Hello Scotty and everyone,
I have an 08 Lexus GS350 and I made a video of my alternator making klinkity, klankity, klonkity sounds:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNW5DhcBeOE
I purchased an OEM alternator, was that the right move vs repairing it?
Should I replace the serpentine belt(it uses a timing chain)as well and if so, should I purchase third party like Gates and Continental or stick to OEM?
Best regards,
Mike B.
I purchased an OEM alternator, was that the right move vs repairing it?
Generally, you can't really repair alternators yourself. There's a voltage regulator that is practically always internal to the alternator itself these days. My' 79 Pontiac has an internal voltage regulator, and it's 45 years old.
Should I replace the serpentine belt(it uses a timing chain)as well and if so, should I purchase third party like Gates and Continental or stick to OEM?
The serpentine belt has no bearing as to whether or not the timing is chain or belt driven -they're completely separate mechanisms. If your serpentine belt breaks, the engine will still run normally, but it will start overheating because coolant isn't being pumped through the engine anymore. A worn belt will be cracked on the underside. If it's cracked, replace it. I use OEM belts on my Ranger, because I know it's going to fit properly.
that sounds like a tensioner rattling
I thought that too as the belt or the tensioner setup is known for being the most common... ...wow, I already purchased the alternator!
I forgot to mention one detail, that the battery indicator was going on and off, mostly it would stay on-indicating the battery was not being charged and this has been going on from since this past Sunday or last week Thursday, gradually it would stay on longer . After the loud clinkity sounds, it would it would catch and charge/power everything every now and then, with the mechanical sounds and then uncatch with slight whining, clinkity, clankity and clonkity sounds. So last night after work the battery indicator stayed off for a little while but I managed to drop my boss and cow worker off, it stayed on for the whole ride home and when I was about to park the gauges started flickering and jittering. The electronic power steering went out, it was extremely hard to turn, the screen went off so, no rear view camera while parking or reversing or other features, the "Check VSC" and some other check component messages started displaying-indicating that no power was being sent to them-it will do this if there is no power. The only thing that was working was the hazard lights I believe and I think that started to diminish.
Ensure both battery cables and terminals are clean and tight. Sometimes, they can wiggle loose.
You're running out of power from the battery, so the systems are starting to shut down.
If you have a battery charger, hook it up to the battery.
Your tensioner could be why your alternator charges and discharges based on load. When you rev the engine higher, the tensioner must slightly resist the revving to keep the belt taught. If you rev up the engine and your tensioner is weak, it won't hold true to the pulleys anymore, causing the belt to slip. Slipping belt=not enough tension to pull the alternator pulley.
I checked the alternator using a THINKCAR battery tester cable device, it reads:
"Charging voltage is low, ripple voltage is not normal.
Name
Diode Ripple Value: 589 mV
On-Load Voltage: 11.35 V
No-Load Voltage: 11.41 V"
"mV"-millivot and "V"-Volt are the Unit measurements.
For the battery, the tester displayed, "Please test after battery is charged.
Battery Power SOC: -0%
Battery Voltage: 11.80 V
Battery Life: 26%
Measured Starting Current: 358.00 CCA
Input Standard: CCA
Input Rating: 750 CCA
Internal Resistance: 7.73 mΩ"
Please let me know!
I thought that too as the belt or the tensioner setup is known for being the most common... ...wow, I already purchased the alternator!
You can return the alternator and order an OEM tensioner.
Take the belt off and spin the alternator pulley. It should glide smoothly and not hang up or wiggle. If it wiggles or hangs, the alternator pulley is bad.
You can also help determine if the alternator is bad, start the car, let it run, and get a multimeter. Set it to Volts DC and touch the positive and negative terminals with the multimeter. It should be between 13 volts and 14.7 volts, depending on how drained the battery is. If it's more than 14.7 volts, replace the alternator, it's overcharging.
I forgot to mention one detail, that the battery indicator was going on and off, mostly it would stay on-indicating the battery was not being charged and this has been going on from since this past Sunday or last week Thursday, gradually it would stay on longer . After the loud clinkity sounds, it would it would catch and charge/power everything every now and then, with the mechanical sounds and then uncatch with slight whining, clinkity, clankity and clonkity sounds. So last night after work the battery indicator stayed off for a little while but I managed to drop my boss and cow worker off, it stayed on for the whole ride home and when I was about to park the gauges started flickering and jittering. The electronic power steering went out, it was extremely hard to turn, the screen went off so, no rear view camera while parking or reversing or other features, the "Check VSC" and some other check component messages started displaying-indicating that no power was being sent to them-it will do this if there is no power. The only thing that was working was the hazard lights I believe and I think that started to diminish.
Please let me know
3rd time now. Follow Justin’s instructions. Check your belt and tensioner and alternator pulley.
I'll do so, I didn't mean to be annoying...