car used to run good (many years with check engine light on showing code p0171), mechanic changed powerbrake booster then problem started as described below!
Toyota solara 2000 (v6, SLE), (147000 miles)had no major issue with engine or anything run like charm with check engine on for many years, moved to different state (800 miles on same car), but failed emssion test (cause of check engine light, else run good as usual), showed mechanic code p0171 poped up (mechanic did some test), suggested changing power brake booster cause of hissing sound leak. He replaced the brake boster, Now problem started, so after driving 1mile or 1.5 mile, car slows down despite of revving engine and comes to a stop, then have to turn off key let car sit (cool perhaps, guessing) for some half to 1 hour start ignition and drives again for 1 to 1.5 mile starts slowing down (losing power) and comes to stop despite of revving/accerating (rpm indicator/pointer on acceleration is fine), it neither reverse or go forward on accelerating. I called mechanic (came after 3 hours) he looked and said that i forget to release hand brake bla..bla..bla.., drove the car to my garage and went away (i guess drove one mile, did not pay attention). Again next morning drove the car for 1.5 to 2 mile same issue (as described above) ended up at the side of the road, had to turn off engine and waited for 1 hours(perhaps that helps equilibrate oxygen supply to engine (guessing), drove back to garage and same issue (thankfully made to garage). Called another mobile mechanic (lost trust in first one) he inspected saw a hose not fitted back (i am not sure if that was missed by first mechanic), made the difference as it drove for 1.5 mile like charm and second mechanic said problem solved went away. Next day now after driving for 2.5 mile (this time atleast one mile improvement, lol) same issue happened. How can a car running so smoothly, after changing brake booster (bought new one from autozone) suddenly comes up with this new kind of issue?? Any suggestions before I take it finally to dealer perhaps. Thanks a million. {black}:idontknow:
Find a good mechanic.
Check this link:
It sounds like your transmission fluid is low or degraded (from excessive heat) or perhaps the filter/screen is clogged.
Check the trans fluid with the engine warmed up and running.
I can't imagine between 2 mechanics they wouldn't have checked the level.
Maybe examine your transmission fluid.
1st, smell the fluid. If it has a burnt odor, the transmission has overheated and the fluid is oxidized.
2nd, do a "blotter test". Place a couple of drops of the ATF on a paper towel and wait about 30-seconds or so.
If the fluid has spread out and is red or light brown in color, the fluid is good.
If the fluid does not spread out and is dark in color, the fluid is oxidized. In this case, a fluid and filter change.
Good/Acceptable:
Nobody would recommend changing the trans fluid in a car with 147,000 miles if it's never been changed before but if it's been degraded you really don't have any choice. (I wouldn't go for the flush at your mileage)
Transmission fluid looks good. Any thoughts on possible manifold/ or other vaccum leakage without showing engine light on. Or perhaps, some vaccumme line pipe (while installing power break booster) being missed connecting back to proper hose (should this happen does engine light comes on?). Or is there possibility of brake booster related automatic brake activation (mechanic had said brake calipers etc or brake booster works properly, but i am skeptical at this point, not sure may be my ear ringing but engine noise slowly changes as if its working hard to move, engine oil is good, no leakage etc). Some kind of low hissing sound near engine my friend made me hear (but we are not auto person, to say it for sure, as there is no engine light). Any thoughts?
Transmission fluid looks good. Any thoughts on possible manifold/ or other vaccum leakage without showing engine light on. Or perhaps, some vaccumme line pipe (while installing power break booster) being missed connecting back to proper hose (should this happen does engine light comes on?). Or is there possibility of brake booster related automatic brake activation (mechanic had said brake calipers etc or brake booster works properly, but i am skeptical at this point, not sure may be my ear ringing but engine noise slowly changes as if its working hard to move, engine oil is good, no leakage etc). Some kind of low hissing sound near engine my friend made me hear (but we are not auto person, to say it for sure, as there is no engine light). Any thoughts? already spent $4000 on this car for gasket change, alternator, tierod, exhaust flex welding ( for rusting or something mechanic said at auto-repair shop), changed bunch of things, battery, sterring fluid leakage, ( later during state inspection by another auto-mechanic made me change complete engine/motor mounting (i was though not sure if that was needed as a month ago thorough inspection in another state by menieke mechanic did not mentioned suggesting it), disk brakes changed in pairs etc.. had been doing regulary oil change on every 3-4000 mile engine oil change at jeffy lube or valvoline for past 5 years...
Sounds like your converter is clogged. Runs fine until it builds up exhaust pressure, loses power. Sits pressure bleeds down etc. Drill a few small holes in the pipe before the cat, see if it drives better. If so it or something in the exhaust is clogged. You can plug the holes you drilled with a sheet metal screw and muffler epoxy.
Hissing is probably the pressure bleed off.
UPdate on this posting: I forgot my password/cant log in to my original above post: Therefore update status on my solara car:
Checked engine oil and transmission oil all were fine in color. Went to one auto repair shop told them the detail, without looking at car they suggested repair for transmission and referred to one another shop specialized in transmission. This did not convinced my understanding/gut feeling. So decided to take car slowly (stopping cooling engine and restarting/driving) to another autoshop nearby (as car would stop after driving for a couple of miles or so) though not fancy like the previous one and looked bit messy (so was hesitant at first). A mechanic showed up, i told him everything in detail, no check engine light (may be because during brake booster change deleted by that very first mobile mechanic) bla..bla..bla..as previously above mentioned; then this mechanic took time and told me to leave the car for the day and he will work on it once he get time, so left the car. In the evening went to shop car was repaired and Guess what: he did was Regulate/adjust/bleeding of brake booster and charged 190 dollars. The car got fixed and ran well. This was great news for me as everything was sorted out from such a long hassle. Then drove the car fine for all along and check engine light came back. I was not worried about check engine light as car was driving fine like before changing brake booster. This code P0446 was there about 2 years back as well, drove few thousands of miles despite of it, so didnt worry much. Then after a while out of curiosity gave obd reader testing and showed P0446 code. Now out of curiosity thought of using cataclean; bought about a gallon of it from amazon at around 35 bucks. Used half of it in 14 gallon of fuel and drove around. The check enginge light didnot go. So erased the code, added more cataclean around 1.5 litre of cataclean and filled remaining tank with gas. After driving 50 miles, the check engine light did come back and had the same code p0446. Well, now I think i will take the car to this latest mechanic for repair and see what happens...
@mountainmanjoe
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The main vacuum hose from the intake manifold to the brake booster sounds like it looses its seal as the car warms up. Either that or the booster from AutoZone is defective.
