I'm working on my dad's old 1996 2.3-liter, 4-cylinder, Ford Ranger XLT with about 420,000 miles on it, and I've decided to replace the EGR valve after having also replaced the EGR sensor and solenoid, just to give it the maximum power and running health, even though it's not throwing codes on my OBD-2 scanner.
My question is: should I also replace the EGR pipe, too, while I'm at it?
How much crud is attached to the inside of the pipe? I just invested in a load of EGR cleaner and let it soak over a weekend. I'm trying to work out how to use a flexible piece of round metal and solder it/thread it to a round wire brush as well that I can use in a drill.
I tried other cleaners like turpentine, soap, bleach, and white vinegar but got nowhere. If I could work out the dilution correctly I'd probably try a bit of drain cleaner with water. - Acid to water wasn't it? Or it explodes and eats your face if you go water to acid...
There's the issue of chunks of carbon breaking off as you clean it or loosening and then finding their way back into the engine either way. A liquid cleaner is probably best. But before I take too many chances on mine, I might just get a backup on Ebay or something. They're about £30-40 or so for my diesel Lexus IS220D.
Try Easy Off oven cleaner. Also Berryman's Chem Dip.
