I have a 2004 Dodge Intrepid with 158627 miles. Occasionally it will not start. It won't turn over. No cranking. No sound outside of a buzzing type of noise. All of the normal lights come on when I try to start the car. The starter was replaced about 2 years ago.
Tap on the starter with a hammer while someone holds the key on start. If it turns over, you need a new starter. If it doesn't, check your battery connections, especially the ground for looseness and corrosion. Have your battery and alternator tested.
Even if it has power? Everything comes on and works, it just won't start. Seems like the power is not getting to the starter.
Even if it has power, yes. Try it.
Will do. Thoughts on it possibly being the ignition switch?
There's several things which could cause that intermittent failure.
I'm a lazy man by nature. I don't like doing any more work than I have to and so with starter issues I always go to the starter relay.
Here's why. If I'm working on a NO CRANK condition, and I remove the starter relay from the underhood fuse box, and use a little piece of wire to jump starter relay terminals 30 & 87 and the vehicle cranks, I know my starter is good. I know my battery is good. I know my cable connections from Battery Positive to the starter and from Battery Negative to the engine (Ground) are good and that the Power wire (from starter relay terminal 87) to my starter solenoid is good.
That narrows it down considerably and I didn't even have to break out my tool box yet.
I did it with a 2 inch piece of wire (if you don't have a piece of wire you could even use a paper clip instead).
If the vehicle didn't crank, then I'd have to get to my toolbox and grab my test light because I'd need to make sure there's battery voltage at Starter Relay socket terminal 30.
If there's power there, then I'd begin checking that list of stuff I mentioned above.
If the vehicle did crank, then it's time to consider either a faulty starter relay and if that isn't the problem, to check the "Control Side" terminals of the Starter relay sockets. Sockets 85 & 86.
Because if you jumped relay sockets 30 & 87 and the starter cranked, AND you've confirmed that your starter relay is good and there's no problem with the terminals of the starter relay socket (corrosion, damage by excessive heat ((melted terminal)) then it's a Starter Relay "control side" issue.
So on yours, Starter Relay socket 85 gets a Ground from the PCM when the Park/Neutral switch on the transmission is in Park or Neutral.
Starter Relay socket 86 gets Power when the Ignition Switch is held in the Start Position.
These can be tested with a test light.
So instead of the long-winded explanation let's look at the starter relay sockets and see what needs to be there when you turn the key to Start.
You'll use a cheap ($10) test light and there's plenty of youtubes on how to do this.
Relay socket 85 has to be provided a Ground in Park or Neutral. (if not suspect the Park/Neutral switch or its wiring)
Relay socket 86 has to be provided Power with the key in Start. (If not suspect the ignition switch or its wiring)
Relay socket 30 has to have Power always. (if not, inspect the terminals on the starter relay fuse for corrosion or heat damage)
You are the winner. It was a faulty starter relay. Thanks a million!!!