2011 Accord: heater only works if dial is past 4oclock position - otherwise nothing
The heater works - sort of. I'll get heat, LOTS of it, if the dial is turned past a certain point. Below that point (the threshold being roughly 4 oclock on the heater dial) the air blows with minimal heat. It's acting like a toggle: really hot vs almost nothing with a TINY movement of the heater dial.
On a very cold day, the dial has to be moved back and forth across the threshold, between chilly and roasting, to get some semblance of normal heat.
I suppose it's better than no heat, but a normal gradation again would be awesome.
Thanks in advance if anyone's seen this and knows what's going on.
(wife's car BTW, the '04 accord is sold)
2011 Accord: heater only works if dial is past 4oclock position - otherwise nothing
The heater works - sort of. I'll get heat, LOTS of it, if the dial is turned past a certain point. Below that point (the threshold being roughly 4 oclock on the heater dial) the air blows with minimal heat. It's acting like a toggle: really hot vs almost nothing with a TINY movement of the heater dial.
On a very cold day, the dial has to be moved back and forth across the threshold, between chilly and roasting, to get some semblance of normal heat.
I suppose it's better than no heat, but a normal gradation again would be awesome.
Thanks in advance if anyone's seen this and knows what's going on.
Your blower motor may going bad. There's tiered switching from low to max -less resistanceequals a faster blower. If the blower doesn't do anything until it's on max, that's more than likely your problem. The blower motor has resistors that can go out due to excess heat from the blower motor itself wearing out. If the blower is drawing too much current, the resistors will eventually pop. Turning the blower to max causes the current to not experience any resistance, beyond the resistance of the motor itself, and is dangerous because the blower is still drawing too much current.
replace the motor and speed resistors
