Hey Scotty, your the work you've done online is a great help to anyone learning from you and I hope you cover more cars and problems in the future.
I have a question for you about my 2007 ford Explorer xlt v6 4.0. My brake light switch keeps going out and I have to keep replacing the thing. When the brake light switch doesn't work my car doesn't let people know when I'm pushing the brakes (obviously) but my overdrive, my cruise control, once my air stopped blowing, it always stops my gear selector from working because it doesn't tell the gear shift interlock that I'm braking. So when the switch goes out I have to use a stick to push the solenoid in order to put the car in gear. When I replace the switch everything works again. Though, sometimes not everything is dysfunctional, usually it takes a while after the brake light switch went out for the overdrive and cruise control to stop turning on. This problem has costed me lots of money and time. I've had this problem looked into by several mechanic shops and they all tell me something different and say they fixed it but it was never fixed. After throwing money at the problem, researching, and other measures I've taken to get this thing fixed haven't worked. I'm a young guy and just trying to make a living and I need my car to work. I think you might be my only hope to fix this problem.
I bought a scan tool online and the scan tool tells me the same trouble codes when I scan it. Even after the battery was disconnected and reconnected it tells me there's a charging problem ( my battery is a new Motorcraft battery, my alternator is fine and, voltage is always the same). The other code that pops up is an abs code. I've had these codes since I bought the car last year from a private seller. It had been sitting most of its life but regularly serviced, I test drove it and it drove great and had no issues. I had the car inspected by a mechanic before I bought it just to be sure and the mechanic told me the codes were just old and didn't mean anything. He said nothing was wrong with the car and the milage (42,000 miles) was the true milage. I don't dispute the milage but there's definitely something going on with my car. I've had it for over a year and my current milage is 53,000.
I would really appreciate your help on this because honest and competent mechanics are impossible to find where I live. Once I know the problem I'll probably take my car back to one of the shops and helicopter over them while they check the real source of the problem.
Thanks a bunch Scottie,
Jeremy.
What are the codes? With the vehicle off, the battery voltage should be about 12.75v. With the vehicle idling, it should be about 14.5v. What are you getting?