Suzuki Grand Vitara V6- 2006
Hi!
First, I know next to nothing about cars.
Second, I'm sorry, but this is a little long. I've tried to explain as best as I can. Additionally, my recollection of these events might not be perfect, but as this has been an issue spanning several months with several issues and with someone not particularly knowledgeable about cars, I hope you can understand.
I have a Suzuki Grand Vitara V6, year 2006 with 184,505 miles on it. It's an automatic, and I have three codes right now: P0401 EGR A Flow Insufficient Detected and P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2 and p0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance.
The issues: Doesn't always crank. Almost violently shakes when idling, or stopped/coming to a stop. Seems to drive just fine. It's been in and out of shops for about one-two months.
As brief as a history as I can muster:
Due to a cranking issue about eight or nine months ago, I've had the EGR valve replaced, which seemed to fix the issue, albeit sometimes the engine seemed to have a hard time "turning over" to running, it did start.
Shortly after, however, I had a coolant line bust and had to get it towed to a shop, where they "replaced" the line (I don't know how to verify this) and for maintenance purposes they suggested I replace the drive belts, so I did. I got it back, it was "squealing", I took it back, they said they "forgot to tighten" the belts, they tightened them and it was fine.
Fast forward to one-two months ago. Everything seemed OK. I was coming home from work, got gas, came home. Parked. It sat for like, 2-3 days? I went to crank it to go to work, and I noticed a hesitancy, but for me, that was nothing terribly new. Thought maybe the battery needed to charge, so I drove it to work. While driving, I noticed a slight tremble of the engine. Shuddering, I guess? Not really shaking, but shuddering every few seconds. After that, this shuddering seemed to get worse, and after work, it took about 3-4 tries, with my foot pressing on the gas, holding for like 6 seconds to get the engine to "turn over" and run.
After that, I was afraid to drive it at all. I've taken it to multiple shops near me, and they all say they are going to replace the EGR valve as that's the only code they are getting. The one that initially did the work to replace the EGR valve told me he had "no idea" what was wrong as the EGR "was working as it should" and that my car "would NOT leave me stranded." Thinking it was possibly water in the gas- he put something in there to help it evaporate, I guess? Well, following his advice, I drove it to work and to the grocery store after work. I went to leave the grocery store, and it. wouldn't. crank.
I called family thinking I might need them to come pick me up. I tried probably eight or more times to crank it. Finally, I decided to just sit there, wait a couple minutes, and try again. I did, and it cranked. Praise (whatever God you believe in.)
I drove home. Since then, I've taken it to other shops and they just scan it with the reader and say "oh, it says EGR valve insufficiency, lets replace it for $700." I say I've already had it replaced, and they all seem to just throw their hands up in confusion.
With that said, knowing next to nothing about cars, I've tried to educate myself a little bit. I bought a multimeter that also checks for codes, I've checked any hosing I can see (which, by the way, the intake was not hooked up at all on the front. It was just kind of loosely attached. So I used zip ties to the best of my abilities. Did I mention I'm not a mechanic? Lol. FYI nobody has mentioned the zip ties. I even asked a shop to replace them while it was and they didn't.)
Using the multimeter, I checked the voltage to the alternator, normal and under stress. It seemed to be working normally, I can give you those numbers if you need them. I also checked the battery, and there seemed to be sufficient charge being held, and it was charging when cranked. I wasn't surprised, as it's a relatively new battery.
In the past, when it was running "rough", I've run seafoam through it. So I did this again. No improvement really, other than getting a variety of new codes that were gone by the time I got it back from the shop. In fact, all the codes were gone for a minute, before getting P0401 and P0430, and today, the new p0101.
I've tried to check the fuses, but I don't really know how, as information about my particular model is limited. I also might be missing the little "fuse puller".
Anyway, I'm lost and don't really know what to do. There used to be a Suzuki repair shop about an hour away, but it's closed now.
Everyone seems to treat me like I'm not their problem, and I can't keep borrowing my mom's car forever. Technically she would let me, but that wouldn't make me the best daughter, and I don't want to keep her from her time to do what she wants.
ANY advice would be appreciated.
If it helps to know, I live in Georgia, but not in Atlanta any longer, where they test for emissions. Therefore they don't check for emissions here.
Don't take this the wrong way but I believe your best bet would be to get rid of this thing in favor of a newer vehicle that's in in better condition. That vehicle is 24 years old with high mileage, which is not a great prospect for someone who is not familiar with cars and can't do their own repair work. Also Suzuki cars have been out of the American market for about a dozen years now which complicates the situation even more. As you have discovered a lot of mechanics just don't want to deal with it.
Well 184,505 miles is a lot of miles but you say it runs good sometimes so I'd suspect the old girl still has some life in her.
I'd address that P0101 code because that one can explain your issues.
What causes that code?
So the first possible cause is "clog or leakage" in the air intake system and you're using a zip tie on the intake hose. You need to get the hose clamp to tighten that intake hose securely to make sure you aren't getting "unmetered air" into the throttle body because your MAF sensor is in your air filter box. Inspect the hoses and all parts/ducts of the intake between the air filter box and the throttle body.
The second and third causes could be a bad MAF sensor or a Bad MAP sensor or their circuits.
Now since you have limited troubleshooting abilities, testing these circuits is probably above your skill set. But you can disconnect their wiring connectors and look for obvious issues like corrosion or damage on the connectors so you can do that.
Again, since you have limited mechanical abilities you may have no other choice than to replace those two sensors and hope one of them fixes the problem. Don't buy the cheap ones, get OEM if you can.
Stop putting seafoam in it. That can create more problems.
