You probably mean 1.4 4ZZ-FE engine. They have problems with oil consumption. Perhaps @dan knows more.

You can also check this discussion and source page of the bottom quotes for more info.

• The main problem of ZZ series is so well-known that entered the folklore - high oil consumption, which often occured even during the warranty. The main reason - the structural defects causing piston rings seizure.

"There were problems with the engines until 2001, but then they were fixed and now everything is all right" - such straightforward misinformation often used by owners who need to resell cars with these ill-fated engines. In fact, repeated Toyota's attempts to resolve the problem only by installation of a new modifications of the rings were absolutely useless.

Noticeable result was obtained after major upgrade in the mid-2005, when the new pistons and new piston rings were implemented and by half-liter was increased the nominal capacity of lubrication system. Extended 7-year warranty (for most fortunate owners) covered replacement of short-block assembly (~ $4800), but when eliminating the defect at own expense - will have to confine by new set of pistons (~ $660), rings (~ $200) and also valve stem seals replacement (and ideally - together with the timing chain and crankshaft oil seals).

Differences of new pistons - eight large drainage holes insted of four small, and cuts at the bottom of oil ring grooves. Artisanal practice of drilling additional holes for oil drain in the old type pistions is unlikely to be welcomed, in addition these "folk" holes layout quite differs from the new original pistons.

At the early 2010s the actual modification of the pistons for most models - 13101-0D062 (overseas market) and 13101-22180 (domestic market). The first "correct" pistons (13101-22032) also have a right to exist, although differs from -22180 by lack of special anti-friction coating on the skirt. Of course, a set of piston rings should be of latest modifications (13011-22220 / 22221, 13011-0D111). New oil gage with the notorious "green mark" on the handle (15301-0D011, 15301-22050) differs from the old one only by control points layout.

• But often after overhaul of the engine (even with mileage just 150-200.000 km) reveals a grim picture - there is not hone grid on the cylinder walls or wall are polished to a mirror shine.

In civilized conditions for "disposable" motors with fused in thin-walled liners it must be unambiguous verdict - "to trash". But there is no civilization here... so a lot of "repaired" ZZ are on the local roads. Moreover, not bothering to search for quality parts, some owners often install dubious origin liners for VAZ engines (analogue of Fiat 124 '1966), another reboring liners for any oversized aftermarket pistons... Since the results of these repairs is difficult to call "Toyota", the installation of "second-hand" engine of the later releases looks more appropriate, luckily that 1ZZ-FE engines were common for all markets (including Japan). But 3ZZ-FE and 4ZZ-FE - these engines were installed in the European versions (for Japan was used the much more successful 1NZ-FE).

Ironically, classic Toyota's engines could be rebored, but in most cases was enough simple overhaul with rings replacement to remove the oil consumption. When at the same mileage repair of ZZ is required, it is far more likely the need of "reboring" - but, alas, have unintended.

• At the end of the ZZ career, another structural defect of pre-2008 3ZZ-FE and 4ZZ-FE was discovered - a knock in the engine caused by crankshaft axial play. Prescription: replacement of the crankshaft with bearings and thrust washers.

The other points are common Toyota's operational "features".

• Conventional VVT "rattle" after cold start at ZZ is not so expressed and looks like age-related problem. However, the "bad" actuators exist, so when fighting against noise or chain looseness, it is recommended to replace actuator by most recent version (13050-22012, but better -0D010). It is strongly recommended to change the sprocket with VVT actuator assembly during major overhaul.

• Once again note the limited life-time of the timing chain and chain tensioner.

• Unstable or too low idle speed, or stalling after first cold start attempt - are taking place, but do not have a universal solution. Make sure that throttle body and ISCV are clean from soot and sludge, as well as MAF-sensor. However, should not forget that the ISCV, air flow meter, ignition coils... - are not "eternal". But if after all possible replacements problem persists, use world experience and technical bulletins - Toyota themselves struggling similar symptoms, by fuel pumps replacement due to insufficient pressure, or engine control units replacement or reprogramming...

I know 175 Miles is nothing for a corolla but is 20 years too much for even a corolla?

I think you mean 175,000 miles, and in that case it's too much for any car, Especially a 4ZZ oil burner.

Also 96 horsepower is not enough to really move a corolla, ideally you want at least 120 horses.

European specification Toyotas are not great, all of that emissions and fuel cost saving technology made them too European.

All of those 1.2T, 1.33, 1.5L engines were not sold in the US, and they're just not that great...

Still better than 99% of Euro petrols, but just not as good as what Toyota marketed in the rest of the world.

A small Toyota should only have a 1.6L or a 1.8L without ValveMatic or any of that other garbage.

(Ideally made during or after 2010 - that was Toyota's best)

In the U.S. a Corolla like that would generally be OK if it's not rusted and has been well taken care of, though there would be some parts that need to be replaced due to age. However we didn't get the 1.4 engine here and I have no idea how those hold up.

Thank you so much for the in depth answers guys! 
i do in fact mean 175000 miles:-)

i Will look for a 1.6 or 1.8 liter corolla with less miles and made during or after 2010. Also run it by a mechanic before buying if possible. Im only planning on owning it for about 2 years.

thanks again!