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Should I use CRC electric cleaner to help remove a stuck 80amp fuse?

  

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Toyota tacoma 1996 2.4 valve twin cab automatic 

The 80amp fuse black plastic & clear plastic on top has dry rotted off the copper prongs.

Only thing left is the copper prongs inside fuse block.

The prongs aren’t broken. 

The fuse block isn’t broken or corroded.

The prongs are standing up an pull able. But are stuck in the fuse block very very tight. 

i want to use crc electric cleaner to loosen the grip so i can replace the 80a amp.

What should i do Scotty


 


4 Answers
5
Posted by: @usacrossthestate

From the beginning, on Wednesday, i was noticing engine power decrease while accelerating.

This is why you should provide all background information when asking questions here, not guessing an answer and then act surprised when it doesn't work. Always start at the beginning, and tell us the actual problem you are having. Otherwise we can't help you properly, and you will just frustrate yourself like this.

Please read the topic "READ THIS FIRST" at the top of the main page. Thanks.


4

It's held in by small bolts which have to be removed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8awmuE78Mxs

 


Are all 80 amp bolted down


Most times the 80 amp ALT fuse is mechanically fastened to prevent high amperage arcing. Same with the 100 amp Main fuse. (a car, unlike a house, hits bumps and potholes)
.


Thank you Jack62


I unbolted everything & replaced the 80a fuse.

Truck is running.
I am lacking power.
I haven’t pressed the gas.
I cleaned battery post and terminals.
Ground wire is tight.
Fuel Tank on half.
Alternator in since 2019.
Battery 2019
What should i do about power.


You'll have to be more specific about "lacking power"
.
Are you talking about electrical power to some components (if so, name some of them) or engine power (if so, explain in more detail)


Yes Engine power.

After i start the truck up, as the truck runs in park gear, it hesitates and stutters.

When i start driving, and i press on the gas, while accelerating, the truck Hesitates, stutters and pauses
trying to catch speed.


Do you know what caused the 80 amp fuse to blow originally?

(or did it just get damaged during your troubleshooting?)
.
Was the truck behaving this way before the 80 amp fuse blew or is this something new that didn't happen before and only began happening since you replaced that fuse?


From the beginning, on Wednesday, i was noticing engine power decrease while accelerating.

Thursday i started truck up and went to work and back home. Still same decrease in engine power.

What started me on this path of changing out the 80a amp was, yesterday Friday.
i started my truck up, it was hesitating a little.
i was still able to drive off.
I drove off to the next block and truck shuts down. Like someone shutting the power off.
I was able to start the truck back up but it wouldn’t stay running.
After the 2nd start up, the truck hesitates lacks acceleration power the whole while I pressed the gas driving, to make it home. I made it.

I started checking the fuse box under hood and i saw that the black box clear top 80a fuse was blown, cracked dry rotted.
Only the copper prongs were left inside the fuse slot.

The black 80a fuse looks as if, it is the original Toyota factory made fuse in 1996.
I changed the 80a amp fuse today.

After i changed the 80a fuse The truck stays running and drives. Just still hesitates and pause when gas is pressed.

I thought what originally blowed the fuse was because its never been changed since 1996.

No, truck was running fine, normal, good engine power and acceleration before 80amp fuse blew.
The Lack of engine power began Wednesday-Saturday today.
Hesitation started Friday afternoon

I have never changed 80a fuse, Until today.


So you noticed the loss of Power beginning on Wednesday and you started checking that 80 amp fuse on Friday
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What you're describing sounds like a fuel pressure issue
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You may want to begin by checking the fuel pressure
.
There's plenty of youtubes on how to connect a fuel gauge to that Tacoma and here's a link to the service manual with the PSI specs
http://www.markofshame.com/fsm/03_Tacoma/Repair_Manual/03tacoma/sf2rzfe3/fuepum/ovi.pdf
.
I think it would be a good starting point to rule this out or confirm it's the issue
.
Don't let that link confuse you with the high tech tester stuff. I just wanted you to have it for the fuel pressure and fuel pressure leakdown specs
.
All you have to do is remove the bolt from the bango fitting connecting the fuel inlet to the fuel delivery pipe and install an adapter with a Schrader fitting like this so you can connect a fuel pressure gauge
.

.

.
You can find them online and probably your local chain auto parts store
.
Keep us updated


Ok i will


Also check your alternator output.


I also check and just notice a few seconds ago my Engine Air Intake Hose is wore out.
It basically has an tore in it where it can’t grip around the intake manifold. It needs replacing asap.

Would that stop the vehicle from running in any kinda way?


Yes. The computer doesn't know about the air getting into the throttle body from there. Replace the hose. While you have it off look into the throttle body to see if it's dirty. With that defective intake hose unfiltered air was being sucked into the throttle body


Ok that makes sense. I will keep you updated after i look into the throttle body to see if its dirty and i will replace the hose


Yes the throttle body is a little dirty


I replaced my old fuel filter with an brand new fuel filter. Yes it was dirty. i think the first time its been replaced also, since the 90s. I also replaced the hose connected to the manifold. After wards i Started the truck up but it didn’t stay running.

i un plugged the mass air flow sensor and started the truck up, it remained running at least 30seconds 40seconds longer when the mass air flow sensor was plug in.

Is there an possibility that an mass air flow sensor can stop my truck from running or even starting?

Should i replace the mass air flow sensor? Or should i clean it? If so, what would be the proper way?


I appreciate everything Jack62


Sure, clean the MAF. You know where it is. On yours you may have to remove the air filter box to get access to the screws that hold it in because it looks like it's mounted on the side.

Pull it out and watch some youtubes on how to clean it. Use only MAF Cleaner. Don't use Carb Cleaner.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to just replace it if you can afford it because, afterall, it's probably 26 years old.

When you're done, inspect for any vacuum leaks in hoses, or a stuck open PCV Valve.

Since it's starting now, why not connect a scanner to it and record some live data?

Maybe record a few things.

It may be helpful to see stuff like IAT, MAF, ECT, TPS, RPM, any fuel trim being displayed, O2 voltage etc.

Maybe do it KOEO (Key On Engine Off) first.

Then with KOEO with the MAF connected and then while cranking.

Then with the MAF disconnected as it's running.

The comparisons may be helpful to see what's going on.

If all else fails I think you should check the fuel pressure because this seems like an air/fuel issue.

Click To Enlarge


1

Your question isn't very clear.  Are you trying to remove a fuse or pull out the fuse prongs?  If it's the fuse, just pull it out with needle nose pliers.  Disconnect your battery first.  Put a new fuse in with a small amount of dielectric grease.  If you have any corrosion, do all of them with the dielectric grease.


Thanks Doc


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I watched the video posted by Jack62, but wondered does the base of the fuse box need to be removed just to pull the fuse?

It seems that you could spray the stuck(probably corroded) prongs with the CRC Electronic spray and grasp them with needle nose pliers to remove. Then apply the CRC Di-Electric Grease (mentioned in the video) to prevent future corrosion, improved long-term contact and easier removal the next time. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EybmBavV4M


Thanks avalon04


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