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How do I fix parasitic battery drain

  

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Hi Scott and community,

iv recently ran into two issues with my Honda Accord 2003 manual transmission sedan.  
 1) I have noticed that my battery has been mysteriously draining. I had thought that my original problem was that I needed a new battery but noticed that even after replacing it it was still draining.  Any idea how to troubleshoot and/or fix this issue.

2) recently When I start the car it starts to rev.  I’m not sure why this is happening.

 

many help would be appreciated 


3 Answers
1

1. https://youtu.be/B__DqK90IIc

Posted by: @srihari05yahoo-com

2) recently When I start the car it starts to rev.  I’m not sure why this is happening.

 

Does it happen regardless of the engine temeprature? Does the rpm drop when the engine warms up?


Hi yaser
Thank you for taking my question.

The car when started starts normally, then after a few minutes it continues to rev. Regardless of if the car is warmed up or temperature.


Also what gauge wire should you use and what how many amps does the connector need to be rated at?


Clean the MAF sensor and throttle body. For the amp reading, use the voltmeter cables and follow Scotty's video check the readings


So in the process of removing my throttle body it looks like a stripped the screw for the iac control valve, any ideas on how to get it out.


Can you share the picture?


Hi I was actually able to take it to shop near by here and they removed the screw for me, I cleaned the throttle body and iac valve with throttle body cleaner and reinstalled, I’m still getting a rough idle, I’m planning on putting together a smoke machine and testing for leaks next. I’m thinking it’s a vacuum leak somewhere.


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For the reving check the idle air  control valve (iac)Another cause of that is vacuum leak or pcv valve. So check the lines for break booster and manifold. As for battery is. Your alternator might be failing. Check battery terminals and make sure they are clean and tight. If that doesn't solve issues bring alternator and  battery to auto zone and have tested


Hi I believe I found the source of the leak, there was roughly a 3 amp intermittent draw when tested the drop across the negative terminal. I realized it was the alarm so I removed it. As for the rough idle I checked the air intake hose and realized the connector was completely hardened and had a crack in the pipe which I replaced .

This causes the rough idle to decrease lower at 1000 rpm and it is now rapidly idling at 1000 rpm and about 1500 rpm

Not sure what to do at this point, I do hear a hissing noise by the air filter, not sure if this is something or maybe another leak in any of the other hoses. I also cleaned the throttle body and sprayed half a can ofseafoam while the the accelOrator was pushed


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Don't use seafoam, Its not good to use. Not even the upper cleaner spray is that good. Seafoam is made for 2 stroke engines. Even tho market it as a cleaner for everything. As for the hissing l, I cant remember if that is normal with these cars. I know some Honda engines just made that noise. My b20 in my crv made a slight hiss. I just readjusted the idle screw and It wasn't as loud . In this case you just have to really look it over. If this was my car I would get propane, turn on just the gas and slowly check the entire system. If there is a leak there will be a change in tone of engine. Also I would have my scanner hooked up and looking at live data. If there is a leak the propane will cause it to richen up. At least you figured out the current draw. The easiest way to confirm is to pull the fuse and see what happens. This the draw stops you found the cause.


Thanks guys, just started by uninstalling my whole air intake system. Then removed the trhrottle body and aic valve, but there are there’s throttle cables holding the throttle body in place, any idea how to remove those? Would just like to give my throttle body and iMac a good cleaning.


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