Hello Scotty and the community,
I have a 2014 Chrysler 200 with the 2.4L VVT engine naturally aspirated. It currently has 210,000 miles on it. I’ve had it for 5 years, when I got it, it had 105,000 and was already burning about half a quart every 5,000 miles.
I take care of this car as much as possible, and change the oil strictly every 3,000 miles using full synthetic and high quality filter. So far, the burning hasn’t worsened after all these years, but I do have a question. I can tell the engine is high mileage and I am debating wether using 5w30 or sticking to 5w20. The car calls for 5w20, and I don’t have the owners manual, based only on oil cap on the engine.
I know Scotty said to always stick to the manufactured recommendation but, I have seen many times, I have researched and seen other people’s experiences, and many suggest for an engine with high mileage that burns a bit of oil, to switch to 5w30, because it operates better in high temperatures and it helps not burn as much because as seals wear, the thinner the oil the easier it is to pass through and burn compared to the thicker one. I hear people saying they use 5w30 in their vehicles for 5w20 and never had issues.
My engine being an older design 2.4L, I saw that this engine was originally designed for 5w30 on older vehicles but that used 5w20 for fuel economy on the later models, so apparently this engine was made originally for 5w30, but mine being a 2014 calls for 5w20. Another thing too I heard that 5w20 was good for engines that are newer and tighter, but as engines age and wear, especially mine being a more simple older engine, 5w30 would give more benefit to it while driving. So I don’t know if this is made up, or if this is true. I don’t want the oil burning to worsen.
So I am confused and don’t know what to do. I want this engine to last as much as I can. What should I do? If you could clarify why one is better than the other would be highly appreciated.
2014 Chrysler 200 with the 2.4L VVT engine
This is the "World" engine co-developed with Hyundai (the design is similar to the infamous Theta engine). These engines are kind of known for failing often. They saved money absolutely everywhere they could making this engine. Plastic is found absolutely everywhere on it. Notably the plastic throttle body gears are known for failing. Valves are driven directly off the camshaft (no hydraulics), so once they wear out, that's it.
It currently has 210,000 miles on it.
I would be pretty happy it lasted this long. It has earned its keep
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I don’t want the oil burning to worsen... What should I do?
It won't get better. Stick with the same oil. Keep it topped up, and shorten your change interval.
@imperator That's interesting I had no idea Hyundai was involved in this engine. You're not the only one I am shocked myself it lasted this long and still going on strong. At this mileage it's only burning half a quart every 4/5k miles. I do agree the plastic is annoying, but I did replace the throttle body when I first got it 5ish years ago because it started to fail then. I did the cover gasket myself and went ahead to replace the injectors and coils as well as spark plugs twice since I owned it just to keep up with the maintenance. I just know at this mileage it's a miracle for a Chrysler to make it this far without major issues so that's why I am doing what I can to keep it running until the wheels fall off since the value of this car is practically nothing, so might as well keep it while it runs
@imperator I have a 2010 KIA Ceed with a 1.4 liter 90HP engine. It has 101K miles and uses 0.5 quart every 1,000 miles. I changed from 5W30 to 10W40 at 95K miles and the oil consumption went down to the current half a quart every 1,000 miles. I hope the engine can make it to 150K miles but I am satisfied that this economy car is still going for what I paid for it. I recommend you stay with the original grade. Anything thicker will hurt your fuel efficiency and maybe worse. If you notice the oil consumption increasing to 0.8 quarts every 1K miles then MAYBE go to a slightly thicker oil. I hope this helps.
That doesn't really qualify as an "older engine". If you had something like a 1958 DeSoto that would be "older". What you have is a "modern engine".
I can tell the engine is high mileage and I am debating wether using 5w30 or sticking to 5w20.
Stick with the oil recommended by the manufacturer. If you use the site search function you'll find that recommendation to be pretty much universal here. (The reason for that is that modern engines use the engine oil as hydraulic fluid to operate valve timing phasers.)
I don’t have the owners manual,
Did you look for it online? Found it in less than 10 seconds:
https://vehicleinfo.mopar.com/assets/publications/en-us/Chrysler/2014/200/8140.pdf
(Oil recommendation is on page 475.)
@chucktobias You know exactly what I meant when I said older engine. I thought you are knowledgeable at this aren’t you? I know I am not a mechanic or claim to know everything but I know what is red and what is blue. Chrysler before stellantis had designed this specific 2.4L engines you would find in many chrysler and dodge vehicles in the 2000s. Mine on the 200s was the last year they used that type of engine, 2015 was the updated stellantis version with a different 2.4L design called TigerShark. When I say older, I am pretty sure I was clear I said older 2.4L engine, I never stated this is a classic or antique engine.
You said to search and see that sticking with the recommended viscosity is pretty standard here, which is precisely why I asked in the first place. I was pretty clear to say that Scotty and the community recommended to use the manufacturer recommendation, but mentioned that I hear different answers from other mechanics and people who have experienced this. Which is exactly why I specifically stated to give me the reason why I should use your advise, and explained a few things I was told on why to switch. I was not ignoring the recommendations here, but when you have different answers I like some clarity, therefore your answer did not explain why I should stick to it
You stating that you found it in 10 seconds sounds pretty condescending and unnecessary, I wasn’t aware of it as I stated I am not a mechanic nor have a lot of knowledge in fixing cars, just because you do doesn’t mean you should make condescending statements.
You know exactly what I meant when I said older engine.
I am not a licensed commercial telepath. "Older" is subjective, it's a judgement call.
your answer did not explain why I should stick to it
Yes it did:
"The reason for that is that modern engines use the engine oil as hydraulic fluid to operate valve timing phasers."
In other words, changing the weight of the oil may affect valve timing on modern engines. Additionally, modern engines have tight tolerances for oil passages and a thicker oil may not flow well enough. Engines that have been built for years and appear to be the same frequently have engineering changes made during their life cycle to fix problems, for regulatory compliance, etc. Therefore the safest approach, unless it has been shown otherwise through testing, is the use the oil specified by the manufacturer.
You stating that you found it in 10 seconds sounds pretty condescending and unnecessary,
It was not meant to be condescending, it was simply pointing out how easy it is to find such information.
I have a 2014 Chrysler 200 with the 2.4L VVT engine naturally aspirated. It currently has 210,000 miles on it. I’ve had it for 5 years, when I got it, it had 105,000 and was already burning about half a quart every 5,000 miles.
Piston rings don't create a perfect seal. A tiny bit of blow-by from the combustion process leaks into the crankcase and the PCV valve vents the gas/oil mix back into the engine's combustion chambers to be burned again. With that kind of mileage, you've really babied it. The engine is fine. Don't change your oil viscosity, transition to a high mileage formulation of the same viscosity of you haven't already.
