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[Solved] What should be my next step for 2000 Toyota Avalon XLS?

  

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Hello all,

 Here some context. Car has 130,000 miles  6 cylinder

Car was bought used, decided this to be my project car since i wanted to gain some experience on fixing cars. Needless to say the dash was all turned off and obvious the car had been in an accident and was fixed up by previous owner. Had two mechanics inspect the engine who said it was relatively new(owner mentioned he replaced it), transmission i switched out with one i got a a junkyard that turned out great.With the help of a mechanic that had a bit of free time the dash is back up. cables needed to be patched.

Check engine light is on

  • P1135 - A/F Sensor Circuit Heater Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1
  • P1155 - A/F Sensor Circuit Heater Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 1

 

ABS light turned on after performing 4 complete strut change aftermarket.

  • B0101 - Open in D squib Circuit -

-wondering if it turned on after finding out the bolt holding the driver side of the strut to I believe the knuckle is causing the car to be a bit offset for the steering wheel.

Im ordering the OEM bolt to fix the offset.

Final issue i have is the car has an electrical drain. Following Scotty's video I narrowed it down to the radio system after pulling out the fuse and having the car turn on after a week without use(before with the fuse connected it would drain after second day). I found the 3 ground points to the system and cleaned them with brass wire brush. Still drains after cleaning all three. I am assuming at this point its an individual wire. Will be purchasing a thermal imaging camera to help find this answer(any advise is welcomed)

 

Data Stream while engine on Idle on P will be bellow

# Codes 2 pcs
2nd OFF  
2nd air Monitor NA  
2nd air Monitor Complete
A/c Mag Clutch On  
A/c Monitor NA  
A/c Monitor Complete
A/c Sig On  
AF Ft B1 S1 0.99  
AF Ft B2 S1 0.99  
Af1 Test Complete
Af2 Test Complete
AFS B1 S1 3.29 V
AFS B2 S1 3.29 V
As Test Complete
Calc load 21.17 %
Catalyst Monitor Avail  
Catalyst Monitor Incomplete
Check Mode Off  
Complete Parts Monitor Avail  
Coolant Temperature 179.6 F
Cylinder #1 Misfire Count 0  
Cylinder #2 Misfire Count  0  
Cylinder #3 Misfire Count 0  
Cylinder #4 Misfire Count 0  
Cylinder #5 Misfire Count 0  
Cylinder #6 Misfire Count 0  
Cylinder #7 Misfire Count  0  
Cylinder #8 Misfire Count 0  
Egr Monitor Complete
Egr Monitor Not avl  
Elect load sig OFF  
Engine spd 657 Rpm
Evap Monitor Incomplete
Evap Monitor Available  
Evap VSV OFF  
FC IDL OFF  
FC TAU OFF  
Fuel pump On/h  
Fuel sys # 1 Oldrive  
Fuel sys # 2 OL  
Fuel Sytem Monitor  Avail  
Heated catalyst monitor Complete
Heatad catalyst monitor Not avl  
Iac duty ratio 41.1 %
IDL SIG On  
Ign advance 11 Deg
Ignition 241  
Injector 3.4 Ms
Intake air 136.4 F
Intake ctl vsv1 OFF  
Intake ctl vsv2 OFF  
Lock up sol OFF  
Long ft #1 -0.04 %
Long ft #2 -0.04 %
Low OFF  
MAF 4.31 Gm/s
Mile status On  
Misfire Load  0 G/rev
Misfire Monitor  Available
Misfire rpm 0 Rpm
O2FT B1 S2 99.15 %
O2S B1 S2 0.845 V
O2S(a/fs) heater monitor Complete
O2S(a/fs) heater monitor Available  
O2s(a/fs) monitor Incomplete
O2s(a/fs) monitor Available  
Overdrive cut sw1 OFF  
Overdrive cut sw2 OFF  
Oxs1 test Complete
Oxys1 test Complete
PNP SW On  
Ps oil press sw OFF  
Ps signal  On  
Purge vsv Close/off  
Reverse OFF  
Shift 1st  
Short ft #1  -0.04 %
Short ft #2 -0.04 %
Solenoid(sln) OFF  
SPD(NC2) 0 Rpm
Starter SIG OFF  
Stop light sw OFF  
Throttle pos 10 %
Total FT # 1 1.012  
Vapor pressure 0.12 psi
Vehicle spd 0 mph
VVT CTRL B1 On  
VVT CTRL B2 On  

Let me know. Many thanks.

 

 


3 Answers
1

Your car is a perfect example of why you don't want a car that has been wrecked and partially fixed by people who didn't know what they were doing before you bought the car. I would assume it has wiring problems and or computer circuit problems that were caused by the wiring a vehicle like that if you can get it to run find a drive around but do not expect perfectiona vehicle like that if you can get it to run find a drive around but do not expect perfection or you will spend a fortune tracing the wiring replacing computer modules and the like


1

Do a resistance check on the A/F sensor heater coils.. if they're open, then replace them.. If they're good, then check the sockets for power...   if none, then trace the circuit upstream and find the break.   Check them socket for proper ground path for the heater coils, should be provided by the ECM when turned on...   If that's bad, repeat the test at the ECM... if that's a fail, then the ECM is bad, or has a bad ground itself.    You probably broke a wheel sensor wire while replacing the struts... 


1

Do a resistance check on the A/F sensor heater coils.. if they're open, then replace them.. If they're good, then check the sockets for power...   if none, then trace the circuit upstream and find the break.   Check them socket for proper ground path for the heater coils, should be provided by the ECM when turned on...   If that's bad, repeat the test at the ECM... if that's a fail, then the ECM is bad, or has a bad ground itself.    You probably broke a wheel sensor wire while replacing the struts... 


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