Hi Scotty
I have owned my 2006 toyota solara V6 for about 4 1/2 years
got about 185,000 miles on it and has had it’s share of minor repairs. My question is had a timing belt installed 9 months ago and it started sqweeking
told my guy about it but was working out of state so couldn’t get back to have it checked. My ac was blowing hot air for about 8 months as well. so new timing belt starts making a horrible noise but only when AC is on.
the mechanic told me the compressor was bad but to fix it would be $2600 because he claimed that the condenser and some other parts needed to be replaced as well (charged me$160 to test the cooling system. so my question is why can’t they swap out the compressor? and 2 will the belt snap if the compressor seized up completely? i thought the compressor only engages if it’s turned on . don’t have the $$$ but my buddies at firestone could finance it . i love the pick up this car has and overall would want to keep it running for a while priced some used camry’s and most have over 100 k for my budget . can i drive the solara without fear of the belt snapping at any moment and is it stupid to drop that kind of money in a 25 year old car I paid $8000 for from the dealership not even 5 years ago? I live just outside of Knoxville tennessee and i need something that’s going to last as i currently have an hour commute
thanks for letting me submit a question
just feel that the mechanic has gotten rich off my ignorance
Vic
thanks
Do you mean your serpentine belt makes noise when the A/C is on? That could be a sign of a failing compressor. As long as the clutch disengaged from the compressor, the belt should be fine. If the compressor randomly seizes with the clutch on, it can shred the belt, or at the very least, take it off the engine.
Changing a compressor is a little bit more of an involved job than you might expect. Remaining refrigerant needs recovered, gotta use pulley pullers to get the pulley off, line releases, etc. to disconnect the compressor from the car. Then you gotta replace the accumulator/ receiver dryer, and orifice tube /expansion valve since the system was opened. The condenser is relatively straightforward, on the other hand. They usually bolt up in front of the radiator and can be dropped or lifted out by shifting the radiator. Once all that is done, the system then needs to be placed under vacuum and monitored for a couple hours to make sure it holds. Once it passes the vacuum test, the refrigerant will be added.
A/C work is pretty involved. I learned all of this when I repaired the air conditioner in my 1999 Ford Ranger last year. I saved at least $1000 doing all of the work myself. If you're car savvy, it might be worth trying yourself, but do a lot of research and understand what you're getting into, A/C work can be very dangerous if you're not careful.
The symptoms you have is for a as AC compressor and as you found out, it cost a lot. If you need the AC, you have to replace it. Price around if you plan to fix it.
If you’re up for the drive to Clarksville TN, maybe you can ask Scotty himself to have a look at your car..
