get close enough for the engine to run OK with static timing.

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I use the old fashioned method.  Set it at 4 degrees BTDC at idle then go for a drive.  Advance the timing by 2 degrees at a time until you hear it ping when accelerating under load.  When you hear that, back it off 2 degrees, lock down the distributor and you are done.  Also, I always used a spray bottle, not a stream to get the water into the engine to de-carbonize.  I never needed two people because I just reached over and held the throttle with my hand. 

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