Scotty:
I have a 2001 Chevy 2500HD, 4x4, with the 6.0L Vortec Engine. He has 205,000 miles on him and runs great. Looks good too.
I was throwing an EGR code for a long time. After cleaning the EGR, cleaning the ports, as demonstrated by you, I still got the EGR error code. I finally replaced EGR with an OEM part and after erasing the code(s), the Service Engine Light came back on and I got an EGR code. I have been driving around with the Service Engine Light ever since. For a few years in fact!
Recently, I saw you recommended the Blue Driver Scan tool. I bought it. And I read the codes again and sure enough, he is throwing an EGR code. Blue Driver’s recommended fix is to replaced the EGR valve or the wiring harness. Well since I already changed the EGR valve, I do not want to do it again.
I recently cleaned the plug going into the EGR valve with electrical contact cleaner. I erased the code. I did not replace the wiring harness as I cannot find where it goes from the EGR valve. Into the fuse box?
But on the Blue Driver scan tool, it showed a “future” problem with the mass air sensor? Not sure how that works - it can see things that may be wrong? Or may be going bad?
Could this be related to the EGR issue as well?
Anyway, HELP! How do I stop the EGR code? I do not want that Service Engine Light coming on again!
Thanks in advance.
Bob
Please post the full DTC code and definition. Thanks.
P0400. EGR “A” Flow.
Well, after I installed three Dorman exhaust manifold clamps, I guess the pressure from the clamps, and maybe the warped manifold, conspired to break the right front passenger exhaust manifold bolt. And the Service Engine Light came on again.
Dorman clamps DO NOT work with EGR valve brackets, and I happen to have an EGR valve bracket located on the front passenger side.
But KRAL’s exhaust manifold clamp does indeed work with the EGR valve bracket - it slips behind it and you use both of the bolts from the EGR bracket and one that is supplied by KRAL.
So I bought a KRAL front passenger clamp and installed it today. It is more difficult than what the KRAL directions indicate because there is “stuff” in the way, but I got her done.
And as soon as I installed it, the Service Engine Light went out!
One last issue - I saw that there is one more bolt broke off in the center of the passenger side and KRAL does indeed make a “Single” bolt installation for just such an occurrence. I will be ordering one right now and installation should be easy as nothing is in the way.
Yes, it is not the “correct fix,” but it is “a” fix. And a heck of a lot cheaper.
Thanks for the report!
Well I would advise paying a mechanic to check it out in person because it could be the wiring or it could be a failure in the main computer of the PCM. And mechanic like myself can easily test it out with his fancy scan tool by doing bi-directional testing of the system using his fancy scan tool. If you bought an oem EGR valve odds are it's either the wiring or the computer and I've seen both happen
Thanks, Scotty!
Scotty!
I put on Dorman exhaust clamps to address the broken exhaust manifold bolts which created leaks. After installing them, I drove the truck and within 500 feet, the Service Engine Light went out. When I got home, I use my Blue Driver code reader: NO MORE EGR CODE! In fact, no codes at all!
I have had an EGR code
For the second time, what is the full code and definition please?
A friend is borrowing my truck as he had an accident with his and I am not currently using it. As soon as I get it back, I will rerun the code reader and give you the exact code. I use a Blue Driver, as recommended by Scotty some time ago! It is not a fancy code reader, but works for what I do.
The code is P0400, and indicates: EGR “A” Flow.
I have previously installed a new EGR valve, after trying to clean the old one. Cleaning did not solve the problem. I also tried to clean the ports, etc. To no avail.
Again, I am curious if an exhaust manifold leak (4 bolts have broken off), which I am about to fix when I get my truck back, would throw the code?
Thanks for any help.
Bob
I am curious if an exhaust manifold leak ... would throw the code?
yes. Of course.
I put on Dorman exhaust clamps to address the broken exhaust manifold bolts which created leaks. After installing them, I drove the truck and within 500 feet, the Service Engine Light went out. When I got home, I use my Blue Driver code reader: NO MORE EGR CODE! In fact, no codes at all!
Scotty:
I have a 2001 Chevy 2500HD. I have multiple exhaust leaks, as is common with the LS engine. I have had an EGR code for years and no matter what I have done, following your instructions, it always comes back.
Could the exhaust leaks be the reason I can’t get rid of the EGR code?
I am going to fix the exhaust leaks using the clamps that Dorman and others are making for this problem. I do not want to go crazy and try to remove the exhaust manifolds to get to the broken bolts because I am afraid that more of them will break. After all, my truck as 208,000 miles on it!
Thanks in advance!
Bob
The only correct repair is to remove the exhaust manifold, and remove and replace the broken bolts, or better yet, use studs for the installation and plenty of anti-sieze compound.
Of course I realize that is the “correct” repair, but on a 22 year old truck, with 208K miles, the “correct repair would cost…. North of $1500? The Dorman clamps cost me $75.00. And a few hours of work.
But, I cannot deny you are correct.
But in the cost/benefit analysis, the clamps win hands down.
And they worked as advertised. And My Service Engine Light went out, and that was an EGR code.
The clamps appear to be made quite well, by the way.
But thanks for commenting.
Hope it lasts for you.