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Search result for: 2003 e320 wheel bearing
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| How to replace the wheel bearing in my 2015 Focus? | 25Relevance | 4 years ago | Cheryl68 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2015 Ford focus. I need the left front wheel bearing replace. I bought the left front wheel bearing hub assembly how do I install it. | |||||
| Answer to: Bad Ball Joint or Wheel Bearing? | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I suspect it is a bad wheel bearing but I also happened to notice the inside of my front tires were bald bad bearings van cause some uneven tire wear Could both my left wheel bearing and upper ball joints be bad? Or is one of the two causing all of this? I can't inspect your vehicle over the internet. You need to jack up the vehicle and diagnose it. Or let a mechanic do it. | |||||
| Bad Ball Joint or Wheel Bearing? | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | fgoodwin | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2006 F-150 I'm hearing some rubbing when turning right as well as squealing when in reverse. I can't really tell if there is a hum because I have lost some weather stripping in the door seal and everything seems a bit loud. I also compared the temperatures between both front hubs after driving and didn't notice any difference. Upon my own inspection I suspect it is a bad wheel bearing but I also happened to notice the inside of my front tires were bald. I had my lower ball joints replaced last year, still original upper ball joints. Could both my left wheel bearing and upper ball joints be bad? Or is one of the two causing all of this? Thanks, Finn | |||||
| Answer to: Wheel bearing gone wrong? | 25Relevance | 4 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The rear end doesn't have tie rods, the rear wheels don't turn side to side, they just roll. Tie rods push and pull on the wheel at a distance from the center to angle them. They're connected to the rack and pinion or the center link/ idler arm, etc. Sway bar links clunk, etc. when they go bad. They don't produce a constant humming sound. They're most obvious when you make tighter turns, they keep the car from having unacceptable body roll and they generally clunk/ knock in turns when the bushings fail. They'll also make noises going over uneven surfaces. I'd definitely check your tires as @itwt suggested. My girlfriend's 2017 Mustang made humming noises in the rear end that I thought was a wheel bearing. She was close to needing new tires, so we put those on before I tore anything apart, and that fixed the noise. They could have also botched the bearing job. | |||||
| Answer to: Possible bad drive axel, u joint, or wheel bearing? | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | scottykilmer | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I thought it's a wheel bearing starting to go out but if you have no play just keep driving it eventually when the wheel bearing gets bad enough you will feel the play then you can replace the correct one otherwise you'd be guessing if you just replaced it on a whim | |||||
| 2002 BMW X5 Wheel Bearing | 25Relevance | 6 years ago | drewpickles100 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Scotty, I got a 2002 BMW X5 3.0i with I assume is a bad wheel bearing. This is my first car, owned it since 2016 and has over 146k miles. My front driver side wheel has a ton of play in both 12 - 6 and 9 - 3 positions. Is it hard or worth the hassle to replace the bearing on a car like this, or just have a shop do it? Thanks! | |||||
| Mazda Wacky Speedometer | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | SpecialAgent8 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey scotty, I have a 2012 mazda 6 2.5l dohc automatic. It was making noise, my friend who works on cars listened to it and said it was a wheel bearing, he was right. I went ahead and replaced all 4 of them myself, press in and bolt in, I did them one at time over the course of 2 days and test drove after each one. After doing the driver front one and test driving, I got the abs and traction control lights everything else was fine. I did the driver side rear 2nd, then passenger rear 3rd. The passenger rear was the noise culprit. Finally I did the passenger front one, after hard work and a lot of success and satisfaction I disconnected the battery and reconnected, hoping to reset the abs and give the car a chance to recognize all new bearings. After I reconnected the battery, the car wouldn't start, so I jumped it and finally got it started. I went for my final test drive and the original warning lights were on but the car got really sluggish as I was test driving, the AT started to shift hard and threw two codes: po500 for the speed sensor and po61b for internal control module torque calculation performance (once I get to about 20-25mph is when it would get sluggish and drag). Then the car idled weird and would stall out when I stopped sometimes. If I turn the car off and back on it would drive normal right up to the mph I mentioned and start all over again. I eventually removed the abs fuses and did an idle relearn, now it drives perfectly fine except the speedometer is all wacky. Yes I did install the magnetic ring on the bearing correctly toward the abs sensor on the knuckle. I need help figuring out what went wrong, bearing installation problem, bad bearing or something got fried when i messed with the battery, everything was fine up till the last bearing and the battery disconnect??? Also the alternator tested low at 8-9 volts. I do have a mechanic that fixed my old moneypit stratus years ago (insert laughing horse) that I trust. What did I do wrong and can I fix it or should I take it to him?? | |||||
| Front right wheel hub wheel bearing keep getting slightly loose! | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | EgyCode | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello, I have a very annoying issue that made me changing the front right wheel knuckle on my Suzuki swift 1995, the problem is the front right wheel bearing keep getting slightly loose with little rattle and play when I drive after i tighten the axle nut and drive the car for a short or long trip I feel the care pull to the right slightly when i apply hard brake at high speed! I feel the right side is not smooth as the left side when apply brake even when on low speed just after I tighten the axle nut as I mentioned before, but after that the car doesn't pull to the right but I feel something getting loose when I apply brake at low speed! I changed the knuckle many times, maybe 4 times as I remember over 2 years but the last one is the best as all of the others had wrapped hub, maybe I have wrapped rotor on the right side? the brake caliper is not stuck and I can move it freely on the guide pins, I've noticed tapered brake pads wear when I changed the brake pads few months ago! Any idea what to check for my issue! | |||||
| axle repair bearings | 24Relevance | 3 years ago | gmwatson | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2003 Ford F150 with a left rear axle which is grooved from a wheel bearing having failed. Is it okay to use an axle repair bearing in lieu of replacing the axle and installing a new bearing & seal? If accomplished, do you need to use a repair bearing on the opposite axle to maintain the same out-to-out hub location? | |||||
| Answer to: Front right wheel hub wheel bearing keep getting slightly loose! | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | Doc | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It's possible that the bearing race is worn out, thereby having the bearing tight in one place a loose in another. | |||||
| AWD problems | 23Relevance | 5 years ago | Bamaman | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| A few months ago I bought a 2012 Honda CR-V AWD 2.4L Automatic with 100k miles. It runs fine, but some one broke two studs on the right front wheel, so I had my mechanic replace them, and wheel bearing too. Now I have the following lights on: ABS, AWD, Traction Control, and something about a Steering wheel. It also threw the code "wheel sensor is noisy", and thus sending irratic info to the computer. My mechanic said it was a bad ABS wheel sensor, so he replaced it, then he said the new wheel bearing he put in must be bad, so he replaced that again. He cleared all the trouble codes, but The lights came back on. What could it 🙁 be? | |||||
| Answer to: 05 matrix road roar noise | 23Relevance | 5 years ago | InThrustWeTrust | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I saw the video & heard the noise. I call wheel bearing on this one. There doesn’t need to be 360deg play in the wheel or metal on metal grinding. I’ve had 3 wheel bearings go out on different corners which sounded exactly like your noise. Started roaring at around 20mph & kept getting louder as the speed increased. None of them had any play in the wheel or grinding noises, just roaring. Use this trick - Jack up each wheel and spin it vigorously with one hand, while your other hand holds onto the strut. If you can feel the strut vibrating, it’s the wheel bearing at that corner. Keep us updated with your diagnosis. | |||||
| Wheel bearing? U-joint? | 24Relevance | 4 years ago | RussellJKelly81 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2003 Ford F250sd 5.4 auto 4x4 165k Today when I was swapping out the locking hubs on the front axle (Dana 60) one was pretty much seized in there, took about two hours of penetrating oil & hammering to get the driver side free. Even shattered a claw hammer on it. Once it was out I noticed the axle shaft had about 1/4" - 1/2" of side play (nothing abnormal in & out) in any direction, prior to pulling the locker if I hit a bump it sounded like someone spinning an empty toilet paper roll on the holder & it would stop after a second. Does that sound more like the u-joints or the wheel bearing...or something else? It's my first time dealing with a solid front axle setup so it has me guessing. When it's jacked up off the ground there's no play in the wheel at all. | |||||
| Stuck Axle Bearing | 23Relevance | 4 years ago | Nicolelexus | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Greetings from Baltimore! I just bought a used 2007 Lexus GS 350. The mileage is 143,900. My mechanic looked at it and suggested that it was in great shape. I had to get some work done to change the front two axles and brakes. The right front passenger axle bearing is immovable. I took it to a Nissan dealership shop near my home and they couldn’t remove the axle either. I watched a guy use all kinds of tools and techniques to loosen the bearing. He even pulled out a torch and melted my oil sensor trying to release the bearing. The mechanic mentioned that my upper oil pan might have to be replaced in order to remove the axle . Now my car sounds like a train chugging from the front right passenger wheel. Is there any hope to fix the vehicle or should I just trade it in for a newer model? Thanks for your advice ! | |||||
| Possible Camry hybrid transmission problem | 23Relevance | 2 years ago | SeatonBM | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Is this a transmission/PSD issue? Can it be fix, or is a transmission/PSD replacement in my future? Or is it nothing? (Camry hybrid) Does anyone else's car do this? Anything I can do to fix this or figure out why it is doing this? The TLDR is: I have a 2014 Toyota Camry XLE Hybrid. Recently I have noticed that when I take my foot off the gas (especially at highway speeds) the car sort of jerks when I let off the gas, and jerks again if I hit the gas a gain... It's hard to describe this accurately, jerk is sort of a harsh word - but it's like it doesn't shift smoothly, though being a CVT, I would almost liken the feeling like as if the CVT transmission "belt" were stretched out, or something, and had some play in it when I let my foot off the gas/re-engage the gas... It makes no noises, and other than this, it drives pretty normally. This primarily happens when I am trying to keep a speed or accelerating, then say a car ahead of me hits the brake or something, and I let off the gas, to coast, then hit the gas to maintain speed or accelerate if able. It doesn't always occur, but it primarily happens in such a situation. Especially if I am accelerating, then let off suddenly, or suddenly accelerate again... If I ease into letting off/on, it usually transitions somewhat smoothly. I thought maybe it's a transmission/engine mount, but... When I Rev the engine with the hood open with the car parked, the engine doesn't move, really at all. I won't lie, I do drive the car a little hard, hard acceleration, etc... But I also baby the car in other ways, for example I always come to a complete stop before shifting between reverse and drive, I usually even avoid go from neutral to any gear if the car is in motion (like leaving a car wash, I try to brake to a stop before shifting). I avoid bumps, or take them slow, etc. One key thing that happened recently, is that I replaced the CV axle assemblies and transmission fluid. I only mention this because I bought the fluid and axles from my local Toyota dealership, but they sold me a 26 spline driver side axle... Long story as to how I came to realizing this - let's just say I had to replace both the driver axle and front wheel bearing/hub twice because the original axle/hub was a 30 spline (and the passenger side axle/hub both original and replacement had 30 splines, why would the driver side be 26 splines if the passenger side is 30 splines, and the driver side hub was 30 splines originally). I replaced the driver side axle with the 26 spline axle Toyota sold me unaware it was not 30 spline axle, where the replacement hub was a 30 spline hub... I came to this realization after getting about half a mile from my house on a test drive, without my cell phone, everything was great until it wasn't, the driver side axle started spinning freely inside the hub, tearing splines up and, and causing the axle nut that I torqued to 213ft/lbs to essentially spin freely (took about half a mile to loosen up I guess), cross threading it bad enough I had to cut it off... I pushed the car back home (after walking home, getting the wife and kid, and walking back to the car - and that is why you never test drive without a cell phone). I spoke to Toyota, they swear up and down that they sold me the correct part for my VIN#. I am still of the belief that isn't correct... But I bought another 26 spline axle and a 26 spline hub, pressed the new hub/bearing and installed the new axle, and everything seems generally good as new. It's possible this jerky feeling I am feeling has always been there, and now I am hyper sensitive to it after doing all this car work, but... I am just now taking notice of it anyways. But it feels like it has to be kind of hard on the transmission/PSD when it happens, over time. Additional question: Does it seem like time to prepare for a replacement transmission/PSD? Does the 2014 Toyota Camry XLE Hybrid share the same transmission/PSD as the Lexus ES300h? Both seem to use the same part # (30900-33030 or 33040 or 33053). Based on the part # alone, I'd say yes, but...Some places say no when I do a compatibility check with my car. And for that matter, does the Camry and ES300h use the same hybrid battery G9510-33050, I have been starting the prep/search for a good price for a new battery (from Toyota, no 3rd party), as I am probably on borrowed time with the original. Further information/History: I've owned the car since 2016, and roughly since 30,000 miles - my father bought the car certified used from the dealership around 28,000 miles, and then passed away shortly afterwards, and I essentially inherited the car... It now has over 183,000 miles (mostly highway), and for the most part, it's still going strong! Up until a little bit ago, it was mostly all original parts - but recently I've replaced (mostly doing my own repairs/maintenances): -Both CV axle assemblies (Toyota)-Passenger side CV bearing support bracket (DuraLast/AutoZone)-Both front knuckles (TRQ/A1-Auto)-All 4 wheel bearings and hub (fronts are SKF, rears unknown - a shop did those)-All 4 struts/springs (KYB)-All 4 sway bar links (Toyota)-Both front lower control arms (Toyota)-Both front tie rods (not sure brand, a shop did those)-Both front brake calipers (DuraLast/AutoZone)-All 4 wheel's ceramic brake pads and coated rotors (Wagner)-Front driver speed sensor (DuraLast/AutoZone)-12 Volt battery (Toyota)-Air conditioner blower fan (Um... RockAuto, forget brand)-Engine radiator/AC condenser cooling fans (TYC)-All 4 spark plugs (Denso)-All 4 TPMS sensors (Denso) And other miscellaneous stuff like fog and headlight light bulbs, tires, etc. I've also had the wheel balance and alignment checked recently. I have also religiously performed oil changes with new crush washers and Toyota oil filters, engine air filter, cabin air filters, all maintenances at scheduled intervals (oil changes were done every 10,000 miles when the car was mostly a highway car - now I do oil every 5,000 miles as I don't drive nearly as much on the highway as I use to). the transmission fluid has also been replaced first around 100,000 miles (mostly highway miles), and it was replaced again about 75,000 miles later (technically it was replaced a 3rd time about 6,000 miles afterwards, sort of by accident - I replaced the CV axles, lost some fluid, went to top the fluid off and mindlessly opened the drain plug - so I filled it up with all new fluid), always using Toyota ATF-WS transmission fluid, and replaced crush washers. the coolant (both inverter and engine) and brake fluid also have been routinely changed, and the hybrid filter routinely cleaned. Spark plugs were replaced at 125,000 miles. This car is religiously maintained! And I use proper torque specs/torque wrench when tightening bolts/screws! And the car is essentially all stock, no mods. Unrelated but interesting side note: It was rather surprising to me when my engine radiator/AC condenser cooling fans failed. I learned of this issue when my AC quit blowing cold unless I was moving, but if I idled at a traffic light or parked, the AC would blow warm. Which naturally made me think the condenser was unable to radiate the heat from the compressor unless air was passing by it while moving. When parked, a fan moves air past the condenser, but because the fan failed, this wasn't occurring. To my surprise when I looked at the fan, neither the condenser nor engine radiator fan were working. My best theory is, unless they some how failed at the same time (unlikely) the engine radiator fan failed first, but went unnoticed because the engine never overheated, though further interesting is the fact that even when both fans failed, the engine still never overheated, probably because as I am moving, air passes through it - and when I am still, the engine kicks off and the car runs on the hybrid battery. The engine never overheated, and replacing both fans (an assembly) fixed my AC issue, it now blows cold all the time when on. Given I've literally replaced the AC blower fan, and the engine radiator and AC condenser fans by this point... Maybe I might want to consider getting a spare hybrid battery cooling fan on hand. Seems like fans have not been this car's point of focus in quality. | |||||