Hi please help me if you can. I own a 97 Toyota Camry 2.2 and after changing the IAC, Cam & crank sensors it still keeps stalling. Replaced the cam & crank sensors today with a friend who's a mechanic with 20 odd years of experience, suggested to me the MAP sensor is bad after physically inspecting and testing the part. Car idled like a dream multiple times without it shutting off it's self, left to cool down fully & was having the same problem as before. Fuel pump is kicking in strong so know it's not that, he checked it as well. Sometimes runs for a bit with foot to the floor but not always, risky changing gears as an automatic & did stall just driving normally (no signal?). In the UK it's a rare car, not many sold when new unlike Corolla's where there's one on every street. Found an aftermarket seller saying 89420-06040 will work, can only get OE ones imported from USA and they're used parts. OE number on Camry 89420-33020. Connector still has right hose connector & 3 pin connector, just need it so the ECU will allow the car to run right. OBD1 in Europe till 2001 jump wired the port, no codes just engine light before starting & stalling, no engine light while running. It has 51k miles & very clean, been restoring it and never welded, pretty clean car. Just been running odd for months now if at all. Like Scotty Kilmer I want it to last, not long done all brakes, springs and shocks so rides like a dream, when it runs. Want to enjoy driving it in the nice weather before winter hits till next spring, please help me. I appreciate you reading this and any help I'm incredibly grateful for. Omg I typed a lot, Cheers. If I've broken a Toyota then it takes a total idiot to do that, hoping I haven't.
Okay it's an old car and his old ones have timing belts on them if they stretch that's exactly what happens I'd start by putting a new timing belt on a line in it but of course a zillion things can cause weird problems in a car that old
Hi Scotty thank you so much for the advice, I really appreciate it. I'll get him to check the timing belt for any signs of fatigue, funny enough I had the timing belt & water pump along with all of the rubber belts replaced 2 years ago (1400 miles). Fuel in it is E5 which was treated with Sta-bil, though does run on private driveway during winter to stop the brakes or anything else getting stuck. Hoping it's nothing inside the ECU (leaky electrolytic capacitor) though seen some go bad causing high idle (2k rpm), which mine doesn't seem to be doing.
Hi Scotty thank you so much for the advice, I really appreciate it. I'll get him to check the timing belt for any signs of fatigue, funny enough I had the timing belt & water pump along with all of the rubber belts replaced 2 years ago (1400 miles). Fuel in it is E5 which was treated with Sta-bil, though does run on private driveway during winter to stop the brakes or anything else getting stuck. Hoping it's nothing inside the ECU (leaky electrolytic capacitor) though seen some go bad causing high idle (2k rpm), which mine doesn't seem to be doing.