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Search result for: synthetic oil
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: Correct Oil | 22Relevance | 2 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Stick with the oil viscosity recommended by the manufacturer unless it's a very old (like 1970s vintage) vehicle. Modern engines are built to very tight tolerances and have viscosity-sensitive components such as the variable valve timing mechanism. You can go back and forth between conventional, synthetic blend, and synthetic as long as the manufacturer does not require synthetic oil. (It is always best to stick with synthetic in turbocharged applications due to the high temperatures encountered.) | |||||
| Should I use full synthetic oil in a 1972 Oldsmobile Toronado? | 22Relevance | 3 years ago | TakisStorm2005 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty I have a 1972 Oldsmobile Toronado that has a 455 olds v8 with 100,378 miles and it’s all stock never been taken out from the car. I’ve wanting to use full synthetic motor oil (with maybe Lucus oil stabilizer or stp) in the toronado because it has better anti wear properties then conventional oil but I’ve git mixed responses of using ether synthetic or conventional oil on a vintage car. What’s your response to this and also how do you feel about Oldsmobile Toronados? Thanks | |||||
| Answer to: Synthetic oil better on engine parts than conventional ? | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| "Synthetic" oil is more stable than conventional oil. It withstands more heat, flows better on cold start, and stays cleaner. That's why more manufacturers are recommending it in contemporary vehicles, and I think going forward it will mostly replace conventional oil. "synthetic oil" is a stupid name anyway. It's just more refined. | |||||
| Answer to: Best Synthetic Oil | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | Mod_Man | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Anything but AMS oil and Royal Purple, unless you just like to light your money on fire. Then it doesn't matter. I've always used Mobil 1 Full synthetic and it's been fantastic. synthetic oils are all made well these days, even Kendall. Save your money on lab testing. People OBSESS over their oil and some guys I know ship out samples to Blackstone every oil change. They have their oil checked more than they have their blood checked. Absolutely no point unless you are having problems and need information. | |||||
| Synthetic oil better on engine parts than conventional ? | 23Relevance | 5 years ago | 427HISS | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty, thanks for all the great reviews and advise ! We bought a outstanding looking and driving 2016 Lincoln MKZ with 62,000 miles. It's in almost perfecting condition except for some stone chips in the candy apple red paint on the hood. Question, is using synthetic oil better on the rotating assembly and valve train vs conventional oil ? I don't buy into the change oil every 15,000 miles. Maybe,...if you changed the oil filter every 5,000 miles, as it's the engines liver, ya know, to clean the blood for a longer life. So, will synthetic oil easier on ... | |||||
| 2001 Toyota Camry running synthetic blend should I switch to full synthetic? | 23Relevance | 4 years ago | Animeguy86 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... it! I put a new battery,alternator, egr valve, radiator, thermostat, crankshaft sensor, spark plugs and wires. Cleaned out all the carbon on the throttle body and used Gumout tune up in a can. It runs like a dream now!!! But I really wanna keep this Toyota running like a clock. Right now I’m running a synthetic blend of valvoline maxlife no leaks...should I switch to a high milage full synthetic? Will this cause any leaks? And do you have any advice getting another 100,000 miles on this Camry? | |||||
| Answer to: How do I deal with car that burns a qt of oil per month | 23Relevance | 4 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Coolant in the exhaust creates white smoke. It's actually steam, not smoke. Burning oil produces a bluish smoke, and smells like burning oil. Ideally, no engine should burn oil. A little bit (talking a half quart over 5k miles) is normal. Given the really thin oil your engine uses, more probably leaks past the piston rings than older designs using heavier oil. Engine oil systems aren't totally sealed internally. The oil degrades from heat and pressure, and lighter fractions enter the PCV system to be burned. This indicates oil pressure, which is not necessarily indicative of low oil volume. Check the oil on the dipstick after it's sat for 30 minutes or so. If it's full and still on, check the oil pressure with a manual gauge you can rent at auto parts stores. Somewhere between 25 and 65 PSI is in the normal range. The pressure sensor can go bad and need to be replaced. If you're driving two quarts low before you add more, you're wearing out the engine prematurely, oil pressure is directly related to the tightness of bearings. If they're too loose, even just a tiny bit, oil pressure won't be correct, which will cause more wear, and the oil pressure light may come on. You didn't say the mileage your car accumulates over this time to judge how much oil it uses. Do the simplest thing first and change the PCV valve. It's usually pretty easy to get to, and they're dirt cheap. If they get stuck open, they can cause the engine to burn more oil than normal. | |||||
| Answer to: Synthetic or Mineral oil ? | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | billybob | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Honestly, I felt that synthetic oil was more marketing from the oil companies than anything else and I have not seen enough evidence to justify the higher price. If you have never used synthetic oil I wouldn't switch now. If mineral oil has worked this long just keep using it. | |||||
| Answer to: synthetic oil or conventional | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | Whatchamacallit | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 258,000 km is about 160,000 miles. With that high mileage I would stick with whatever type oil you have been using before. If it was much lower mileage you can go either conventional or synthetic, but once you choose an oil type you generally want to stick to that type from that point onward. synthetic allows for longer intervals between oil changes compared to conventional so if you drive a lot every year it’s be better to use that. It also costs more, too. Scotty does good job explaining it here, but since you have such high mileage I would not change ... | |||||
| Will switching from full to semi synthetic cause acceleration loss? | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | Cody93 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Will switching from full synthetic to semi synthetic or semi synthetic high mileage oil cause me to lose acceleration power in my 2012 fusion 4cyl | |||||
| RE: Mercury GM Synthetic or Regular? | 22Relevance | 6 years ago | matt.haislip | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| @Carlos Interesting. The owners manual shows a bottle of synthetic oil (5W 20) in their recommendation. The owner seems to have used synthetic as well. I guess I'll use synthetic! Thanks for your thoughts! | |||||
| Answer to: Conventional vs synthetic blend vs full synthetic | 22Relevance | 3 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Ignore the marketing on the front of the bottle. Labelling like "synthetic" are just lies and buzzwords, and don't mean anything real. Nobody regulates the jingo. Car manufacturers have made buying oil dead easy for owners. All you have to do is read the BACK of the bottle. What matters is the oil classification (API-SN, API-SP, GF-6, etc.). So just make sure the oil meets or exceeds the specification the manufacturer gave you in the manual. These performance terms have to be certified. All this is covered in the FAQ on our main page. | |||||
| I used the wrong oil | 23Relevance | 3 years ago | mc690 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... with NO issues! It’s a 5L V-8 N/A & JLR specifies 5W-20 & that’s what I’ve used. However, I ordered direct from K&N 2 gallons at a good price. (I had been using FRAM hi-mil full syn from AdvAto) & maybe because I changed my oil & hadn’t had enough coffee but I read my order CONFIRMATION & just didn’t look close enough at the gallon jugs. I only did since the car’s list mileage since the oil change {A few points} and the temp sensor shows cold for the 1st time (I live in the Florida Keys it’s so NOT cold here that I can’t turn on ... | |||||
| Answer to: Old Engine Oil Change | 23Relevance | 5 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Engines back then were not built to the same tolerances and did not have advanced features such as variable valve timing with complex hydraulics that require specific oil weights. Although synthetic oil was available it was not widely used. On old-school inline sixes and V8s typically the manufacturer would specify 10W30 or 10W40 oil be used under most conditions. (Lighter or heavier oil might be recommended for extreme temperatures.) When engines started to wear and use oil it was common to switch to 20W50 oil as long as temperatures didn't get much below f ... | |||||
| Used conventional instead of full synthetic | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | ainavarro91 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello, We may buy a 2008 Toyota Corolla Le with about 110k miles from my mother-in-law - who is a bit clueless about anything mechanic. She would take it to Monroe for oil changes twice a year with not even adding five 5000 miles that year. They use conventional oil instead of full synthetic. ( who knows if they actually change the filter with how frequency she saw them). Will using conventional oil instead of synthetic oil for so long harm an engine, or will the engine be okay since the oil was changed so frequently? | |||||