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How do resolve the "All warning lights on issue"

  

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This is on a 2017 Honda CR-V touring.

When the car is started all warning lights come on.  The system cycles through telling me that at least 10 systems are inoperable.

The car is “driveable” with this condition except for:

  1. The parking brake is either stuck on or stuck off.
  2. Cruise control and other radar involved operations inoperable
  3. Rear tailgate refuses to open
  4. Other possible conditions not noticed like ABS inoperable.

 

This also happened on a 2016 Toyota RAV4! I.E. All warning lights on cruise control doesn't work etc.  Usually after 1 hour of driving.

TL;DR

I was going to blame Honda for having a lousy system that can't diagnose certain conditions but then a similar thing happened to my wife's 2016 Toyota! Being an embedded system developer I looked further into some root causes.  It turns out that modern Cars use the "CAN bus" or "Controller Area Network”  bus.  It  only usees 2 wires so I am speculating that there is some bus contention or interference going on which prohibits the console controller from talking to the peripherals on the CAN bus.

Also , as you know, the ODB2 connector plugs into the CAN bus.

Since this is somewhat common to these cars , I am wondering what you do to isolate the problem.

This is what I did:

Normally when I take a car to the shop it is either maintenance or somewhat simple issue.  In this case I wrote a 3 page word document to give to the dealer.

My rationale is that this is a computer rather than a car issue.  This is what I suggested: (aka rounding up the usual suspects)

  1. Check to see if the car's software needs to be updated (In the case of the Honda it did and allegedly the dealer installed the updates.
  2. Do a load test on the battery.  Doing a Google search indicated that the battery , even though it is "good" may generate these issues.
  3. Similar to the battery , check to see that the battery grounds are well connected and no harness wires are damaged.

Turns out there is a TSB , A18-006, that mentions a software culprit with the solution being to get the car updated via the dealer.

 

If the above did *not* fix the problem , I was going to address the error codes that recur even after we clear the codes.

These were my initial codes:

C0037-3A Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor: Signal Has Too Many Pulses

C1861- 9A Vehicle Spin Detected: Component or System Operating Conditions 9A

C1872- 00 (The Functional Abnormalities Of Vsa Modulator-Control Unit): No Sub Type

C0037-F0 Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor: Manufacturer Defined

U0416-  68 Invalid Data Received From Vehicle Dynamics Control Module: Event Information

B1383 Tail Gate Lock Ratchet switch input Circuit Malfunction

U128D Lost communication with METER (VSP/NE,AT frame)

U0199 Lost communication with P/W (DRLOCKSW,KLDRLOCK frame)

U1281 Lost communication with MICU (MICU frame)

B1829 ATP input failure. VSP exceeding specified value is continued more than for 3 seconds with “ATP ON” or “ATP from OFF to ON”.

These showed later after a reset by disconnecting the battery for 3 minutes:

C0037- 3A Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor: Signal Has Too Many Pulses

C1872-00 (The Functional Abnormalities Of Vsa Modulator-Control Unit): No Sub Type

C0037-F0 Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor: Manufacturer Defined

U0416-  68 Invalid Data Received From Vehicle Dynamics Control Module: Event Information

Right now the problem is in remission for my 2017 Honda.  I am not sure what to do with the Toyota.

What I regret is not purchasing an ODB II reader and noting any codes  that don't show up as warnings.  That would have been helpful.

 

1 Answer
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Posted by: @hrudy

My rationale is that this is a computer rather than a car issue

it's unlikely that 10 modules failed at the same time.

 

Start simple. Have the charging system (battery + alternator) tested. Check all fuses/relays. If it's not that it's likely the wiring. Sometimes rodents or moisture can get into those harnesses.

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