Notifications
Clear all
Search result for: liquid piston
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: should I | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | geriscan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... Forum. It seems informed and credible. Read it and decide: __ From ClubFrontier.org: The URL: +++Quote is Below+++ The issue was caused by a failure of a seal in the radiator's integral cooler; it's not a corrosion issue as some have suggested. When the seal fails, the engine coolant and transmission fluid can cross-contaminate. This issue occurs on 2005 though 2010 Frontiers/Xterras/Pathfinders with the VQ40DE engine with the orignial, Calsonic radiator. Most of the failures have occurred on 05-07 models, but there have been failures on later models ... | |||||
| Answer to: Why does my car burn oil? 2004 Chevrolet Malibu Maxx V6 LT, 176K miles | 21Relevance | 2 years ago | Oskool | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Oil burning is usually caused by not changing the engine oil every 5,000 miles or once a year for naturally aspirated engines. Every 3,000 miles for turbo charged engines. The Car Care Nut recommends changing the oil every 6 months instead of 12 months. Following the car manufacturer recommendations of 10,000 mile oil changes will almost certainly lead to oil burning. The service intervals car manufacturers recommend is designed to get the car through it's warranty period. Once the warranty expires and the car starts burning oil and the transmission starts slipping because the 'lifetime fluid' was never changed, they'll gladly sell you a new car. Here's a 3D video on how the lubricant system of an engine works. A video on how piston rings work. piston rings are supposed to spin and move freely inside the piston ring groove. Car Care Nut talking about his experience working at the Toyota dealership and showing how 10,000 mile oil changes cause piston rings to seize up in the groove. (12:40 timestamp) Royalty Auto showing what 10,000 mile oil changes did to a Land Rover with only 87,000 miles. | |||||
| Answer to: What’s the difference between 4 piston or 6 piston brake callipers? | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | InThrustWeTrust | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| For which vehicle? | |||||
| What’s the difference between 4 piston & 6 piston brake callipers? | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | Manoo | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi guys I have always been confused when ever car reviews said the brakes are 4 pistons or 6 pistons. What does it mean? | |||||
| Answer to: Scotty. I purchased a 2011 BMW 535i. Three days after the purchase, a piston and rod was damaged. Pepboys, suggested replacing the engine. What do you think about replacing the damaged piston and rod, and do I need to think long term about... | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | Mod_Man | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You need a new motor. If you bought it as is, the dealer owes you nothing legally, even though it was a sleazy thing to do. Did you get it checked out by a mechanic prior to purchase? Did you happen to buy from.a dealer with a 5 or 7 day return policy? | |||||
| Answer to: Scotty. I purchased a 2011 BMW 535i. Three days after the purchase, a piston and rod was damaged. Pepboys, suggested replacing the engine. What do you think about replacing the damaged piston and rod, and do I need to think long term about... | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | InThrustWeTrust | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Goodbye engine. If they sold you such a badly damaged vehicle, you need to ask for a full refund, and if they refuse, contact a lawyer. Did you do a pre purchase inspection on the vehicle, before purchase? | |||||
| Oil consumption | 18Relevance | 5 years ago | Roberto79 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... sense to be the rings. What do you think it is and if it is the rings then is there a liquid sealant that you know that works instead of paying someone to do an engine tear down to replace the rings? Also I didn’t do my research about kias when buying from the dealership and apparently Kia has been having this problem a lot with their cars. | |||||
| Answer to: White exhaust smoke at startup with oil loss | 21Relevance | 1 year ago | Abhi | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It's likely Coolant or Engine oil burning inside the Chamber. Lets assume its coolant, Coolant Quantity will deplete faster and you might want to check your coolant level often after driving your car for a good distance with the AC turned on.Coolant burns are most likely associated with bubbling of the coolant when you open your Radiator cap in colder engine you can see coolant boiling due the the loss of compression gasses from the head gasket. That said, you may also have a blown up head gasket and further see oil leaks in due time. Coolant burns are hard to find in exhaust fumes, if the leak is slow, all you have to do is check coolant reservoir when cold. Secondly as I'm 90 percent assuming, lets say Its engine oil burning. Since you have replaced necessary valves. We can rule them out. On startup of a cold engine, what happens for a few seconds is. The piston and its rings are not fully expanded in colder temperatures and does to form a correct seal lock in colder Temperatures. And oil leaks from the piston rings and combust with the air fuel mixture, thus resulting in white smoke. As the engine chamber warms up gradually after few seconds, the piston, rings, sleeves, with heat, expand to their correct sizes and forms a tight seal, thereby after few seconds it does not let oil pass through them, there by not burning oil and white smoke has stopped. Engines are meant to be run hot, as their operating temperature, not cold. That's why its advised not to rev your engines right after startup as that's not the best temperature engine is to be run. It is most likely your piston rings and sleeves have given up in one or more cylinders. And it may need a rebuild. You can do a compression test professionally to determine the compression leak. You can drive your car until it passes emissions tests and does not emit much white smoke in traffic, you have to keep adding oil for every 500 miles. Over time, Your spark plugs also keep failing as unburnt oil deposits, clog the spark plugs. Causing misfires and tripping codes. White smoke is just visible on startup, but even later as you drive, engine still burns minute amounts of oil but you just cannot see them. When cold, put your finger in the tail pipe, it has to be dry like powder, if its greasy, your car is burning oil all the time. Heck if you are a cheap guy like me, you can just drive adding engine oil additives, you can add engine oil of thicker viscosity, you have to keep changing spark plugs. If the mechanic verdicts that you need a engine Overhaul, its upto you. When you anyways need a new engine why not experiment by using oil additives or Thicker engine oil. Again Not recommended. It's for curiosity. I remember adding myself a Truck engine oil to my Motorcycle which had same problem at startup. It still burned oil. ATS is for rubber seals, Fuel additives are for Injectors. If you want to experiment Additives, they have to be directly added to engine oil. Im not a Mechanic, it's my diagnosis as a enthusiast. I wonder why your Camry has given out such soon with less mileage. Better consult a Honest Mechanic like Scotty. | |||||
| Answer to: Ford misfires after compression test | 21Relevance | 2 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Cylinder 2 is worn. The wear should be within 10% of the highest value in your compression test, 140 PSI differs from 170 PSI by 18%. You can't correct this unless you rebuild the engine. Ensure your spark plugs are tight and there is no cross-threading. I had an issue with misfiring in my '79 Catalina a couple years ago. It would only misfire when cold. When it's warmed up, it was fine. I had changed the spark plugs 4 months prior and a couple had wiggled loose. They sealed when the engine got hot. That car has a V8, not an I3. Providing you used OEM coils and a turbo, a spark plug could have wiggled loose. That's the only explanation I can think of. | |||||
| Answer to: Lexus V6 Twin Turbo Longevity? | 21Relevance | 2 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Twin-turbo V6s look good on paper, if you don't drive like a maniac, but as soon as that turbo kicks in, it's cramming more air into that cylinder than a naturally aspirated engine, and more fuel is being injected to compensate, massively lowering MPG. Most people don't drive conservatively, especially with a turbo. They like the fun it has. My wife's Mustang is an EcoBoost, and I tend to put it through its paces the once-in-blue-moon time I drive it. Combine that with GDI fuel injection, where 200 PSI at idle is the norm (it was 60 PSI with ordinary fuel injection) and new piston rings that I can squeeze with my bare hands is a recipe for engines prematurely wearing out if you drive like a maniac constantly. Gas is a solvent, and it bypasses weak piston rings at high RPMs, getting into the crankcase, that then creates more work for the PCV valve. Old engines like my Pontiac that have a carburetor are more durable than new engines. A more viscous oil is required because the piston rings are very stiff. Gas isn't easy to blow by the pistons, thus it's not producing a lot of work for the PCV valve. Weak piston rings for MPG, combined with turbochargers and GDI, are a recipe of premature engine wear if you're always hard on the throttle. | |||||
| Answer to: Why Are There So Many Recalls When Robots Help Assemble Vehicles? | 16Relevance | 2 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Robots don't design piston rings, etc. Some human designed the piston rings and the robot made them. Robots don't problem-solve; if the engineer royally screwed up, the robot who made the piston rings or whatever, screwed up as a result. Artificial Intelligence can problem-solve. We don't design cars using AI. | |||||
| Answer to: New Corolla uses 0W8 oil, yikes! | 16Relevance | 3 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It has a lot do to with low tension piston rings. I have a complete piston assembly from a 2010 Dodge Journey that I found at the scrapyard. That used 5W-20. You can squeeze piston rings with your hands. Back in the day, you needed special tools to even think about putting one inside of an engine. It's all in the name of getting better gas mileage, and I'm sure there is probably a lot of blow-by. | |||||
| Answer to: After driving through high water, cylinder 1 has low compression | 16Relevance | 3 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| No, there's nothing electrical in there. It's just a piston moving inside a cylinder. Either you have failed piston rings, or the engine ingested water and bent a rod. If you're lucky. There's a tiny chance the piston ring just has some rust on it and is getting hung up. You could try soaking it in some lube. | |||||
| Answer to: Should i purchase? 2000 Chevy 2500 6.0L | 21Relevance | 2 years ago | Dad2LM2 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Getting a working 3/4 ton for 5 Grand is pretty good, even a 20 year old one. The engine situation will need some homework on your part. The GM 6-liter was notorious for piston slap (excessive side to side movement of the piston in the bore), which led to premature engine wear. I suspect that was the reason for the replacement engine. But that raises the question: what are the details of the new engine? Does it have piston slap, too? Did the engine builder fix GM’s mistakes? (You can mitigate piston slap by using taller pistons with a slightly larger diameter.) For sure, I would want to listen during a cold start (when the slap is more pronounced). But it’s probably ok. Don’t forego an inspection, though, because a truck that old is bound to have other issues you’ll want to know about. | |||||
| Answer to: 1.8 liter improvement | 21Relevance | 4 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| What are you talking about? The piston doesn't extinguish the flame, consuming all of the fuel available in the power stroke extinguishes the flame. The burn is finished before the piston reaches Bottom Dead Center. If it tried to return toward Top Dead Center while burning were still in progress, you would hear a knocking sound or the engine would outright tear itself apart. The flame itself lasts only a tiny fraction of a second in the overall power cycle, the resulting heat and pressure rise are what drives the piston back down. Advancing ignition timing when the engine is revving up and retarding it when revving down is how you control the finish point of the combustion. The fuel/air mixture doesn't burn at the same rate at all RPMs. | |||||