I have a 2001 Honda CR-V 157,000 4wd auto, the car has no check engine light and very low idle and stalls when put in reverse or drive at a stand still or coming to a stop at the light. I got the battery and alternator tested which are good. I have changed fuel pump with new strainer, fuel filter changed, checked spark plugs which aren’t corroded or drenched in oil, no air leaks, air filter is clean, cleaned mass air flow sensor, idle air control valve and throttle body. I tightened the throttle cable but not too tight. I have also put some Lucas fuel injection cleaner but still stalls. What could it be ?!!
What could it be ?!!
It could be a lot of things on a 22-year-old vehicle. Have you scanned it for codes and live data that may give some clues?
So I looked at the live data and this is what is had. STFT B1 -12.5%, LTFT 0, map 20(inHg), fuel system 1 CL, fyl sys 2 N/A, calc load 64.3 %, ECT 144, IAT 91F, TPS 9.8%, O2S B1 S1 0.115v, STFT B1 S1 -14.1%, O2S B1 S2 0.855v, STFT B1 S2 -14.1%
Your short term fuel trim suggests that you may have leaky fuel injectors causing an overly rich mixture at idle and low speeds.
Get fuel injectors cleaned or replaced then huh
Yeah because at high speeds the car feels good. It’s just at idle and low speeds it feels terrible. Should I try that Burnese cleaner or BK44 ?
Dripping fuel injectors will be most noticeable at idle and low speeds. You can try cleaner but if the injectors are leaky due to wear they'll need to be replaced. As with anything else it is best to confirm the source of the problem before replacing parts.
I replaced the fuel injectors now it pops and hardly stay on? I checked for leaks and there are none. What can cause this ?
I replaced the fuel injectors now it pops and hardly stay on? I checked for leaks and there are none. What can cause this ?
Did you confirm the original injectors were bad first by seeing if they were leaking, and checking their spray patterns before replacement? Are the new injectors OEM? How about the new fuel pump you installed? (By the way, on this site when we suggest a particular part is suspect we mean that part should be tested before replacement.)
You're going to have to get deeper into diagnosis. Is fuel pressure at specification? What do your spark plugs look like after running that way? Are distributor cap, rotor, coil, and ignition wires in good condition? Is your catalytic converter badly clogged? How old is the timing belt?
Distributor cap and rotor was replaced and timing belt also cat in not clogged because when I put my hand on the tail pipe there is good pressure
Cat is probably OK then (it would have to be almost completely clogged if the engine will hardly run at all) but the right way to test for a clog is with a gauge connected upstream of the converter to see the actual back pressure.
Have you tested your MAF and upstream O2 sensor?
Spark plugs one and two are black
I hear a popping noise when I give the car gas as well
Spark plugs one and two are black
So, if it's a 4-cylinder engine it is pretty much running on two cylinders. That could certainly cause it to barely run.
Does it look like the plugs are oil fouled or more like they are carbon fouled?
Yes mainly number two is carbon fouled
That suggests that either those cylinders were getting too much fuel or there is an ignition problem. Running that way for any length of time can foul your catalytic converter.
It would not be a bad idea to verify engine condition with a compression test, maybe a leakdown test as well, just to make sure that you don't have an underlying internal engine problem.
Why would this happen after I have changed fuel injectors
Either the fuel injectors are not the problem or you got a couple of bad ones. (Were the plugs verified as clean before the injector swap?) Or, it's actually oil fouling rather than carbon fouling. As I've been saying you need to do more diagnosis.
I put the old injectors back on and it turns on and runs better.
Those must have been some pretty poor quality new injectors.
I bought Honda oem injectors
Regardless, if the old ones work better the new ones weren't much good.
I bought Honda oem injectors
I think you need to get back to basics, do compression and leakdown tests to verify the internal integrity of the engine. If you have an internal problem you're fighting a losing battle here. If it tests good then you can start more thorough diagnosis of other components. That's what I'd be doing if it were my car. In fact the last time I had a car running similar to yours I quickly discovered that after 200K miles it had a cracked exhaust valve. Installing a reconditioned cylinder head fixed the problem and it ran for another 200K miles. (Obviously I don't know if you have the same kind of problem but it is a possibility that should be checked.)
The car finally popped a check engine light the codes are P0302 misfire cylinder No2, P0304 misfire No 4, P0300 random misfire, P1399 misfire in any cylinder.
random misfire,
misfire is explained in our FAQ
Lost compression on cylinder number one cracked valve.
That would do it. (I had the same thing happen on a car quite a few years ago.)