There's 3 fuses, 2 relays, and a diode which all have to be working for power to exit through Fuel Pump relay socket 87, through the inertia switch, through the fuel pump selector switch, and finally to one of the fuel pumps.

Here's how it's wired:

So Power is highlighted in Red.

Ground is Green.

The necessary components are outlined in purple.

Your underhood fuses are designated by letters. Check fuse Letters I, O, and U.

If they're good, see if your Horn works and if you can swap the Horn relay with the Fuel Pump Relay and the PCM Power Relay to see if one of those 2 are faulty.

(Just grab a marker and mark them before you remove any of them. Swapping around 3 relays seems simple but you'd be surprised how quickly it turns into a game of "3 Card Monte".

If the "U" fuse keeps frying when you replace it, then replace the PCM Power Diode.

If all that checks out OK then just grab a paper clip or a short piece of wire and jump Fuel Pump Relay sockets 30 and 87. (The relay socket map is on the bottom of the diagram).

If the Fuel Pump runs then you know the wiring, the inertia switch, the selector switch, and the fuel pump are all good.

If everything above checks out OK then you want to determine if the Ground that the PCM is providing to the Fuel Pump Relay socket 85 is reaching it to energize the relay.

Look at the wiring diagram where I have "TEST CONN PIN 6" highlighted in Yellow.

That connector pin is on the EEC-IV Test Plug under your hood.

Pop off the cover and the connector looks like this:

If you grab a jumper wire, KEY ON, attach one side of it to a good ground and the other side to socket 6, it will take the PCM Fuel Pump Ground Signal to the Fuel Pump Relay socket 85 out of the equation.

If that makes the fuel pump run then you have to check for continuity between relay socket 85 and the connector on the PCM for the Fuel Pump Relay Control (which should be Pin 22 on yours)