Hello I bought the car and only after that I realized that it consumes 18 liters of gasoline per 100 km...
I changed his engine oil, gear oil, air filter, cleaned the maf sensor, cleaned and calibrated the throttle. Consumption dropped to 11 liters per 100 km Soon I want to change plugs and fuel filter, what else can I try to improve the situation?
In addition to this I have 2 strange phenomena...
1. When I open the fuel tank it sounds like it's inhaling air as if it's in a vacuum inside... Someone told me it could be a purge valve in the EVAP canister or the EVAP canister being fully saturated with gasoline fumes and gas clogged itself.
2. When I drive on a highway at a constant speed (foot gently touches the gas just to maintain the speed) Then when I start to add gas little by little, you can see the throttle slowly climbing up to 2 and then jumps what is this and why does it happen?
Video:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w2K6S_OXGOLR7TZr_H4XnG58L7_rQpSk/view?usp=drivesdk
When I open the fuel tank it sounds like it's inhaling air as if it's in a vacuum inside... Someone told me it could be a purge valve in the EVAP canister or the EVAP canister being fully saturated with gasoline fumes and gas clogged itself.
Venting system, not purge. The tank isn't venting, so air cannot get in to replace the fuel that is being used.
it could be solenoid valves, blocked hoses, or the canister. You've got to test them all.
Is there a convenient or simple method to do this or just get to each part more or less in their order or how easy is it to get to them or just go over all of them and check?
In addition, I would be happy if you could refer to the other things
the concept is simple ... air needs to be able to flow. Professionals use a smoke machine. If you don't have one then you could probably use an air compressor, a garden hose ... heck even your mouth.
.
The vent valve is controlled by computer . A professional would use a diagnostic tool to open it. But again it's just a simple device ... a solenoid. You can test it with a 9V battery.
.
If everything is clear and the valve is operating correctly, then maybe the computer is just confused by a bad pressure sensor reading. This is how you troubleshoot. Eliminate one thing at a time.
It's on the vapor canister
I have a vacuum problem inside the fuel tank and the community recommended that I start by cleaning the fuel vapor vent valve...
It seems to be a bit problematic to clean it, is it possible or should the vapor canister be replaced?
You can just replace the Vent Valve. Here's how:
I saw this video and it doesn't seem like the Solenoid can get dirty over time because it doesn't have an outlet...
Do you have an idea where to look for the problem?
The Vent solenoid valve can fail and get stuck in the Closed position
Is it possible to repair or clean it? Or just replace it... I'm just not sure if he is the problem...
it caused damage to the catalytic converter ... I need to replace it ... is it true?
test it and find out
engine shakes in place
one question per topic please, but I suggest you search first.
Bookmark these websites. They're gonna answer most of your questions:
- https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/
- https://www.aa1car.com/
- https://www.youtube.com/user/1aauto/videos
- https://easyautodiagnostics.com/
Thanks, I've read all the posts and I'll slowly try to check everything...
Can the damage be caused by using the vehicle in between?
solenoid valves, blocked hoses, or the canister
Could there be something else?
What about the vent solenoid?
I also see a picture of you on the fuel tank pressure sensor...
What should its value be?
What about the vent solenoid?
A solenoid is something that moves back and forth. It's being used to open and close a valve. Together the are one unit.
Have you heard of wikipedia? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solenoid_valve
I also see a picture of you on the fuel tank pressure sensor...
What should its value be?
The value should be proportional to the pressure in the tank. If you open the cap, the pressure should read atmospheric on a diagnostic tool.
A solenoid is
I know what it is. I meant to ask if he also needs to be checked because you didn't mention him... Regarding the other things, regardless of the evap system, what else can be checked or replaced?
you didn't mention him.
Yes I did. I told you:
The vent valve is controlled by computer . A professional would use a diagnostic tool to open it. But again it's just a simple device ... a solenoid. You can test it with a 9V battery.
then you asked again "What about the vent solenoid?", So I explained it again. I think we have a language barrier.
Start with the advice I gave and use Google to fill in the rest or find a forum in your 1st language.
You're right, my bad I will try to find the problem ...
Question about the injectors Do they need to be changed regularly like an oil filter for example or are they only changed if they don't work well? And how can you tell if they are not working well?
no, injectors are not wear items. It is possible for them to last the lifetime of the vehicle.
If they aren't working well , the engine will not run properly. Dealers have special diagnostic tests they can run (balance test)
I wouldn't worry about that right now. Focus on the EVAP thing first. I'm curious .. did that not trigger your check engine light?
throttle slowly climbing up to 2 and then jumps what is this and why does it happen?
throttle is not climbing to 2. Engine speed is climbing to 2,000 revolutions per minute (RPM).
The jump is probably your transmission downshifting, because the engine cannot provide the power you're asking from it. Or the AC compressor turned on. It's really difficult to tell over all the noise.
Is this something to be concerned about?
Or if I want to accelerate just give more gas and faster?
Another unrelated question, but I don't want to open a new question in the forum...
A few days ago I changed plugs with a mechanic, he put in the ignition coil not in the order he took it out.(Rather, he did not return them to their place...
For example, the ignition coil from cylinder A is returned to cylinder B, etc...)
Is this a problem?
In addition to the problem that I don't remember exactly what he returned to where...
If I'm not mistaken he changed between A and B
downshifting is normal.
One question per post please. It's our rules.
Unable to find the location of fuel vapor vent valve (EVAP) on
honda civic 8th gen
don't post new topics. Please keep all your troubleshooting together. Thank you.
I'm just not sure if he is the problem
Then test it. I already explained to you how:
https://carkiller.com/scottykilmer/qa/high-fuel-consumption-honda-civic/#post-280410
You have a blockage. The valve needs to pass air ... Just put your mouth on it, or a tube, and blow!
Did you check out any of the links I posted for you? For example ...
Or just replace it
maybe. How much does it cost?
Did you check out any of the links I posted for you? For example ...
Yes, I saw, I sat down, maybe there is a simpler way, I think you're right, I'll do it this way
maybe. How much does it cost?
I don't want to know yet 
I will ask you for help.
I have a fuel consumption problem and can't figure out what is causing it.
Some details:
I changed Engine oil + filter Gear oil + filter air filter Plugs Accessory belt + tensioner coolant fuel filter
And in addition, I cleaned the throttle opening and the MAF sensor
After connecting with OBD more information was revealed to me:
fuel trims (IDEL)
SFTRIM -7
LFTRIM -10.2
no misfire
MAF sensor value: ~14 kg/hour
Oxygen sensor: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1RqDu_4o-rQO2B8nZmWEQrpquSG883OCK?usp=drive_link
cat temp: 1200F (After 10-20 minutes of the vehicle being driven in place (in addition, I checked the temp once after driving for 40 minutes and the temp was similar))
please help me!!!
Beyond the fuel prices, I'm afraid of damaging the engine
Second warning. If you double post again you will be banned from the site. Rules are on the front page. Thank you.
I will ask you for help.
I have a fuel consumption problem and can't figure out what is causing it.Some details:
I changed Engine oil + filter Gear oil + filter air filter Plugs Accessory belt + tensioner coolant fuel filter
And in addition, I cleaned the throttle opening and the MAF sensor
After connecting with OBD more information was revealed to me:
fuel trims (IDEL)
SFTRIM -7
LFTRIM -10.2
no misfire
MAF sensor value: ~14 kg/hour
Oxygen sensor: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1RqDu_4o-rQO2B8nZmWEQrpquSG883OCK?usp=drive_link
cat temp: 1200F (After 10-20 minutes of the vehicle being driven in place (in addition, I checked the temp once after driving for 40 minutes and the temp was similar))
please help me!!!
Beyond the fuel prices, I'm afraid of damaging the engine
Can someone please help me?
I feel like I've reached a dead end
Hello,
A week ago I did a valve calibration, I was quite suspicious of them because of noise from the engine and high fuel consumption.
During the calibration, I discovered that many valves were beyond the range that the consumer recommends.
I tuned them all, started the engine, and everything worked, but the fuel consumption is still high in my opinion (the valves calibration reduced the consumption from 14 liters per 100 km to 9 liters per 100 km).
Someone told me that because the valves were not adjusted for a long time it caused damage to the catalytic converter and if I want to see better fuel results I need to replace it not to mention that it probably "chokes" the engine and causes wear.
is it true? Could this make sense?
In addition, maybe I'm exaggerating a bit, but the engine shakes in place like some kind of constant vibrations (not something that comes and goes)
is it normal?
Can you tell if not?
(I can take a video with a glass of water over the engine I realized this is a good method to show the vibrations)
car: honda civic Hatchback 2011 8th gen (fk2- (5 doors)) (AT)
test it and find out
Thanks
This seems to be a possible way...
How can I know what the pressure should be in my car?
And should we be afraid of such a test or take things into account?
In addition, talk in this video and other videos about a lack of power or a delay in power and this is not something that exists in my car...
As for the vibrations, I think it might be related to the fuel problem, so I didn't want to open a new topic...