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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: 2012 civic | 17Relevance | 2 years ago | Hixster | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The Kelley blue book value for that Civic in good condition with 78K miles is between $8158 and $10477. KBB's values are typically inflated because the data comes from the dealers. This dealer is asking a price that is above the full retail value for that car. 2012 Honda Civic EX (KBB price range) | |||||
| "Identical" trans fluid, different colors | 16Relevance | 3 years ago | mtymk076 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, I recently did an automatic transmission drain and refill in my wife's 2014 Mazda CX5 GT using Aisin ATF-MFZ. I bought 4 quarts, and used ~3.5L. Three of the bottles were red in fluid color and one was blue. I checked the bottles and they were word for word identical and just figured that the company sold the ATF in both red and blue color and I was sent one of the blue ones by chance, but now I'm second guessing myself. Should I drain and refill again? Or is my transmission OK? Thanks, Mike | |||||
| Answer to: EVAP monitor is ready, no check engine light (no DTCs), but Evaporative Emissions not passed during an OBD emissions test. | 16Relevance | 4 years ago | JohnnyRemlik | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Update: I bought a blue Driver OBD scan tool instead of the cheap one. The blue Driver shows that all smog tests passed. I think the cheap scan tool has software issues. I am inclined to believe the blue Driver more than the cheap scan tool. | |||||
| Castrol caught lying | 18Relevance | 5 years ago | TexAus | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Not really a question just wanted to post this to let everyone and Scotty know, to get the word out. I got a 2007 camry off this guy from sydney. Didnt have a user manual so for a while i didnt have one until i just downloaded one off the internet. Solid car really, no complaints, no codes used blue driver scan tool when i test drove it. Anyways, I like to change my own fluids its very easy to do on this car, went to supercheap auto site, put in my car looked for suggested oils. Shopped for the ones 'fits your car'. Then double checked on castrol site, said same thing, same oil weights. Did the oil change with some 5w-30. Also noticed this was the recommended oil and alternatives were 10w-30. Got my user manual, actually recommends 0w-20. Says you 'can' use 5w-20 if you really have to. The big deal is it does not say anywhere on here anything about 10w-30 or 5w-30. Youd think it would recommend 0w-20 and 5w-20 as a backup. Sent an email to castrol no response. [PERSONAL INFO REDACTED] Jan 6, 2022, 9:40 AM (13 days ago) to CastrolContactUs Hello, was letting you know on your oil selector it is telling me the wrong weights of oil recommended for my car. 2007 toyota camry with the 2.4L engine. It says to use 0w-20 oil. Giving alternatives such as 10w-30 which is way off. Have attached a screenshot for reference. This engine really requires the 0w-20 oil as it has variable valves, and really needs the oil to flow as fast as possible on startup, using other weights increases wear on engine. Next was trans fluid. The site recommends Dex 6 but in my book it says to use toyota ws auto trans fluid and using other fluids will cause vibration, wobble, wear etc. Normally I would think its a gimmick to get you to buy toyota fluid, but it was actually way cheaper at the dealership than castrol, so i have no idea why you wouldnt want to use it. What a nightmare I wish castrol would update the recommendations and I wish I had my book at time of sale! | |||||
| Which SUV should I buy | 16Relevance | 2 years ago | boss-flex | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I live in the Caribbean and I am interested in a five-seater Japanese SUV with paddle shifters and a nice sound system. The two I am interested in are the new right hand drive Deep Crystal blue Mica Mazda CX-5 Gasoline Engine 25S Sport Appearance 4wd SUV from Mazda Japan, or what I prefer the new right-hand drive Heat blue Lexus RX 350 F Sport with a Dark Rose Genuine Leather interior from Lexus Japan. I really like the Lexus because it has my favorite exterior and interior color combination for an automobile. However, I know Scotty generally discourages persons from buying vehicles with a turbo charged engine and the Lexus comes with a 2.4 liter turbo charged engine. I do not mind the price of the Lexus, however, because it has the colors that I want plus dual exhausts and fog lights. The Mazda CX-5 does not have fog lights and it has a darker blue exterior and it does not have a red leather interior. However, I will like to know if the Mazda CX-5 is a better buy in terms of it not coming with a turbo charged engine and presumably having better predicted reliability as a result of this (and being cheaper to buy). I basically want to know which one will be the better vehicle to buy with me living in the Caribbean and my tastes and so on and why? | |||||
| Low Coolant | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | NickWantsAToyota | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty, Every now and then I check my coolant level in the reservoir tank. It keeps going down. I’ve pressure tested it and it held at 20psi for so long. I use that exhaust leak test test (blue liquid kit) and it stayed blue. I don’t see any noticeable leaks. What else can I do or is this normal to expel excess coolant? I’m going to try the blue liquid one more time but let the car run for an hour or so and see. I want to make sure the head gasket is good or bad because my extended warranty is almost up. Thanks | |||||
| OBDII Port | 16Relevance | 6 years ago | Chgo_Bus_Driver | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have an '08 Town and Country minivan with 112,000 miles. I bought a blue Driver to read my check engine light code but my blue driver won't connect and it seems like the OBDII port is loose. I know the blue driver works because I tested it on my other cars. Could the OBDII be going bad on the car? Please advise and Thank you in advance. | |||||
| RE: Poured wrong coolant into newly-purchased car | 16Relevance | 6 years ago | Kaizen | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| If it was blue I’d say you have a better chance of being ok doing nothing. Since Honda/Acura usually use the blue. But since it is yellow, I recommend at least draining the reservoir and filling it up with the Asian blue coolant for Honda. Often times, in manuals, it will say if you are in a bind, you can use water or almost any coolant. But make sure to drain and fill it ASAP. TBH, I don’t think you need to drain and flush, unless it was a totally incompatible coolant. (Super Tech seems universal, but you’d have to compare the labels of Super Tech amd the Honda recommended coolant.) | |||||
| '17 Corolla paint peeling bad! What can be done? | 16Relevance | 3 years ago | stos | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello, My mother in SC bought her 2017 Toyota Corolla SE in blue Crush Metallic brand new, now with 95k miles, and when I went to visit recently, I noticed it has some pretty bad paint issues! I did a quick Google search which shows many others with the same problem and almost identical peeling. It also shows that Toyota will likely not do anything! Several photos here. Any suggestions, Scotty? PS: Judging by the severity it's likely been going on for the last few years, and I wish it was caught sooner (almost 7 years is a long time and 95k miles is a lot of miles). I told her to speak with the dealer she bought it from and to submit a ticket to Toyota corporate, but judging by others who have had this problem, I doubt they'll do anything. I've always loved and stood by Toyota vehicles, but an issue like this makes me skeptical to buy one again... | |||||
| 2008 Cadillac DTS w/ U0100, C0895 and U0140 trouble codes | 16Relevance | 3 years ago | cursingfish | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty,Our 2008 Cadillac DTS, with 108,000 miles, automatic, has occasional hiccups/misfires. The blue Driver scanner shows U0100, C0895 and U0140 codes. The blue Driver scanner says these are fairly common codes for Cadillacs.As the car seemed to be braking un-evenly, I took it to a local mechanic. He said the brake pads and rotors needed to be changed. He didn't find a misfire in his scanner driving it around. He said that the communication/low voltage codes were pretty much impossible to fix until something actually broke.The car had new plugs, and 1 new coil installed about 20,000 miles ago at the dealer. 2 years ago the fuel pump and fuse box were replaced, and the battery was replaced when it just wouldn't start. blue Driver suggested a few repairs, perhaps a new alternator, BCM or ECM. Other than regular maintenance, the car has not had a new alternator or coils. I am not a fan of throwing parts at cars. I have no idea if replacing plugs, coils, alternator, and two computers will fix the hiccups and computer codes.Is it time to get rid of this car before it leaves us stranded? | |||||
| Answer to: 1991 F150 - won't start with key | 16Relevance | 4 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Grab a test light and clip its alligator clip onto the Negative battery post clamp. Pull off the Red/Lt blue wire connector from the starter relay. Hold the test light's probe on the metal terminal in that wiring connector and have somebody hold the ignition key in the Start position. The test light will light up if it's getting power like it's supposed to when the key is in the Start position. If it isn't getting Power, put the connector back on and go under the dash to access the ignition switch. Bring a straight pin and the test light with you. Clip the test light's alligator clip onto a good ground point under the dash. Pierce the wire insulation on the Red/Lt blue wire going to the ignition switch connector with the straight pin to make contact with the wire strands inside. Hold the test light's probe against the pin as you turn the key to the Start position. If the ignition switch is good the test light will light up. If the ignition switch is faulty it won't. If the test light lit up there, then go down to the Backup/Neutral Safety Switch on the transmission. Clean up a good Ground point and attach the test light's alligator clip to it. Pierce the White/PNK wire with the straight pin like you did before. Hold the test light probe to the pin and have somebody hold the ignition key in the Start position. If power is reaching the Backup/Neutral Safety Switch from the Ignition Switch the test light will light up. If you have Power there, then pierce the Red/Lt blue wire with the straight pin and have somebody hold the ignition key in the Start position. If the Backup/Neutral Safety Switch (and/or it's wiring connector) is good the test light will light up. If it's faulty, it won't. ((you don't disconnect the wiring connector for this but the picture on the right shows the wires pretty good so I posted it)) Here's a look at how the Backup/Neutral Safety Switch (MLPS) works inside. Power comes in on the WHT/PNK wire from the ignition switch. When the transmission is in Park or Neutral the internal switch makes contact and power goes out on the Red/Lt BLU wire to the Starter Relay When you're done get some liquid electrical tape and dab over any places you pierced with the straight pin to prevent corrosion from getting into the wires | |||||
| RE: [Request advice for first private used car buying] 2012 Honda accord(LX), 71K mi | 16Relevance | 6 years ago | Kerem | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| He says its a blue title, which according to google search engine results means its a salvage title | |||||
| Answer to: What cooland should I put in my Honda | 16Relevance | 6 years ago | fernandobb6 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I'd use blue Asian coolant in a Honda. It better than the green stuff You can use Honda dealerships version or you can can get Zerex blue Asian or Peak blue Asian coolant version at local auto parts stores | |||||
| Answer to: Blue smoke coming out of my truck | 15Relevance | 2 months ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Under what conditions? | |||||