2006 Toyota Avalon XLS V6 Automatic Transmission bought as a used car off of lot 5 years ago 166,653 miles now, 112,000 when bought. I'm throwing codes po300, po301, po306, po351-356. I have changed plugs, coils, alternator, battery, map sensor, O2 sensor, thermostat. Problem is, when I drive car, it gets warm and dies. after it cools off, it starts and runs again until it gets warmed up(thermostat opens up). Car is very sluggish taking off, shutters when I get to a cruising speed, around 45mph. shuttering calms when i give it more gas. can cruise at 75mph, but if the engine gets warmed up, running over 5 min, it'll stall out. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I'm throwing codes po300, po301, po306, po351-356.
See troubleshooting information in the site FAQ as well as the links below.
https://www.carparts.com/blog/p0351-code-ignition-coil-a-primary-secondary-circuit
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0351
I have changed plugs, coils, alternator, battery, map sensor, O2 sensor, thermostat.
DId those parts test as actually being bad? Did you install OEM parts from a trustworthy source?
Problem is, when I drive car, it gets warm and dies. after it cools off, it starts and runs again until it gets warmed up(thermostat opens up)
You might want to record a live data session while the problem happens to analyze afterwards for clues. (Crank sensors often exhibit that kind of symptom when they start to fail, but you would want to perform a proper diagnosis before replacing parts.)
I didn't have any parts tested after changing them
Chuck is talking about testing parts BEFORE you replace them, instead of guessing, because now you've spent a bunch of money unnecessarily, and you're still not any closer to knowing what the problem is. Find the problem first. Then get parts, if needed. It could be something as simple as a broken wire.
I suggest working through the troubleshooting steps in the links Chuck provided for you. (under the "Possible Solutions" title).
I will yank out the Crankshaft sensor and check that
it's easier to check while it's still in the engine
it might be the charcoal canister. any thoughts on that being the problem?
Again, test it. If there's a problem with the EVAP system (the canister is part of EVAP) , then that will show up as poor fuel pressure. That's something you can measure.
Another thing to consider with that kind of miles, is a plugged up exhaust system. Especially if you're driving around with a misfire a lot.
shutters when I get to a cruising speed,
P0300 means the engine is missing, so raw fuel is going straight through. Not good for it. You really should take it off the road until it's fixed. Check out our FAQ for more info about how to diagnose a misfiring engine.
g. I'm just trying not to hit anybody lol.
You don’t need a camera per se so you don’t have to take your eyes on the road. Before you leave plug in your scan tool go for a ride around town with it plugged in then come back you’ll see all the live data that was recorded.
I didn't have any parts tested after changing them, I just changed them as to what I read might be the problem. really hard to record live since I don't know when it's going to happen, and when it does happen,,, no brakes no power steering. I'm just trying not to hit anybody lol. I will yank out the Crankshaft sensor and check that thx.
Also, I read on the old interweb that it might be the charcoal canister. any thoughts on that being the problem?
@davethewave If your charcoal canister were bad you would likely have trouble filling your gas tank and/or you'd be smelling gasoline fumes. We do not advise just throwing parts at a problem. This wastes time and money and rarely produces a good result. A thorough diagnosis is preferable in order to find the actual problem before replacing parts.