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Search result for: 2003 e320 wheel bearing
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| How to replace the wheel bearing in my 2015 Focus? | 26Relevance | 4 years ago | Cheryl68 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2015 Ford focus. I need the left front wheel bearing replace. I bought the left front wheel bearing hub assembly how do I install it. | |||||
| Answer to: Bad Ball Joint or Wheel Bearing? | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I suspect it is a bad wheel bearing but I also happened to notice the inside of my front tires were bald bad bearings van cause some uneven tire wear Could both my left wheel bearing and upper ball joints be bad? Or is one of the two causing all of this? I can't inspect your vehicle over the internet. You need to jack up the vehicle and diagnose it. Or let a mechanic do it. | |||||
| Bad Ball Joint or Wheel Bearing? | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | fgoodwin | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2006 F-150 I'm hearing some rubbing when turning right as well as squealing when in reverse. I can't really tell if there is a hum because I have lost some weather stripping in the door seal and everything seems a bit loud. I also compared the temperatures between both front hubs after driving and didn't notice any difference. Upon my own inspection I suspect it is a bad wheel bearing but I also happened to notice the inside of my front tires were bald. I had my lower ball joints replaced last year, still original upper ball joints. Could both my left wheel bearing and upper ball joints be bad? Or is one of the two causing all of this? Thanks, Finn | |||||
| 2009 Audi A4 Quattro - bad front hub or bearing? | 26Relevance | 2 years ago | Missin44 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| My son just purchased a 2009 Audi A4 Quattro with 2.0L engine, 169k, automatic. The car is excellent, except it get ABS, parking brake, EPC panel lights most of the time but not always. I do hear a whine from what sounds like maybe driver front, much like an off road tire sounds. The seller said a local shop diagnosted as a bad front hub, they're certain they didn't say bearing. The seller also couldn't remember which side was bad. My question: I'm reasonably clear on how to diagnose a bad bearing. But how do I diagnos which hub, assuming it's a hub and not a bearing? Also, on a Quattro do both front wheels need to be off the ground for a bearing diagnostics? Thanks | |||||
| Answer to: Wheel bearing gone wrong? | 26Relevance | 4 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The rear end doesn't have tie rods, the rear wheels don't turn side to side, they just roll. Tie rods push and pull on the wheel at a distance from the center to angle them. They're connected to the rack and pinion or the center link/ idler arm, etc. Sway bar links clunk, etc. when they go bad. They don't produce a constant humming sound. They're most obvious when you make tighter turns, they keep the car from having unacceptable body roll and they generally clunk/ knock in turns when the bushings fail. They'll also make noises going over uneven surfaces. I'd definitely check your tires as @itwt suggested. My girlfriend's 2017 Mustang made humming noises in the rear end that I thought was a wheel bearing. She was close to needing new tires, so we put those on before I tore anything apart, and that fixed the noise. They could have also botched the bearing job. | |||||
| Answer to: Possible bad drive axel, u joint, or wheel bearing? | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | scottykilmer | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I thought it's a wheel bearing starting to go out but if you have no play just keep driving it eventually when the wheel bearing gets bad enough you will feel the play then you can replace the correct one otherwise you'd be guessing if you just replaced it on a whim | |||||
| 2002 BMW X5 Wheel Bearing | 26Relevance | 6 years ago | drewpickles100 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Scotty, I got a 2002 BMW X5 3.0i with I assume is a bad wheel bearing. This is my first car, owned it since 2016 and has over 146k miles. My front driver side wheel has a ton of play in both 12 - 6 and 9 - 3 positions. Is it hard or worth the hassle to replace the bearing on a car like this, or just have a shop do it? Thanks! | |||||
| Mazda Wacky Speedometer | 26Relevance | 6 years ago | SpecialAgent8 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey scotty, I have a 2012 mazda 6 2.5l dohc automatic. It was making noise, my friend who works on cars listened to it and said it was a wheel bearing, he was right. I went ahead and replaced all 4 of them myself, press in and bolt in, I did them one at time over the course of 2 days and test drove after each one. After doing the driver front one and test driving, I got the abs and traction control lights everything else was fine. I did the driver side rear 2nd, then passenger rear 3rd. The passenger rear was the noise culprit. Finally I did the passenger front one, after hard work and a lot of success and satisfaction I disconnected the battery and reconnected, hoping to reset the abs and give the car a chance to recognize all new bearings. After I reconnected the battery, the car wouldn't start, so I jumped it and finally got it started. I went for my final test drive and the original warning lights were on but the car got really sluggish as I was test driving, the AT started to shift hard and threw two codes: po500 for the speed sensor and po61b for internal control module torque calculation performance (once I get to about 20-25mph is when it would get sluggish and drag). Then the car idled weird and would stall out when I stopped sometimes. If I turn the car off and back on it would drive normal right up to the mph I mentioned and start all over again. I eventually removed the abs fuses and did an idle relearn, now it drives perfectly fine except the speedometer is all wacky. Yes I did install the magnetic ring on the bearing correctly toward the abs sensor on the knuckle. I need help figuring out what went wrong, bearing installation problem, bad bearing or something got fried when i messed with the battery, everything was fine up till the last bearing and the battery disconnect??? Also the alternator tested low at 8-9 volts. I do have a mechanic that fixed my old moneypit stratus years ago (insert laughing horse) that I trust. What did I do wrong and can I fix it or should I take it to him?? | |||||
| axle repair bearings | 25Relevance | 3 years ago | gmwatson | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2003 Ford F150 with a left rear axle which is grooved from a wheel bearing having failed. Is it okay to use an axle repair bearing in lieu of replacing the axle and installing a new bearing & seal? If accomplished, do you need to use a repair bearing on the opposite axle to maintain the same out-to-out hub location? | |||||
| Answer to: Front right wheel hub wheel bearing keep getting slightly loose! | 25Relevance | 6 years ago | Doc | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It's possible that the bearing race is worn out, thereby having the bearing tight in one place a loose in another. | |||||
| AWD problems | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | Bamaman | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| A few months ago I bought a 2012 Honda CR-V AWD 2.4L Automatic with 100k miles. It runs fine, but some one broke two studs on the right front wheel, so I had my mechanic replace them, and wheel bearing too. Now I have the following lights on: ABS, AWD, Traction Control, and something about a Steering wheel. It also threw the code "wheel sensor is noisy", and thus sending irratic info to the computer. My mechanic said it was a bad ABS wheel sensor, so he replaced it, then he said the new wheel bearing he put in must be bad, so he replaced that again. He cleared all the trouble codes, but The lights came back on. What could it 🙁 be? | |||||
| Answer to: 05 matrix road roar noise | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | InThrustWeTrust | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I saw the video & heard the noise. I call wheel bearing on this one. There doesn’t need to be 360deg play in the wheel or metal on metal grinding. I’ve had 3 wheel bearings go out on different corners which sounded exactly like your noise. Started roaring at around 20mph & kept getting louder as the speed increased. None of them had any play in the wheel or grinding noises, just roaring. Use this trick - Jack up each wheel and spin it vigorously with one hand, while your other hand holds onto the strut. If you can feel the strut vibrating, it’s the wheel bearing at that corner. Keep us updated with your diagnosis. | |||||
| Front right wheel hub wheel bearing keep getting slightly loose! | 25Relevance | 6 years ago | EgyCode | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello, I have a very annoying issue that made me changing the front right wheel knuckle on my Suzuki swift 1995, the problem is the front right wheel bearing keep getting slightly loose with little rattle and play when I drive after i tighten the axle nut and drive the car for a short or long trip I feel the care pull to the right slightly when i apply hard brake at high speed! I feel the right side is not smooth as the left side when apply brake even when on low speed just after I tighten the axle nut as I mentioned before, but after that the car doesn't pull to the right but I feel something getting loose when I apply brake at low speed! I changed the knuckle many times, maybe 4 times as I remember over 2 years but the last one is the best as all of the others had wrapped hub, maybe I have wrapped rotor on the right side? the brake caliper is not stuck and I can move it freely on the guide pins, I've noticed tapered brake pads wear when I changed the brake pads few months ago! Any idea what to check for my issue! | |||||
| Wheel bearing? U-joint? | 25Relevance | 4 years ago | RussellJKelly81 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2003 Ford F250sd 5.4 auto 4x4 165k Today when I was swapping out the locking hubs on the front axle (Dana 60) one was pretty much seized in there, took about two hours of penetrating oil & hammering to get the driver side free. Even shattered a claw hammer on it. Once it was out I noticed the axle shaft had about 1/4" - 1/2" of side play (nothing abnormal in & out) in any direction, prior to pulling the locker if I hit a bump it sounded like someone spinning an empty toilet paper roll on the holder & it would stop after a second. Does that sound more like the u-joints or the wheel bearing...or something else? It's my first time dealing with a solid front axle setup so it has me guessing. When it's jacked up off the ground there's no play in the wheel at all. | |||||
| Scotty please help me. Toyota dealer lied to me & I almost had my wheel come off while driving after a trip to the dealer for a recall | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | mao709 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I went to the Piercey Toyota dealership in Milpitas CA because of a recall on the 2014 toyota prius that they told me was just a software update. They had my car for about 5 hours & did an inspection where they tried to sell me spark plugs, an alignment, front brake pads, wheels, etc. They also told me about a nail I had in the front right tire, which I agreed to have patched up. When I got the car, everything seemed fine, but after a week & no more than a 150 miles, i’m driving to work & I hear a clunk sound coming from the left front wheel. I thought the brake pads were worn out & maybe scraping, but the sound alarmed me alot so I avoided the freeway on the drive back home & took the city streets. The clunk was nonstop on the way back, & when I got home to check, the lugnuts on the front left wheel were so loose to the point where I was unscrewing them by hand. The wheel had so much play, & when my dad got home & saw, he said that the wheel being that loose could have killed me, especially at highway speeds, which i’m almost always driving at since i’m a delivery driver. I immediately called the dealer & spoke to the manager & they told me their mechanics didn’t touch any of the wheels except for the one with a nail (front right). After the “multipoint inspection” they also did on my vehicle while at the dealer, they gave me a detailed paper with the measurements of all the brake pads, tread depth, & all that. My dad found it hard to believe they could measure the brake pads without removing the wheels, so I brought this point up when speaking to the manager & he told me that they don’t remove the wheels to check the brake pads, & that if they do remove the wheels, they have to document it. He said that they check the pads from the bottom… whatever that means, so I bought what he said & hung up. Upon removing the wheel that was already almost coming off, I noticed it had white almost grease-like coating on all the threads for the lugnuts, & the plate that they’re on. Also, two of the threads were not even tight & in their socket, they were able to be pushed in with my fingers. Me & my dad had to hammer them back in to their sockets. After noticing the white substance, I took off the other wheel, the one that they worked on, & again, it had that white substance, maybe thread lock? So I took pictures & decided to check the back wheels, & what do you know, ALL the lugsnuts except for two on the back left wheel, were not tight at all. I was able to take them of using only one hand of force with my tire iron. After taking each back wheel off, again they all had that white substance that I have never owned, or never put on any of my wheels lug nuts or plates, since I bought the car from that Toyota dealer. Did I just get lied too? It seems like they definitely took of all the wheels, & didn’t properly tighten any of the nuts. I’d like to add that when telling the manager that I went in on the 25th of October, & it’s been about a week since then, he told me that if the lugs were loose like I mentioned, they should have been obvious within 2 miles of me driving. I don’t know how true that statement is, but I’ve watched so many of yours videos & have done as much maintenance on my own thanks to you. I’m expecting to call them back tomorrow. Please help Scotty. I’m not sure what to do or what I can even do. | |||||