2008 Chevy Aveo5
135000 miles
Manual transmission
The primary problem is the thing is veering to the left when I brake, so I took it to a Firestone where they diagnosed the problem as primarily a bad control arm on the passenger side, but they were recommending that I change both control arms (makes sense), and on further inspection they showed me that the point where the control arm connects to the subframe is pretty badly rusted and should also be replaced. It has been driven in northern Ohio for its whole life, so I suppose that's not surprising.
Considering it is a real hazard, I would have probably just paid them to fix it if they didn't ask for $2000 for the repair, but I refuse to pay that much when I'm sure I can fix it myself if I take the time to do it right. Luckily I just use it for driving around town, so I've just been going slow and being very gentle on the braking and steering.
The only issue is that I am intimidated about changing the subframe/crossmember. For reference, this is the actual part I'm talking about: https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-cross-member-96653535
(URL edited to remove tracking -admin)
Luckily this is small for a subframe, but still, I've never removed such a structural part from a vehicle before, and to be honest I still don't know exactly everything it does.
In addition to this and the control arms, I also decided to order sway bar links and tie rod ends. If I'm doing this much I figure I might as well replace those too. I'm trying to decide if I should replace anything else, like the front struts and rear shocks maybe. I feel every little bump on the road in this thing, but I don't know if that's normal for this car or if these parts would fix that. Nothing looks visibly wrong with them, but maybe it's just time to replace them.
Any advice would be appreciated.
--- update ---
I just need to replace the control arms and subframe (GM part 96653535) to fix the main problem which is that it's veering when I brake. It's a bad control arm on the passenger side, and because the subframe is so rusty I was told I should replace that too. But I am worried about changing a structural part like the subframe with minimal mechanic experience and I want to know if there are any considerations. Is this part holding up other parts in the engine, and if so how can I secure them without special tools? Also, if I want to just replace other suspension parts (might as well if I have to replace the subframe), do I need any special tools? I was thinking of doing the struts, tie rod ends, sway bar links, and maybe rear shocks to hopefully make the thing ride a little better. I feel every bump in the road and anything a little deep like a small pothole makes a loud clunk and is very jarring. I don't see anything visibly wrong with the struts or shocks but maybe it's just time to replace them.
If you hear plastic-y banging noises in the front end when you go over bumps, your strut tower mounts are bad. The strut needs to come out to replace those. Quick struts will minimize disassembly, just get quality models, Scotty recommends KYBs, if they're available for your car, or get OEM parts.
Do NOT try to disassemble a strut assembly without a spring compressor. Car springs are extremely dangerous and can easily kill someone.
Scotty has several videos detailing the replacement of several of your parts in question and he mentions special tools you will need.
Having minimal experience with suspension components, I'd suggest replacing struts, shocks and sway bar links, since those are relatively easy to get at, and they don't affect your alignment. You will need a torque wrench.
Tie rods will throw off your alignment. Study up on those or leave them to a pro. You will need an alignment, regardless.
Being in the rust belt, you will be wrestling with a lot of rusted on parts. I live in southern Ohio, so I deal with rust as well. I cut sway bar links in half with an angle grinder instead of wasting hours trying to break through rust. Make sure the car is level if you go this route. Any leaning of the car places the links in tension, and will send the pieces flying if you cut them.
Don't mess with the subframe unless you know what you're doing. The subframe does what it says. It serves as a structural piece for mounting points for suspension components and sometimes has motor mounts on it as well. It ties the whole front end of the car together. Bang on it with a hammer. If it crumples, it needs replaced. If it still sounds like metal, you're fine. A picture would help us say if it's dangerous.
Good luck.
I actually already bought a subframe from LKQ. Maybe I should have waited on that, but when they had it disassembled at Firestone they showed me the point of connection to the control arm on the passenger side, and to my admittedly non-expert eye it did look pretty bad. Most of the subframe looks ok, but at that particular important point it was covered in rust. I can't really get a good picture of that area without disassembling it again unfortunately. They didn't say I had to replace it right then and there but they were saying it would be better for safety reasons. Of course, they could have just been trying to get more money, but you can't fake that amount of rust.
If I could find a mechanic who would be willing to put the parts I bought on there that would probably be best, but I would still like to save the money if I can, and I also found out after ordering the parts that apparently many mechanics don't like to put on parts that they themselves didn't acquire. I didn't know that until after I ordered them, so I'm not really sure what to do at this point other than fix it myself or just call up local shops. Thing is I'm moving in a month and I won't have much money left after the move as I just bought some land as well, so I kind of have to wait on taking it to any shops.
I have some mechanically skilled friends where I'm moving and they seem confident that we can do this ourselves. None of them are certified auto mechanics, but one of them has fixed a lot of things on vehicles that I would have no idea how to fix, so maybe he can figure it out. If I was on my own I'd probably just keep looking for a shop that would do it, but I'd like to save the money if I can.
In any case, thank you for the tips. I will pass these on and if things start getting dicey I'll probably just try to find a local mechanic who has all the right tools for the job.