I bought AGFS32PM plugs but found that they are substantially different than the AWFS32PM plugs that were originally installed. Are they compatible anyway?
Who is the manufacturer of these plugs?
Motorcraft.
Yep.
Yes. I have used them twice in a 2001 GT 4.6 SOHC with no problem. Motorcraft SP-493 or equivalent is what my repair manual calls for. Gap 0.054 inch. They come pre gapped.
They don't look the same. The new plug has twice as many threads as the original. So I'm concerned about the new plugs going too far into the cylinder. There was another plug that came up in my search that matched with SP-493 but it was different also. The owners manual specifies SP-493. I guess I'll have to talk to the local Ford dealer to make sure I get the right plugs. I have photos of one of the OEM plugs that I took out but I don't know how to post it here.
See this for interpretation -
http://jimsprojectgarage.weebly.com/motorcraft-spark-plug-information.html
The plugs were redesigned to prevent the random projectile effect.
However there are motorcraft bootlegs for some reason, fordtechmakeuloco has a few videos on spotting counterfeits.
Yeah i saw that video. Mine came in the latest packaging and they match what was shown in his video. Since a set of 8 is around $20 I don't know how anyone could counterfeit them and make any significant money.
Yea I'm lost on that as well. My best guess is ultra cheap chinese copies, probably cost them less than .50 a pop to make over there using only the worst of materials.
The AWSF32PM plugs were replaced by Motorcraft with the AGSF32PM plugs around 2003 I think. They have more threads to accommodate redesigned heads that were supposed to address the blow out issue as mentioned by @russelljkelly81. The length of the plug that goes into the cylinder is the same. The stop is the tapered part under the hex head. I don't think the older style are made anymore.
The one on the left is the one that I took out yesterday. The one on the right looks like the new ones that I got. The local Ford dealer says that the new plugs are the right ones even though there's more threading on it. And you're right about the original plug being obsolete and no longer available. I'm not sure if I should use anti-seize because it gives invalid torque. Some say that a thin film would be OK while others say that todays plugs don't need it.
Those are probably the original plugs you're replacing. They last a long time. I've heard as much as 100k miles, I did mine around 90k if I recall. The new plugs work fine.
I have heard many different things about torque and anti seize. Scotty says not to use anti seize on spark plugs. I did and torqued them to 15 ft.-lbs. You have to be your own judge on that. I don't want to strip the aluminum threads or get a plug stuck so I did what I did. I'll recheck them when the weather warms up.
I also have some information about the TPS reading 20%. If you're still interested I'll put the info with your original question.
It's a few hours later and I got the plugs replaced. I didn't put any anti-seize on the plugs. I torqued them to 20 lb-ft (or is it ft-lb - can't seem to get the UOM memorized). The original plugs were still gapped OK and there was no sign of oil fouling. So, I went for a 10 mile drive at highway speeds and nothing blew up. It seems that the car idles more smoothly now. So I'm happy with this maintenance effort. 72,500 miles on the car.
Yeah I'd like to see what you have on that TPS readout.
From what I've read, using anti-seize and torquing to 15 ft-lb should be OK. That would be the recommended 25% reduction in torque setting. I can see how a lubricant on the threads could cause you to over-torque.
I don't care what anybody says, I use anti seize compound on spark plugs and have not had a problem in 50 years doing it.
From what I've read, the current crop of spark plugs have some kind of metal alloy on the threads that keeps them from seizing. The vendors say that if you do use anti-seize on a new plug then you need to reduce the torque setting on your tool by 25% or else you'll end up over-torquing which could result in messed up threading. But if you haven't had any problems with using anti-seize........