You can use NiCopp tubing to easily fabricate new lines. The stuff bends and flares easily.

I feel your pain. I had to replace the brake lines on a 1995 Sable for the same reason.

I spent a few evenings practicing making double flares on brake line ends before I started the job.

(there's a knack to it and if you don't do it very often it takes a little practice to get consistent good results)

Just spray the heck out of all the hanger unions and component connections with good penetrating oil, several times over a few days, but chances are you'll be replacing many of them.

Those brackets with the compression union in them are pretty much generic so don't waste time trying to salvage them if they're being stubborn.

In my case, even the lines under the hood were rusted so I ended up replacing every inch of brake line in the car.

(the one that runs under the windshield under the hood was the one that originally ruptured in my case.)

So I don't think a schematic of the system would have done me any good. It was just, removing a line, using the old line as a pattern, bending the new line to match the old line, pressing double flares into each end of the tubing, installing, and moving to the next section of brake line, repeat.

There's a couple of places, like where the brake lines go into the pressure control valve, where you have to make some accurate tight bends, but using the old lines as a pattern, and taking your time, you can do it. (I did).

I'd say, don't buy the most expensive flaring tool, but don't buy the cheapest.

Same goes for a tubing bender. The cheap ones deform the diameter of the tubing and you can't have that.