Notifications
Clear all
Search result for: parking brake
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Check Parking Brake System - Toyota Avensis 2015-2018 | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | mj8889 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty I've got the "Check parking Break System" and Engine Management Light illuminated. The parking break seems to be working fine though so I'm puzzled! The cruise control and speed limiter also does not seem to work when this is on.. I guess they are related? Is this common on Toyotas? Thanks | |||||
| Answer to: Parking Brake | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | FJCruiser2014 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It's pretty normal for people who park their car in an uphill position even in their driveway and in such cases one uses the parking brakes. Also, specially in cold weather it is suggested to let the car run a bit and warm up before driving and so in such cases you can just leave the car in the position it is with parking brakes engaged until it warms up. So no, no harm would happen to the car. | |||||
| Frustrated - Brake Fluid (Lexus ES 300 1999) | 26Relevance | 2 years ago | jhomer42 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi all, So I have not had any brake issues, but I want to prevent any possible issue staying on top of maintenance and proper fluid levels and etc. I haven't had a brake fluid flush for 18k miles or so, but I want to make sure the fluid is OK in the brake master cylinder. So I purchased a black electrode brake fluid tester, some brake fluid from the lexus dealer, but even the lexus dealer brake fluid shows as 4% on the tester (this is the second tester). This is also the second bottle of lexus brake fluid that shows as having a 3 or 4% level on the brake fluid tester (which supposedly means you need to get it replaced). Why is the fluid directly from the lexus dealer, which is sealed and capped, giving me a moisture reading? Should I trust the tester and a get third bottle or just put in the new fluid and not worry about it? I mainly want to make sure my brake parts aren't dealing with dirty/old fluid. In a few thousand miles, I want to do a full bleed and flush but not right now. Thank you for any and all insights. | |||||
| Brake calipers dragging alternatively | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | Jaunty | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello! My 2006 Ford E350 Super Duty van w/6.8 V-10, 5R110W 5-speed automatic and 264,000 miles shows no trouble codes. This is a virtually rust-free Floridian ex-fleet vehicle (at least twice!), and I suspect its later years saw mistreated brakes (foot resting on pedal). Otherwise, it seems mechanically sound (I've owned for 2 years, yet rarely driven). The front rotors are bad (glazed, yet true), the calipers are old rebuilds (thus marked during service) which I have re-greased, and the master cylinder may be original. Upon purchase, I did replace the rear rotors because the right one was nearly disintegrated. I also found the front left caliper sticking after driving, and after self-diagnosing (opening the bleeder valve released it), all calipers were greased with hi-temp CRC synthetic (the slides were not pretty, but not deteriorated) and both front OEM flex hoses were replaced. The system's fluid was also flushed out (by me) using homemade tube/plastic bottle set-up at each bleeder valve consecutively from furthest to nearest the master cylinder. While there MAY be air in the system due to a fault of mine, it would be slight and is not noticed in braking action. Note, the fluid was VERY bad. Nearly black and quite odorous. The brakes now worked without issue. Shortly after buying the van and doing above work, I did manage to tow a 10,000 pound trailer 1,000 miles (FL to TN) without brake trouble. Now, over a year later (again, rarely used van. Driven maybe once a month, 20-40 miles), I came across the front left caliper dragging again. Knowing that the rotors AND calipers would probably best be replaced (but money being an issue), I chose to experiment and replace the 60-70% worn pads (only) to see what happened. I used high quality exact-fit pads and was sure to level the fluid in master cylinder reservoir. Well, here's the reason for my question to you... First test drive saw the front left dragging again. (The dragging begins after some time/brake use. Perhaps 5~10 minutes/a couple applications.) I parked it and chose to drive it again a month later. However, I removed the ABS fuses (5 & 60 amp) to see if any change was noted. This time, the RIGHT front caliper began dragging (and pulling, of course) and I was inclined to pull over while nearly to house. The RF brake assembly smoked for a couple of minutes as it sat. I got it back after a 30 minute cool down. So, while the van has the weak points I've mentioned, I'd like to find out what the immediate cause of trouble is. I can add these notes: The brake fluid is again fairly dirty-looking. My 2-years ago process likely replaced all of the fluid, but in that time and only maybe 2,000 miles, it looks dark/bit smelly again. Maybe that's normal. Don't know; lifting each wheel to turn and check for cold drag (unheated), the left front showed some resistance, and the left rear as well. The right front however (the last to be a problem) spun freely; at least once, I have heard the hissing sound of the vacuum-power brake booster while in the driver's seat. It certainly is not a regular occurance; there are no leaks/loss of reservoir fluid. I'm simply confused, even after looking up lots of DIY info online and tips as to symptoms/causes. Realizing it could surely use a $500~$700 (my DIY cost) brake overhaul, I'd like to know what the immediate problem is. Can it be AIR in the lines? Might a worn/dirty master cylinder behave thus? Could a poorly operating power brake booster cause slight brake application? Even with ABS disengaged, can the pump or proportioning valve (does this have a separate proportioning valve?) cause such issues as alternating brake drag? Simply, I'm more old-school-oriented regarding cars. I just don't know the possible complexities of this van's braking system. As for ABS being unplugged, I've the same set-up on my Toyota Yaris for years. I haven't a desire for ABS is all. Used to old cars. If I could completely bypass it, good. If I can fix this issue of dragging, I'd at least feel comfortable driving the van again. Then, I'll probably splurge for new goodies all around -knowing they need it, regardless of their sufficient functioning. THANK YOU for reading all of this (if you did). Otherwise, I don't blame you at all. | |||||
| Answer to: Mercedes parking brake disengage | 22Relevance | 2 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Assuming the parking brake is cable-operated you could try disconnecting the cables at the calipers and see if that releases the brake. | |||||
| Electric parking brake problem | 22Relevance | 3 years ago | Gmarair | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| toyota avensis manual 1.6d 2018, the auto brake failed to disengage my dash lit up with 4 yellow warnings including the engine management symbol. it also has check parking brake displayed. Which I can’t get rid of for more than 20seconds. Is there a way to try and reset the system or is this a Toyota dealer ship only? im praying this isn’t an ECU issue as can’t afford to replace. Any ideas? | |||||
| Answer to: I have a 2015 Ford mustangs and the brake lights will not turn off when I turn the ignition off | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| There's an L bracket welded to your brake pedal lever (up top) that's supposed to have a brake pedal stop pad. They're made of plastic, disintegrate, and fall out. When that happens instead of the brake switch's plunger being pushed in by the pad to turn off the brake lights, the brake switches "plunger" goes into the hole where that pad should be mounted into and your brake lights stay on. The brake pedal stop pad looks like this It goes on this L bracket on your brake pedal assembly: CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE TO SEE IT If this is the problem you can do a google search for: "Brake Clutch Pedal Stop PAD Switch Stopper". They're easy to find | |||||
| 1998 Honda Accord Brake System Concerns | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | Sunny Dan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty & Scotty car community, I have some concerns regarding the braking system on my daily driver 1998 Honda Accord LX 4 door sedan, 2.3L 4 cylinder VTEC, with last known mileage (November 2020) 183,43x miles, (odometer LCD broken & unreadable). I noticed the past few months that my brakes keep making squeaking noises when I either have to stop abruptly or depress the brake pedal to gradually slow down before a traffic light, stop sign, or yielding to pedestrians and other traffic. Is it something with the brake pads, calipers, or rotors that needs to be replaced? I never recall having the brake pads replaced ever since I have the car for like 6 years now. I only recall my mechanic taking off the brake rotors and using a machine to shave it down a few years ago. Also I am not sure if I should have the braking system fluids flushed and replaced, I feel my car does not stop quickly enough and I have to depress the brake pedal a little harder to come to a full stop. Many times (I know it's not a good idea), I would use my emergency handbrake to aid in stopping my car in time before I might whack into the car that may be in front of me. Even when I am fully stopped and I test the brakes by letting go and then immediately depress it quickly again (at 1-2 mph), the pedal feels very mushy and not very firm, and the car and my whole body does not jolt forward to stop quickly as normally expected. Could it be that I am low on hydraulic brake fluid again? I recall having that changed out a few years ago. I hope it's not a failing brake booster or any brake lines. I know I have been putting this off a bit (bc I have my money tied to a project car my 1989 Nissan Sentra), but I know this is serious business and could be dangerous to myself and other motorists around me if I have brake failure while driving and if I keep neglecting these concerns I have on the braking system on my car, what would you suggest Scotty (and community)? Thanks in advance and take care. P.S, I will have to upload a short video clip on youtube another time demonstrating my concerns and my car's braking. -Daniel. | |||||
| Answer to: 2010 Challenger RT 'Clunks" when Shifting from PARK to REVERSE on an Incline | 25Relevance | 1 year ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Pull the parking brake up, then put it in Park. You're stressing the heck out of your parking pawl when you just put the transmission in Park and you leave it sitting on an incline. Always pull the parking brake before setting the transmission into Park when you intend to Park on inclines. The owner's manual says this. That's because you're not putting pressure on the parking pawl. | |||||
| Answer to: Feeling a jerk when shifting from Park | 25Relevance | 4 years ago | Dan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| If you’re stoped by jamming your differential (something I don’t advise doing, you should be stopped using your parking brake with the parking pawl as a backup)- then you are going to feel the parking pawl disengagement and your differential being able to spin again. (Link to a pic showing how that works) If you aren’t jamming your diff/out put shaft (by not letting your car roll in P until it locks up and using the parking brake) - then no it’s usually not normal. On most cars, for most drivers, shift shock when shifting from P usually means you n ... | |||||
| Chevy Equinox with electric parking brake. | 22Relevance | 4 years ago | DJC | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| scotty. i have a 2018 chevy equinox 1.5 t. with 52000 km on it. it needs a brake job all the way around. it has an electric parking brake on rear rotors that needs to be retracted.is there any safe way to do this without using a scanner? does anybody sale an electric kit that i can plug into rear socket to retract piston? thanks | |||||
| RE: Electronic parking brake malfunction | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | 46TX7575 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I considered that but granted by law it is basically required to have a fully functioning pb I of course wouldn't consider asking my dealership about it. I was hoping there was a release lever but I didn't see anything like that where the brake pedal is. I'm going to keep researching on this especially since I've never experienced parking brake issues in any cars I've previously owned..it's all new to me. | |||||
| Answer to: Electronic parking brake malfunction | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | Kaizen | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I recommend learning how to manual disable the parking brake. In BMW’s there is a special tool that comes with the car, that you can use to disable the brake. There is a wire that needs to be pulled in the trunk. Ideally you wouldn’t need to do this. But it is good to know. electronic brakes seem to be getting more common now, even with cars like RAV4, Altima, and may be more. | |||||
| Parking brake | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | Conanharris | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Scotty I have a 2017 Hyundai Sonata with 120K miles. My parking brake goes to the floor. Does it need to be adjusted or do I need new brake drums. | |||||
| Answer to: Intermittent Parking brake light | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | JoshuaTheMechanicNoob | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi! You can check if the brake light switch is busted? By the way, check if the wirings aren't grounded or anything too! Just a little pull or 3 or 4 clicks of the parking brake and if it stops the vehicle already, that would be an ideal adjustment. But don't over or under do it. | |||||