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Search result for: Should I change my ATF
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Power steering fluid or ATF for 2008 Lexus RX 350 | 22Relevance | 3 years ago | pdiddler | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... DEXRON II or III fluid for the power steering (I think there’s an updated version now for that liquid, but I digress). However, per a very respected Toyota Certified Master Technician on YouTube, he says to Instead use actual power steering fluid for the power steering system Instead of ATF, regardless of what the manual says. This makes sense to me since, well, power steering fluid Should be used In power steering systems, and ATF Should be used In transmissions. I would just like your opinion here: power steering fluid, or automatic transmission fluid ... | |||||
| ATF flush or drain re-visited for a specific application. | 22Relevance | 4 years ago | avalon04 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| In reading the comments posted here, I understand that the majority of you recommend that the automatic transmission fluid does not need to be flushed, but simply drained and filled. But I would like to address my particular situation. I realize that I will probably be directed to view FAQ's, but I have done that. I purchased my 2004 Avalon with 40,000 miles In "like almost new" condition as a certified pre-owned vehicle from a Toyota Dealership. They recommended to have the ATF flushed every 30,000 miles. I was Informed that for this car, they did not perform drain and fill, but rather flushing as that Is the only way to clean out the old fluid from the differential. It made sense to me, so that what I have done ever since. Now at 162,000 I have never had any problems with the transmission. It shifts as smoothly now as at 40,000. I plan to keep this car. I have had regular 5,000 mile oil and filter changes at Toyota and I change the air filter every 10.000. The car does not consume/burn engine oil nor does It leak any fluids. Recent Akebono brake pads and Michelin tires all four plus I replaced the headlight assembly with aftermarket as resurfacing them was tiresome and never fully clear. So back to the ATF. I understand that dry fill holds 8 quarts and when draining only 4.5 Is emptied leaving approximately 3.5 quarts Inside. To me that Is like draining 3.9 quarts of motor oil and leaving 1.1 Inside If It were possible to drain all 5 quarts. If the ATF flush and fill method has been effective, Is there a logical reason to switch to drain and fill. Perhaps I am missing something or not as knowledgeable as some of you regarding a higher mileage automatic transmission. Thank you. | |||||
| Answer to: Changing ATF in 2016 Grand Cherokee Pentastar | 19Relevance | 6 years ago | Kerem | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Should I change my ATF? How do I find a good mechanic? I would change It now, you are already overdue a bit and any more could lead to premature transmission wear. | |||||
| Answer to: Should I change my ATF | 19Relevance | 4 years ago | kirkmarty | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Thanks everyone, just wanted to give a quick update on changing the ATF fluid. We’ve known our mechanic for many years now. He’s very familiar with Benzes. Anyways, the transmission was running fine so I went ahead with just a ATF drain and fill. I’ve driven the car for several weeks now and It’s been solid. I even took a 400 mile trip across states and the transmission was smooth. No problems whatsoever. | |||||
| Answer to: Should I change the ATF? | 19Relevance | 4 years ago | InThrustWeTrust | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| What’s the present condition of the ATF? - | |||||
| Answer to: 2010 Lexus IS250 should I change my ATF? | 19Relevance | 5 years ago | InThrustWeTrust | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| What’s the condition of your ATF? | |||||
| Answer to: should I change my ATF | 19Relevance | 5 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Answer to: Should I change my ATF | 19Relevance | 5 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Answer to: Should I change my ATF | 19Relevance | 5 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| far from It | |||||
| Should I change my ATF | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | frootoftheboof | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey everyone, I would appreciate some advice on this one. I'm a car dismantler at a junkyard and a "weekend warrior" car mechanic. I have a friend with a 2004 Toyota Tacoma automatic, 180,000 miles, and she loves It. I recently decided to check the condition of the ATF, seeing If It would be a good Idea to change It/if It had ever been changed. The results weren't very promising. The fluid looks pretty dark (but not completely black), I've seen some pretty burned fluid before and I wouldn't say that this Is but I guess I just wanted to see If It might be a good Idea to change It before I purchase the fluid to do a drain and fill. Here's a link on Google photos of what the fluid looks like: It's possible that darker, burnt section of the paper towel Is residue from dried ATF In the dipstick tube, and not actually present In the fluid Itself. Worth noting: The transmission shifts flawlessly and the car has never really been used for towing, she just wants It to last "forever" and I'm trying to help her do that, even beyond Toyota's reputation. And just for the record I know doing a flush Is a really bad Idea, and that conventional Scotty advice would be to leave It alone. I just wanted to get some Input on what you guys think, given the condition of the fluid, the mileage, and the fact It's a Toyota. Thanks, Andrew | |||||
| 2007 Mazda 6 Transmission Issues | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | miirai | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi, my car Is a 2007 Mazda 6 automatic. I'm the 2nd owner and have been driving It since 2013. I've always followed regular maintenance on It (oil change, brake pads, whatever my mechanic told me was needed, really), although candidly I've never changed the ATF as I wasn't aware there was a need and my mechanic had never recommended It. (I was also not previously aware that this generation of Mazda shares the same transmission as Ford or I never would have bought It In the first place). Anyways, the car has served me well all these Issues and never really given me any Issues until recently. The AT light came on and It's giving a bunch of error codes: P0751: Shift Solenoid A Performance Or Stuck Off P0766: Shirt solenoid D Performance Or Stuck Off P0733: Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio P0734: Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio P0744: TCC Circuit Intermittent When the AT light came on, the car started having trouble shifting. At first It was just weak shifts, but I was able to use the work-around of driving the car In manual mode and It would shift just fine. Then about 50 miles later (the Issue happened when I was a bit away from home), the car started refusing to shift past 3rd gear. Also, when putting the car In reverse, It'd make a "thunk" sound and the car would jolt a little before I'd be able to drive It backwards. When I first took It to a mechanic (specifically transmission shop), they wiped the code and told me to drive around a bit to see If the code would come back. When the code was wiped, the car drove as If there were no Issues at all (shifted up to 5th, didn't jolt when putting It Into reverse) for about 10 miles. Then the AT light came back on and the same Issues were back again. That mechanic told me I needed to replace the transmission which would cost $4-6k. I took my car to another transmission shop for a 2nd opinion and that shop told me that It could either be the shift solenoids like the code Is giving, or It could be the TCM, or It could be the transmission Itself. When I asked them how do I tell which of those It Is, they told me I just needed to try each one until the problem Is solved, and recommended I start with the shift solenoids (plus replacing the ATF, pan, and filter), and quoted me $2k. I'm quote confused on what to do because both mechanics gave varying recommendations and neither sound like a solid solution to the problem. Is there any way to actually properly diagnose what the root cause of the Issue Instead of replacing random parts and hoping It works? I saw from Scotty's videos that sometimes replacing the ATF, pan, and filter can fix the Issue, or at least prolong the life of the car enough to drive It for a while longer. Based on the error codes and Issues my car Is currently giving, would that be a recommended place to start? The ATF Is currently between a maroon/brown color. Thanks In advance for the help! | |||||
| 2013 Hyundai Elantra stuttering/jerking before downshifting | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | dasbking | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra Limited with 125k miles and an automatic transmission. The vehicle stutters/jerks before the transmission downshifts. The problem occurs when I am light on the throttle, cruising at a steady speed, and the engine load Increases very slightly necessitating a downshift to a lower gear (e.g., very small uphill grade, accelerate <5mph to keep up with traffic, etc.). Before the car downshifts, It stutters/jerks repeatedly while I remain on the gas pedal with constant very light pressure. If I press harder on the gas pedal, the car will downshift and the stuttering/jerking ceases. If I keep the same constant very light pressure on the gas pedal, the car will continue to stutter/jerk until I let off the gas pedal. The Issue most commonly occurs at around 38-44 mph (gears 5 and 6), although the stuttering/jerking has happened In lower gears with less severity and frequency. Things I've tried: changed the transmission fluid (Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic ATF) @ 119k miles Upgraded to an Integrated fluid temperature sensor and Internal harness (see Hyundai TSB 14-AT-010) @ 124k miles. This necessitated changing the ATF again (Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic ATF) I don't recall when the Issue first appeared. However, It was prior to the first ATF change at 119k miles. The only OBD codes the car has are: C1205, C1208, C1211, C1260 (wheel speed sensor and steering angle sensor). I believe these are unrelated since they appeared after I changed the tie-rods and performed a DIY alignment. Otherwise, the car doesn't have any lights or codes. What could be the problem? | |||||
| Answer to: Should I change my ATF | 19Relevance | 5 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Check out the ATF topic In the FAQ, and read our previous answers found by searching: Short answer: yes you still need to maintain your transmission | |||||
| Automatic Transmission Fluid change frequency | 19Relevance | 2 years ago | duma4 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hiya Scotty, I have a Toyota SUV with 42,000 miles. Previous owner has changed the ATF oil at 26,000 miles. So It has run only 16,000 miles with the current ATF oil. But he changed It 7 years ago. my question Is, even though the car hasn't run much miles, Is It ok that the oil Is aged 7 years? He changed the differential oil too during that time. I'm thinking to change both ATF and differential oil since I don't want something happening to my transmission. | |||||
| ATF replacement question | 21Relevance | 6 years ago | Clovishound | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2000 Ford Taurus with the DOHC 3.0 liter engine and 160K miles. I bought It two years ago and dithered for a while about changing the ATF. The fluid was not terribly dirty or dark black, but did not have the fresh red color of ATF, just a little bit of red. The transmission runs OK, but occasionally shifts a little hard, particularly from 3rd to 4th under light acceleration. I finally decided to pump a couple quarts out of the dipstick tube and replace with fresh fluid, along with a bottle of Lucas, and see how It went. I did that and the transmission Is just a bit smoother. I ended up removing a little over a gallon of ATF. I was going to do a little less, but misjudged the size of the container I was pumping Into. Should I remove and replace another couple quarts and add a little more Lucas, or leave well enough alone. I know I'm probably on borrowed time with this tranny, and It will be time to junk the car when the xmission dies, but I would like to get another year or two out of It. I just ended up buying a new Camry for the family car and would like to finish paying off the new car before replacing the Taurus, although It doesn't really owe me anything right now. Also, the used car market Is horrible right now. | |||||