Hey Scotty! I have a 2015 Corolla and the ac quit working. I had a local shop look at it and they said the compressor needs replaced. The car has 125k miles. Just seems really odd for it to just go out. What do you think? Anything I should check first before spending $2500 on the compressor. Is the common issue? While researching the compressor it's one that runs all the time and doesn't have a standard clutch like I'm used to seeing. I don't drive the vehicle much at all would it hurt the vehicle by driving and leaving the ac off?
@rocktheglock19 - Life is betta with a Baretta! HA!
What do you think?
you can always get a second opinion somewhere else.
Is the common issue?
it really depends. Often compressors fail from lack of use. A/C needs to be used on a regular basis.
would it hurt the vehicle by driving and leaving the ac off?
If you no longer want AC then you need a different belt to bypass the pulley. Sometimes a kit is needed.
I'm not an AC guy but I live in FL so I have to work on them every now and then.
First, it won't hurt the vehicle to run it and it doesn't matter if you have the AC switched to ON or OFF.
Those variable displacement compressors have a safety feature in case the compressor locks up. (worse case scenario). It keeps a seized compressor from taking out the serpentine belt.
You have a toyota so it's a denso that's similar if not identical to the one in this picture for an audi.
Here's what the pulley (it's plastic believe it or not) and the sheer plate looks like.
Also, it's not a "clutch" like the description says.
The only mechanical connection between the pulley and the compressor shaft is the sheer plate.
Those rubber "legs" on the sheer plate fit into rubber slots in the pulley but they're just for dampening. They aren't the mechanical connection between the pulley and the compressor shaft.
Here's a better view of the sheer plate from the "pulley side".
I pointed to the "sheer points" in the plate.
You can see how if these break because the compressor locks up, the pulley can still freely spin even with the rubber dampeners on the sheer plate still engaged with their pulley dampener counterparts.
That's why you're OK to run your Corolla with a bad variable displacement compressor.
So as far as things you should check depends on if you're capable of checking things.
First you could check if you can spin the sheer plate hub and the pulley doesn't move.
That would tell you that the sheer plate broke but the compressor isn't locked up.
Maybe the plate just failed. In that case a $35 sheer plate (hub plate) could put you back in business.
But that depends on if there's enough clearance to remove the plate while the compressor is in the car. If the compressor has to be removed, then that's a different story. (recovering refrigerant, labor, refilling the system) is going to balloon that $35 into several hundred real fast.
Also those compressors have a control valve and the reason they don't need a clutch is because the computer controls the valve through a pulse width voltage signal.
If the control valve is shorted they stop working.
It comes down to if your shop is reputable and like @mmj suggested, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get a second opinion from another shop
So!!!! I was checking the high pressure sensor, relay and the two plugs down at the compressor and just like that I HAVE AC!! I assume it's a bad connection somewhere? You all just saved me $2500! I appreciate all of you!
Marked as solved.
Why $2500? The compressor costs about $260 at Rock Auto.
I'll see if I can spin the pulley tonight and keep you posted. Thank you all!
So an update... While the vehicle is off I can spin the ac pump. While the car is running with the ac off it doesn't spin. When I turn on the ac the compressor spins. Seems like it's an old type compressor? What would my next step be? Thank you all for your help!
Sure sounds like it has a traditional clutch. Can you let us know the make and model of the compressor? There should be a tag on it.
Found a sticker with denso 6sas14c. And c not sure if the next is an 0 or G 447250-0390
It looks like that compressor does have a clutch.
https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-Nippondenso-6SAS14C-Compressor/dp/B0789PHWV2
Think it was a loose wire or something because I unplugged everything and plugged it all back in and it works!
Today I took the car down the road for 35 minutes or so. Ac only works while I'm idiling. Driving down the road the ac downst blow cold but when I come to a stop it cools. Any ideas?
Does it do the same thing if you're standing still in neutral and revving the engine to the same RPMs as when cruising? Assuming it does, is the compressor being cut off and if so what are system pressures just before it happens?
I was testing the continuity on the high pressure 3 prong switch and it's not getting continuity. Think I should replace it? I also replaced the relay in the fuse box and nothing changed.
If I do replace the high pressure switch does it have a check valve? So I don't empty the entire ac system
Today I drove an hour away the outside temp was about 92 and the ac would work at random. On the way back the outside temp was 72 and it stayed on the entire time I had to see it to low so it wouldn't freeze me. Ideas?
I'll hook up the pressure regulator tomorrow and get the readings. What should they be?
port fuel injection usually runs at around 50-60psi.
Direct injection - in the hundreds.
For the ac? Not testing the fuel pressure
Pressures you'll see depend on the ambient temperature. Do an internet search for "R134a pressure chart".
How do I post pictures on this?
please read the topic called "READ THIS FIRST".
It's at the top of the main page.
I googled the r134a chart and it look like I have to much pressure? As in I need to let some out? The guages pic I posted it was about 75 outside
??? That picture appears to just be showing static pressure with the system turned off. That doesn't tell us anything other than that there is refrigerant in the system and there is no blockage bad enough to prevent the high and low sides from equalizing when it's not running. (Or, if it is running when that photo was taken, the compressor is not doing much of anything.)
What should it be? I'll take a few more pics tonight
If you have not worked with a manifold gauge set for AC diagnosis before search on youtube, there are plenty of videos demonstrating how to do it.
Hey sorry for the delay I took a video today. The outside temp was 75. The car has been sitting for a few days. https://youtu.be/YzxZamT_fRI
It ran the ac fine for about 5 minutes or so and then the ac stopped working. The guages went back to the first part of the video. One thing I noticed which might not be anything the car only has one radiator fan while the car got to operating temps the fan shut off. Didn't know if that would mean anything. When the ac stopped that's when I noticed the radiator fan wasn't moving.
The pressures while the AC is running look OK for that ambient temperature. It appears you've got some kind of electrical or computer problem cutting off the compressor.
The fan(s) should run when the compressor is running. If I understand you correctly, your radiator fan is shutting off when the compressor cuts out.
I can get a fan module for 60 bucks but wanted some input. Thank you all again!
Temp outside is 75 should be 35-45 on low and high should be 150-170; But I'm getting 25-35 and almost 200. I'm referencing a r134a chart I found online
That's "by the book" - under real operational conditions you don't always quite match that. I have vehicles where that's the case and the AC works just fine nonetheless. It's "close enough for government work".
What counts here for purposes of figuring out why your AC is cutting out is that your low side is not going into vacuum, and thus not triggering the low-pressure safety cutout. Likewise your high side is not getting dangerously high to the point where an over-pressure sensor would cut out the compressor. Pressure readings are within reason.
You would need to obtain the shop manual for your AC system for the particulars of what sensors you have and what conditions trigger them.
But you don't think it's an issue with the compressor? Just something going on with the sensors?
Why would it be a compressor fault? It's developing reasonable pressures and you haven't said anything about it making bad noises.
The only compressor-related items I can think of that might be at fault would be a control valve or clutch, depending on what you have.. (Rockauto shows replacement compressors for that model have a clutch and they do not list a control valve, but their listings are not always 100% accurate. Once again, the shop manual for your AC system would tell you for sure.)
Assuming your compressor does have a clutch (you can verify that visually) it would be pretty trivial to test. Use a multimeter to monitor the voltage going to the clutch coil and see what it does when your AC shuts down. If there is no voltage at that point, you have an electrical/electronic issue shutting off the clutch. On the other hand if voltage stays on then the clutch coil is at fault. Since your radiator fan is also shutting down when the AC quits you'll likely find that both the fan and compressor clutch are being shut down by your vehicle electronics. Really you need a fancy bidirectional scan tool to do a proper diagnosis of that stuff.
Ok I'll have another shop look at it and get back to you. I know now it's not an issue with the compressor.
I can see the clutch disengage when I turn off the ac. But during the test it was spinning and wasn't cooling
Are you sure the center part of the clutch was still spinning when the AC cuts off by itself? Is there another wiring harness going tinto the compressor aside from the clutch coil? On rockauto.com photos I'm seeing a connector that appears to be an integral control valve on the back of the compressor. If so you still need to see what the electronics that control the valve are doing and for that you need a fancy scan tool.
Another photo showing both the clutch wiring and that rear connector:
So I think where you are with this, if the compressor clutch is staying engaged when the AC cuts off it's probably going to come down to either what appears to be the control valve in the compressor or the electronics controlling it. The control valve looks to be integral with the compressor so if that has gone bad, yes you would need a new compressor. However it needs further diagnosis. (We don't have a shop manual containing details on your AC system and we don't know how the first shop came to their conclusion about the compressor.)
Can I get this site on an app on my phone?
No. You have to use a web browser.
HELP! Needing some major help! I have a 2015 Corolla and I'm replacing the ac compressor. The issue I'm running into is that the compressor that came with it has two plugs one for the clutch and the other for the compressor. The new one from Toyota and at advanced only have one connector for the compressor and none have the clutch style. The new style is a constant running compressor. So should I install the new one and don't worry about the clutch connector?
Oh and I had the local ac shop and the Toyota dealership say it's a bad compressor
This is the connector: https://postimg.cc/RqJYxD5d
And t also has some kind of sensor? That plugs into the compressor housing:
Please use the direct link function for the image to appear here, seamlessly.
Sorry about that. What should I do? Hook it up and see what it does? Just worried about the computer needing that other connector to be plugged in
So I'm replacing my ac compressor and I'm running into several issues. The factory one that came on the car is a clutch style while everything I'm finding for replacement are clutchless. The Toyota dealership and all parts stores are calling for the same clutchless type. My question is can I just use the clutchless kind and what should I do to the 3 pin connector for the clutch? The 3 pin connector has one going to the clutch, one going to some type of sensor that plugs into the compressor housing. The new compressor doesn't have any of this. <a href='https://postimg.cc/RqJYxD5d' target='_blank'><img src='https://i.postimg.cc/RqJYxD5d/20220624-213632.jpg' border='0' alt='20220624-213632'/></a>
Is there a part number on that sticker on your old Denso compressor?
I called Toyota and they provided the compressor part 88310-az020 but it comes up as a condenser. They also sent me the diagram
It looks like the one for the 2016 Corolla is a better fit.
click to enlarge
