Hi, i recently purchased a 2005 acura txs automatic car. After buying the car i had issues where the car would go into limp mode/safe mode where the car will have the blinking D light. At the beginning during limp mode it would not let me reverse. And also from my dads reporting it sometimes would lock him into one gear. We thought it we had to replace the whole transmission and that the owner who we bought it didnt tell us about the issue ahead of time. Check engine light car on when we brought it home. p0985.
After draining the transmission fluid (we suspected it was low because of the dip stick and hope new trans fuild would help) and putting new honda oem fuild in... the car would still go into limp mode with flashing D lights. After we put the new trans fluid in we never experienced any issues in shifting or surges or slips or grinding noises when driving it. Only sometimes after clearing the code does the car go into limp mode again. Turning off the car plus waiting some time and starting it again would stop the flashing D lights. Driving it after gave no issues...
We pull a p0985 code indicating that there was a short in the Solenoid E slot of the transmission. Bought the oem replacement part of that solenoid and replaced it according to acura official car repair manual. I also tested the wires of resistance and it was within range. Tested the old solenoid and it clicked and it's resistance was also in range. I figured that it wasnt actually the issue of a failed solenoid. Still i kept the new part on since i couldnt return after installation plus it wasnt expensive.
The code was persisting still for weeks (p0985). Couldnt get it to go away. After some time of internet surfing i ran into Mr kilmer's video of spraying the pcm female port out and even the male connectors with CRC electrical cleaner. I made sure to unplug the battery and kept it off for 1 hour so any liquid that remained can evaporate.
Plugged everything back in... drove for over 100 miles... no code popped up. Was happy until one afternoon the check engine popped up again.
This time was another code for the P0706 which was for the neutral safety Position sensor. I am having my doubts about this code being correct. What i have done so far is unplugged the connector and inspected it for cuts in the wires and followed it up. No cut wires. I measured for continuity and for voltage when unplugged... all had 4.8ish volts... and had continuity to ground. At this point I don't think its the sensor that is busted. I could start the car when in park and neutral but cannot start it in any other position which is what it should do. Unplugging it of course didnt left my car start. Im soon going to put a new position sensor in just in case... but i doubt it will solve my issue.
I have no idea what the problem could be. The transmission shifts very good. No clanking or weird noises beside when i shift from park into Reverse or drive but thats normal. There arent any slips or surges when i push the accelerator. I can feel the car shift from one gear to another smoothly and no harsh jerks. The manual shift system also works and allows me to shift into all 5 gears.
I have also tested the ground voltages when the car is off. From the transmission block to the red battery terminal with multimeter it was pretty much the same voltage dead on compared to what the battery was putting out. Same when i put ground lead to the engine, alternator, ps pump.
Testing ground when the car was turned on I noticed that my cars ground voltage was ever so slightly higher than what my battery voltage gave. For instance I would get 14.35 on the battery directly but when I take the black wire to ground it on engine block or trans block it would be like 14.39. I don't know if this affects anything??? Its kinda weird that it would slightly increase like that. Where is the extra voltage coming from? I tested this for all my other cars in the house and none of them gave a higher reading when the car is turned on. Am i on to something or this okay?
I have high doubts that my transmission has gone bad. I dont know why spraying crc electrical cleaner help the code p0985 go away and caused another code p0706 to show up.
Could it be a bad PCM? or something else? what else can i do?
Ps: according to the acura tsx diagnostic manual both of these codes are electrical issues and not of the mechanical nature. The wiring harness on the pcm connectors, all 5, seems intact and no damaged wires.
Please help, i cannot smog it and the registration is due in september. Thus, i cannot transfer title. Im in california.
If I were you, I would take the car to a mechanic who knows Acura transmission and have him check it.
Thats what i am afraid of. Just quickly talking to the mechanics that my dad frequents, they all jump the gun and say its a bad transmission.
I really dont have the symptoms of a bad transmission.
I will replace the safety neutral switch today. Maybe the old one had bad metal contacts on the inside and the pcm throws the p0706. Or i could just open it and clean the contacts. Hopefully the car is throwing codes that actually exisit.
well it turns out it was the neutral safety switch. Replaced it and the code went again. Glad I refused to believe that it was a bad transmission. The persistent p0985 even after I changed the solenoid would have triggers my transmission mechanic to automatically assumed I need a new one. That one was a mystery to me still. Maybe it was really bad contacts with the pcm. I guess my car really threw a code that it had issues with. Passed smog and finally transferred vehicle.
@yaser do you by any chance know where to get the replacement solenoids im assuming its the internal ones inside the transmission i cant find them and my car will go into limp mode but sometimes it drives completely normal and i believe its the internal shift solenoids
@yaser do you by any chance know where to get the replacement solenoids im assuming its the internal ones inside the transmission i cant find them and my car will go into limp mode but sometimes it drives completely normal and i believe its the internal shift solenoids
This topic is over 3 years old and the person you are asking has not been active here in over 2 years and very unlikely to see or respond to your inquiry.
Please note that instead of "hijacking" someone else's old thread it would be best for you to post a new topic of your own, giving all vehicle details as indicated in the posting instructions as well as a clear and concise description of your car problem and the diagnostic steps that have been taken so far. Thank you.