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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| RE: Radiator Replacement Required for Preventative Maintenance? | 16Relevance | 6 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| @razmigb no... not outdated. liquid is a much more efficient carrier of heat than air. That's why we drive liquid cooled engines instead of air cooled. | |||||
| RE: Radiator Replacement Required for Preventative Maintenance? | 16Relevance | 6 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| @razmigb There is a such thing. I don't know about Lexus, but radiators will sometimes contain a liquid-to-liquid heat exchanger for transmission fluid. Anyway, radiators are not an preventive maintenance item. | |||||
| 2001 jeep grand cherokee | 16Relevance | 6 years ago | ericseibert | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2010 jeep grand cherokee 221k miles automatic. liquid sloshing around noise from passenger side dashboard when turning corners. no liquid on floor. need problem and remedy,please | |||||
| Piston slap at cold start | 15Relevance | 6 months ago | TheBlackTop | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty, My Racing Civic is currently at 73K miles and at every cold start at the morning before working, I hear what I think is a piston slap for 10 - 15 seconds and the it’s goes away. Now it’s almost at its next oil change. But when it’s hits 3k after the last oil change, the oil looks dark already like it need another oil change and I only use full synthetic oil like Quaker state, Mobil 1, Valveoline, Fram, Etc. So I’m gonna use liqui Moly engine flush before when I do my next oil change. I’ll like to know is there any other kind of remedy to silent it or I should do more than an engine flush. Thanks | |||||
| Answer to: 2007 Lexus RX350 - Piston Slap | 15Relevance | 10 months ago | aapicariello | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| When the car is in drive and I accelerate, I hear a knocking/ticking sound, which goes away once the engine reaches operating temperature. If I park the car and race the engine, I don't hear the sound, so I am almost certain it's piston slap, but I will take a video and post for you to hear. Thank you | |||||
| Answer to: Is 20 years too Old for a corolla? | 16Relevance | 4 years ago | G.T. | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You probably mean 1.4 4ZZ-FE engine. They have problems with oil consumption. Perhaps @dan knows more. You can also check this discussion and source page of the bottom quotes for more info. • The main problem of ZZ series is so well-known that entered the folklore - high oil consumption, which often occured even during the warranty. The main reason - the structural defects causing piston rings seizure. "There were problems with the engines until 2001, but then they were fixed and now everything is all right" - such straightforward misinformation often used by owners who need to resell cars with these ill-fated engines. In fact, repeated Toyota's attempts to resolve the problem only by installation of a new modifications of the rings were absolutely useless. Noticeable result was obtained after major upgrade in the mid-2005, when the new pistons and new piston rings were implemented and by half-liter was increased the nominal capacity of lubrication system. Extended 7-year warranty (for most fortunate owners) covered replacement of short-block assembly (~ $4800), but when eliminating the defect at own expense - will have to confine by new set of pistons (~ $660), rings (~ $200) and also valve stem seals replacement (and ideally - together with the timing chain and crankshaft oil seals). Differences of new pistons - eight large drainage holes insted of four small, and cuts at the bottom of oil ring grooves. Artisanal practice of drilling additional holes for oil drain in the old type pistions is unlikely to be welcomed, in addition these "folk" holes layout quite differs from the new original pistons. At the early 2010s the actual modification of the pistons for most models - 13101-0D062 (overseas market) and 13101-22180 (domestic market). The first "correct" pistons (13101-22032) also have a right to exist, although differs from -22180 by lack of special anti-friction coating on the skirt. Of course, a set of piston rings should be of latest modifications (13011-22220 / 22221, 13011-0D111). New oil gage with the notorious "green mark" on the handle (15301-0D011, 15301-22050) differs from the old one only by control points layout. • But often after overhaul of the engine (even with mileage just 150-200.000 km) reveals a grim picture - there is not hone grid on the cylinder walls or wall are polished to a mirror shine. In civilized conditions for "disposable" motors with fused in thin-walled liners it must be unambiguous verdict - "to trash". But there is no civilization here... so a lot of "repaired" ZZ are on the local roads. Moreover, not bothering to search for quality parts, some owners often install dubious origin liners for VAZ engines (analogue of Fiat 124 '1966), another reboring liners for any oversized aftermarket pistons... Since the results of these repairs is difficult to call "Toyota", the installation of "second-hand" engine of the later releases looks more appropriate, luckily that 1ZZ-FE engines were common for all markets (including Japan). But 3ZZ-FE and 4ZZ-FE - these engines were installed in the European versions (for Japan was used the much more successful 1NZ-FE). Ironically, classic Toyota's engines could be rebored, but in most cases was enough simple overhaul with rings replacement to remove the oil consumption. When at the same mileage repair of ZZ is required, it is far more likely the need of "reboring" - but, alas, have unintended. • At the end of the ZZ career, another structural defect of pre-2008 3ZZ-FE and 4ZZ-FE was discovered - a knock in the engine caused by crankshaft axial play. Prescription: replacement of the crankshaft with bearings and thrust washers. The other points are common Toyota's operational "features". • Conventional VVT "rattle" after cold start at ZZ is not so expressed and looks like age-related problem. However, the "bad" actuators exist, so when fighting against noise or chain looseness, it is recommended to replace actuator by most recent version (13050-22012, but better -0D010). It is strongly recommended to change the sprocket with VVT actuator assembly during major overhaul. • Once again note the limited life-time of the timing chain and chain tensioner. • Unstable or too low idle speed, or stalling after first cold start attempt - are taking place, but do not have a universal solution. Make sure that throttle body and ISCV are clean from soot and sludge, as well as MAF-sensor. However, should not forget that the ISCV, air flow meter, ignition coils... - are not "eternal". But if after all possible replacements problem persists, use world experience and technical bulletins - Toyota themselves struggling similar symptoms, by fuel pumps replacement due to insufficient pressure, or engine control units replacement or reprogramming... | |||||
| Answer to: 2007 Lexus RX350 - Piston Slap | 15Relevance | 10 months ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Are you sure it's piston slap you're hearing? If possible record a youtube video demonstrating the sound and post the link here. | |||||
| Answer to: 2014 Honda Odyssey Piston Rings | 15Relevance | 2 years ago | Edgarrr | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Same issue here. I have a 4.6 liter v8 engine in a f150 2006. Took it to the ford dealer they did a compression test on it gave me a sheet of paper with the results and told me cylinder 4 5 and I believe 8 were low on compression specifically 4 and 5. Said new engine needed. Spark plugs were also covered in black oil completely wet past the threads. misfires pretty nasty at idle. at high speed no. Just goes to show. Scotty was right. You buy used vehicle, you're risking it. Engine has about 140k, and was used.. .Basically more than likely its bad piston rings right? | |||||
| Answer to: need your opinion | 16Relevance | 4 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| That isn't much money in this market. It's 10 years old and has relatively low miles. Kias tend to have issues around 100,000 miles, though. I would check the transmission, and would possibly change the fluid, depending on how it looks, if nothing else, at least the filter. The next biggest thing is a compression test. Kias have pretty much always had problems with their piston rings and they tend to burn oil as they age. The new ones are usually oil burners from the get-go. I'm not sure how they can have such poor quality, it's not like piston engines are a new thing. They've been around for over 100 years, so piston rings should be practically perfected, and cheap to make, by now. | |||||
| Answer to: 2008 Hyundai Azera V6 lifters knocking after oil change | 16Relevance | 4 years ago | Nathaniel J. | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Man I hate to break the bad news to you. I don’t believe that’s lifter tick. I believe that is either piston slap, or rod knock (due to how loud it was and the frequency of ranges) you see oil has to reach the top of the engine, and once it does, the noise will quiet down. Though if that noise correlates with RPM which it seems like it does. It gets louder as you rev the engine and faster. I’m not shocked though, Hyundai & Kia have been known for rod knock/piston slap as higher mileage is apparent. If it was lifters, it would stay at that same noise, because even when the oil reaches the top of the engine. Lifter tick is caused when the push rod or camshaft doesn't make continuous contact with the lifters. This can be because the lifter has become worn out, as is the case usually with hydraulic lifters, or the valve has come out of adjustment ( though you don’t have hydraulic lifters I believe with your car model ). Lifter tick has it in the name, it sounds like a tick. Like in your video it sounded like a “KNOCKING noise”or “SLAP noise”. Not a “tick” it sound like Rod Knock and/or piston Slap. So I hate to break it to you but that engine is on its last legs. Eventually if it’s rod knock. You’re eventually gonna head one LAST LOUD knock, and your rod is gonna shoot out of the engine. So I’m sorry but it’s the end of that engines life. It did last a long while though. ~200K which is decent for those Hyundai & Kia Engines. So I’d either junk it, cause you couldn’t probably get but like ~500$ for that (parts only). Or replace the engine with a rebuilt one, or a junkyard engine (cheaper but you take a gamble). I wish you Good luck and former apologizes. Kind Regards, Nathaniel J. | |||||
| Answer to: Question About Motorcycle engines | 16Relevance | 4 years ago | Glen_stet | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Kevin Cameron at Cycle World just published an article which I think will start to answer some of the questions you have. He writes excellent engineering explanations. He addresses a number of bike engine issues, at least one every week. "Losing the Liner Look at almost any late-model motorcycle engine’s cylinder bore and you will no longer see the traditional (and heavy) iron cylinder liner. German engine-development engineers racked their brains for ways to boost power, equaling or exceeding the performance of Allied fighters. Their testing confirmed that by eliminating the iron liner, which conducts heat poorly, and applying hard, porous chromium plate directly onto an aluminum cylinder, they could cool hard-working pistons faster. In the early 1960s, when Yamaha was confronted with high two-stroke piston temperatures causing outright seizure or piston-ring sticking from oil gumming, the Tuning Fork folks tried the same thing. First they tried anodizing the aluminum cylinder wall, turning it into hard ceramic aluminum oxide. When that proved unreliable they adopted hard but porous chrome plating, and by 1967 they had a durable solution. Current production motorcycle engines employ even more durable hard plating such as Nikasil to improve piston cooling and shed the 6 pounds that iron liners can add." " | |||||
| RE: Replacing piston rings on 4 Cylinder Camry | 15Relevance | 2 years ago | Shone200 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hmmm but the Camry's use the same engines from 2002 to 2009. So it could be the piston rings. Or it could be just the age and miles related as well. It is a 2006 Camry with 375k miles. It burns about 2-3 quarts every 5k miles. | |||||
| RE: Replacing piston rings on 4 Cylinder Camry | 15Relevance | 2 years ago | Shone200 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Ok thank you. Yea it's just better to rebuild the whole engine instead of just replacing the pistons and piston rings. | |||||
| RE: Replacing piston rings on 4 Cylinder Camry | 15Relevance | 2 years ago | Shone200 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Oh it does burn oil and I know 4 cylinder Camry's from the year 2004 to 2009 have thin piston rings and they burn oil as miles rack up. We just add oil and top it off. It is not worth rebuilding an engine unless if you can do it by yourself and save a whole bunch of money on labor. | |||||
| Answer to: Replacing piston rings on 4 Cylinder Camry | 15Relevance | 2 years ago | Dad2LM2 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Yeah, I think you’ll have to pull the engine. What’s the problem with the piston rings? | |||||