I have a 2007 Honda CRV with 203000 miles that has a laundry list of issues. The VTEC high pressure switch code is on, and in cold weather following cold starts, the car will shudder badly under acceleration with a multitude of lights illuminating on the dash— the VSA Light, triangle warning light, and engine light. This only happens in cold weather and with a restart the car drives perfectly. The other big issue is a blinking drive light that appears occasionally when driving above 60mph. I have been told that it is a torque converter issue, and that replacing the torque converter does not always do the trick as it’s typically related to transmission failure down the line. Is this accurate advice? We were given an estimate of $3700 in repairs with a new (worn) transmission and other parts including axle rods and an AC compressor. Due to these problems and a serious time constraint as far as needing a vehicle, we decided it was time for a new car and I bought a 2013 Camry SE with 95000 miles and the four cylinder. My questions are did I make the right decision, and how should I go about pricing the CRV knowing in good condition it is worth 5000-6000 dollars? I feel a mechanic would make a killing on it if I listed it for sub $2000, as these issues are intermittent and the car drives perfectly most of the time. The blinking Drive light also had no effect on the driving experience. Please advise, and thanks.
Why not just address the VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Circuit High Voltage code and see what happens?
The code is saying that the VTEC solenoid is stuck in the ON position.
Normally you'd check the voltage/ground on the VTEC oil pressure sensor and the solenoid wiring but being a Honda it's probably not a wiring issue.
The part is cheap enough if you buy aftermarket at the auto parts store. Around $75. Not so cheap if you buy it from Honda.
It's bolted on to the engine with just 3 bolts and has 2 wiring connectors. It's an easy "do it yourself" replacement.
Here it is:

I found a Scotty youtube of him switching one of these out.
He's addressing a "low voltage code" but switching it out is the same procedure as for your "high voltage code".
https://youtu.be/hCczf5-RIvE?t=95