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Search result for: 2003 e320 wheel bearing
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: Replaced Wheel Bearing, but There is a New Noise | 31Relevance | 2 years ago | Hixster | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The new noise might have been masked by the wheel bearing' noise. Noises can be hard to find, regardless, you need to find where the new noise is coming from. Have a buddy ride along and see if the extra ears might help find the culprit. Scotty has a video on how to find 'hard to find' noises: | |||||
| 2012 ford mustang GT wheel bearing noise | 30Relevance | 5 years ago | Ceejay2012GT | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, My 2012 Mustang GT 6 speed develops a what sounds like a bearing noise starting at around 40-45mph (60-70 kph) that does not change if I take my foot off the gas pedal. The sound increases with speed and is not affected by either acceleration or deceleration. It is quite noticeable at highway speeds. I'm sure that it is not rear axle gear noise. I have not been able to determine the source of the noise - if it is caused by a a noisy rear axle bearing or a noisy front hub bearing assembly. I recently inspected both front hub bearings and noticed that there was a considerable build up oily dirt around the ABS tone rings and seal lips on both front hubs. It looks like grease has been leaking out of the hub bearing seals for some time. I had to use a small wire brush to clean this dirt accumulation from the ABS tone rings. Is it possible that one or both of the front hub bearings has lost enough grease as to cause them to be the source of the mysterious whining noise that I am experiencing, and should I replace both front hub bearings ? Thanks in advance. | |||||
| Reliability 1996 W210 Mercedes Benz E320 M104 | 26Relevance | 3 years ago | Ahmad sumrein | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello, I would like to ask if a Mercedes e320 W210 1996 with an internal engine M104 6 and a four-speed or five-speed transmission is optional. Is this vehicle reliable and reliable in terms of breakdown or spare parts. I have another question for this car. Is it recommended to buy it after travelling more than 90 thousand miles? and what Is your advice on the high milage meter in America | |||||
| 2006 E320 CDI Benz | 26Relevance | 3 years ago | ssgchester | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I own a 2006 e320 CDI Benz. It is a diesel engine. Over the years had to replace various parts. And every so often like everyone I get the Check Engine light to come on. What type of scanner would you recommend for the car? Since it is a diesel, it is different. And yes I go get good gas mileage on the highway. But again, it is a diesel. I live in a small south Texas town and have to take it to a big city for work on it. So that is why I am looking for a scanner. | |||||
| 2005 Mercedes E320 for 5k | 26Relevance | 4 years ago | DylanYoung2006 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Thoughts on a 2005 Mercedes e320 with 171,000 miles for 5k? The car is in pretty good condition inside and out but don’t know about reliability especially with the mileage. New tires, brakes, front axles and recently tuned up. Is it a good deal? Price seems high, what might a good counter be? Thanks! | |||||
| P0120 code on 2001 Mercedes-Benz E320 | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | pc1228mb01emp | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Unfortunately, when I bought my EMP 9 years ago I knew nothing about you or your sage advice. Now I have a DTC p0120 high "A "circuit fault on a 2001 MB e320. I've already replaced the TPS & throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, the turd still runs in limp mode. Don't think it's the ECM because the thing still wants to run I think? Any idea what else needs checking? | |||||
| Good feedback on Mobil-1 high mileage and leaky 1998 MB E320 | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | ToyotaFanToo | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Have a 1998 Mercedes e320. 82k. Have owned it for roughly 17 years (2nd owner). It had pretty good valve cover and rear main seal leak for 3 years (proven by cardboard on the garage floor, lol). 4 drops a day made it to the ground and the engine would smoke from time to time. Low mileage driving average roughly 2,000 per year so oil changes are once per. 2 summers ago switched to Mobil-1 High Mileage synthetic. This summer (June) it had its second change with the High Mileage stuff. Not one drip in 6 months. Not one. | |||||
| Driving wheel not straight | 29Relevance | 1 year ago | gornea | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I recently got a brand new 2025 Subaru Forester Convenience (basic model) and I now have only about 2,700 km. Initially, the car was super fine but it developed a strange issue. The driving wheel is not straight. The car drives in straight line without input but then the driving wheel is not vertical, it stays a few degrees angle to the right. If I force the driving wheel to be straight, vertical, then the car goes to the left. This happens on all type of road surfaces, from parking to highway. The first thing I did is bring it to the dealer. They found a slight steer ahead issue and correct it. When I left the dealership the car was perfect like when I bought it. But it took just a few km and the driving wheel started to return at the same position. I was busy so I brought the car back to the dealership only a week later and by then the problem was exactly like before. They looked again at it, measured the alignment and found everything fine. Then the mechanic drove it and measured the alignment again. Then we went together for a drive. I told the mechanic the car was fine as soon as I started to drive. I told him this wasn't like that when I arrived at the dealership earlier that day. The mechanic and dealership they were insisting they did nothing to fix the car. I left the dealership almost believing I'm imagining things. But the driving wheel got the same issue after a two days, after driving about 10 km. I've been trying to film the wheel position while driving straight to show them, connected an ODB scanner to see if the angle of the driving wheel is available so that I have a measurement to show them, but I couldn't find that data with my scanner if ever it exits. Anyway, I'm pretty frustrated by this problem. For sure at the dealership they are like oh Subaru is very reliable and Forester the best. I'm all fine with that but the driving wheel is not straight. I don't know if they lift the car for alignment, or do something at the wheels, but for sure after they measured the alignment the driving wheel is straight. But it gets off only after driving a few km. I'm very puzzled. Is there an explanation or hypothesis of what could be going on? At the Subaru dealership they don't have the time to check the car properly. They take the car put it on the alignment setup and just print the report. But the car is brand new, I'm pretty frustrated to leave it with the driving wheel like this, it really bugs me. Thanks a lot for your feedback. | |||||
| Wheel bearing going out? | 29Relevance | 5 years ago | Anonymous 180185210 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey so the other day I was driving around Banff, Alberta in my 2010 Acura RDX, and at one point drove the right side of the car through some heavy knee deep snow at speeds lower than 5kmh. When we got back on the highway, the steering wheel and started shaking violently at speeds over 90kmh. I pulled over and found ALOT of caked up snow (obviously) in the barrel of the front left wheel, I cleared it out and was back on the road without any more issues or shaking. Now when driving there is a nasty squeal from the front right wheel, I’m assuming it’s the wheel bearing going out. Could this be a result of driving with the wheel full of snow? Or the cold temperatures (-15°C - -27°C)making it sqeak? Or a combo of both? | |||||
| Roaring sound after replacing wheel bearing | 29Relevance | 7 months ago | coxmac5 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have an automatic 2010 Ford Expedition Limited with 154,804.8 miles on it. I was hearing a roaring while driving coming from the front driver's side wheel area. It would get louder when I made a right turn, and almost disappear when making a left turn. The noise also get quiet at low speeds when I hit the brakes. I diagnosed myself and replaced the wheel bearing assembly myself (I did check the wheel bearing before replacing it and it was definitely going bad), yet I am still hearing the same noise under the same conditions coming from the exact same area. What else could be causing this problem? Is my rotor warped? Is my brake caliper messed up? Just need a pish in the right direction. My brake pads need to be replaced for sure, and if need be I will replace the rotor and caliper as well just to start fresh but I am very confused about what could still be causing this issue. | |||||
| Answer to: How often do you need to change your wheel bearings? | 28Relevance | 6 years ago | Ivanhoo | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It might be a drive shaft take the xar to a big empty car park go round in circles full lock both ways if its grinding banging possibley a drive shaft wheel bearing on front wheel drive cars last years as there a bigger bearing jack the xar up on yhe side you thinks bad knock it out of gear spin yhe wheel buy hand is it rough then geab wheel at 3 and 9 oclock pull back and firward is yhere any play yhen 12 and 6 same thing is there play you xan also drive on a nice smooth road in a straight line and go slightley side to side a swerv if you like putting the weight of yhe car on each bearing you should hear and chanfes in pitch ignore tyre roar though also is it defenatley yhe front as noises xan travel backwards hope this all makes sence cheers ivan | |||||
| Should I change my transmission fluid in my 2001 Mercedes E320? | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | cw140 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey. I have a 2001 Mercedes e320 that runs smooth at 172, 000 miles. I’m now getting around to changing my oil and oil filter since I purchased it a few months ago. Should I change the automatic transmission fluid? I have no idea the last time it’s been changed and am worried that me changing possibly ancient fluid might cause slipping or other issues. | |||||
| 2005 Mercedes E320 won’t start after battery replacement | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | Guideway | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| To recall moving videos from last Nov. of what you like about relocation to Clarksvile, have you or family been affected by the flooding? Hope you and family all are all healthy and safe. And the car question: Regarding an older model (2005, e320) Mercedes-Benz (58K mi, automatic trans.); trying to determine why it won't start after battery replacement. Advice? | |||||
| Answer to: 1998 Mercedes e320 V6 wagon thoughts? | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | Whatchamacallit | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You can get a glimpse below of some things that can eventually fail: | |||||
| 1998 Mercedes e320 V6 wagon thoughts? | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | PROTOx104 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty, I just got my uncle's 1998 Mercedes e320 wagon, nice V6 engine only about 75k miles on it. It's well maintained, nothing wrong with it, but I was wondering your thoughts on these older Mercedes in general. From what I can tell it's pretty well made and these older ones were still made in Germany I believe. Can't say the same about BMW's...... use to have a 96 328I and took care of a lot but still ended up being a pain in the rear. Don't think it'll be the same with this Mercedes but I was curious about your thoughts to try to make this baby last as long as possible! Thanks! | |||||