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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| RE: Car was sitting for 30 months | 10Relevance | 4 years ago | Dan453 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have never heard of Toyota's fuel system cleaner. I'll look that up now. Thanks | |||||
| Answer to: Car was sitting for 30 months | 10Relevance | 4 years ago | G.T. | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Yes | |||||
| Answer to: Car was sitting for 30 months | 10Relevance | 4 years ago | Dan453 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Forgot to post mileage, all hghway 233,000 miles. Dan | |||||
| Answer to: Left car sitting for a year | 10Relevance | 4 years ago | G.T. | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Answer to: Left car sitting for a year | 10Relevance | 4 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Buy an inflator for $10 and put air in them. Then read the maintenance section of your owner's manual. | |||||
| Answer to: Started a car that was sitting a year or 2 | 10Relevance | 5 years ago | FadedK | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Ok got all the gas i could out of the tank, then changed the fuel filter(it was located under the passenger side door) and took it for a drive and it drove like a champ! Even the rattling in the Catalytic converter stopped, but im assuming it will come back with time. So now i just have to drive it to set the computer. Also yes that is some good advice about the pb blaster, i didn't even think of that, im going to write that one down for future reference, thanks. | |||||
| Answer to: Mercury Grand Marquis | 11Relevance | 5 years ago | LandYachtLover | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... 150,000 miles. Use only the Ford parts, the aftermarket ones have been nothing but junk and headaches for those that used them. 2. Lighting control module. Located easily under the dash above the gas pedal. Many have had their relays changed from 10A to 15A. You can pull the two connectors, slide it out, open it easily and check the relays pretty easily. You may have to Google the relay # to see the rating OR it's obvious on the back side of the board if a new solder job was done. 3. 2004 is the last year of drive-by-cable. The cars went to drive-by-wir ... | |||||
| 1976 Chrysler New Yorker won’t start | 10Relevance | 4 years ago | dogmaticmike | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... memories of the car, and he was so found of it, so we are going to store it until we can afford to fix it up. The problem is the only way to start the thing is to dump a small amount of gas right down the carb. if the car is sitting for more then 20 mins your have to dump more gas down the carb to start it back up. We ain’t going to drive the thing much if ever until i got some free cash to restore it - but in the mean time i am sick of dumping gas right down the carb. Any ideas - it was a daily driver until he got cancer about 3 years ago, allot of sitting ... | |||||
| 2006 Lincoln Navigator Throwing multiple codes | 10Relevance | 4 years ago | MoeFromGeorgia | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Just a FYI from the previous problem of my stuck back spark plug passenger side rear had to have Ford Pull cab and drill it out, got her back yesterday, about a 30-minute drive, pulled up in my yard happy as a lark, sitting letting her idol, and my tac, heat gauge started dipping to 0 then back to normal. the control screen started throwing all of the codes from 4WRD, trac control, engine light, battery light, on the far right side, I was getting data error, tire gauge pressure low, and it kept changing randomly. Turn car off then back on, same thing. car ... | |||||
| Toyota Avalon crank but wouldn't start | 10Relevance | 3 years ago | David Davo Essien | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Recently, a client called me to fix his 2000 Toyota Avalon car that cranked but wasn't starting.From the onset, the car experienced several mechanical, as well as, electrical issues. Some of those problems were:-(1) Engine Oil consumption;(2) Engine misfire;(3) Engine rattling;(4) Intermittent hard starting after shutdown; (5) Hard to engage in drive, except engine is hot; etc.Hence, he took the car to a garage inorder to rectify the excessive Engine oil consumption and other car problems highlighted above. Consequently, the car problems exacerbated after engine rebuild by the engineer! The car owner wasn't satisfied with his repairs because it seems the engineer was deceitful. Although the car started after the rebuild, the problems still persisted. Valves weren't grinded after engine overhaul, engine still misfired at idle and when accelerating, etc.The engineer whose garage the car is presently being parked, requested for another engine overhau/ rebuildl. After engine rebuild the car started, the oil was mixed with water; the engine was still misfiring, rattling, etc. It was obvious, that he didn't use durable parts to do his work. Hence, the car owner moved the car to another garage for better repairs. The new garage suggested to the car owner that another engine rebuild is pertinent for optimal engine operation. During my conversation with this engineer, whose garage the car is presently being parked, he told me that: "when the car was first brought in, he noticed a black smoke ( maybe he was mistaken for blue smoke, at exhaust tail at idle). When accelerating, there's a loss of power, engine bucking, popping,etc. After the rebuild, the car didn't start because the mechanic didn't unlock the car with the remote but proceeded directly to cranking the engine. In addition, the security relay wasn't actuated for starting to take place. Electrician did some wire cutting around that axis which he said was corrected to factory, opened with a remote before the car started. Fortunately, after everything, the car started again. But there was still an intermittent misfire. What the car owner said was that, 'even when the second mechanic did engine rebuild, the car still misfired. Until he personally bypassed earth from the COP wire to the solenoids very close to the fuel injector often tightened with 10mm knot and depicted with blue and green colors on the picture. car owner verified that the reasons for the misfire from both mechanics which still prevailed, was due to the solenoid valve that wasn't opening. That's why when accelerating it experienced a loss of power, similar to that experienced by a faulty fuel pump. After gear oil replacement and test driven by the second mechanic , smoke started emanating from the engine bay. Precisely, from the fan relay that the car owner connected by himself. Within few minutes, the car shutdown by itself as if fuel is finished. As he tried to restart it, the car refused to. Infact, when the ignition switch was turned to Acc/ ignition position, battery and fuel light was not displaying in the dashboard/ instrument cluster. However, during cranking battery light glew faintly and start. But when throttled, it would shutdown. Electrician verified and replaced the alternator diode with a new one. When Ignition switch was turned to Acc/ ignition position, the battery and other lights came out brightly but when cranked to start engine wouldn't start again. Sadly, it still wouldn't start. I tried to scan for DTC codes, but my scanner wasn't communicating. I checked all fuses, power and ground at obd port, those checked ok. but my scanner isn't compatible to read CAN network. there are only 4 wires intact for the obd2 port.Furthermore, I added fuel through the intake to the engine, no change at all. I checked for spark and injector pulse. These things weren't present. But there was power to injector with just the key at ignition or ACC and COP had 1 ground and 1 power as usual. Electrician from that garage, who also worked on the car said that he sniffed burning smell from the ECU, however personally I didn't when I went to start the car. I don't know how certain that was. Hence, I pulled out the ECU to a laptop board engineer to test the components inside. He said: "everything looks ok and test fine, however the IC he doesn't have the right tools to proceed with the test. With the ECU removed battery connected, Engine light would come ON. with ECU connected check light still comes ON.Before I left, I checked the MAF sensor 5 wires and noticed that 3 wires were earth instead of 2 and 1 power; no ignition current/ power was available for the remaining 2 wires. Please, what should I do to start the car? | |||||
| Should I perform an engine flush my 2010 Toyota Yaris? | 10Relevance | 4 years ago | komodoris | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... went to check the exhaust for white or smely fumes, but it doesn't present any of both symptoms. When i start the car, it does release some very light white fume, but it also doesn't smell like oil, more like gasoline, it fades after few minutes or seconds depending of the weather or the time the car was sitting even if the car is idling. Context (1st oil change) 2 years ago, i ran the car for months with a very heavy usage without any maintencance, until a day i was getting the oil pressure light/check engine light showing and few noises that seemed li ... | |||||
| 2006 Civic not starting after loud explosion when trying to pass somebody | 10Relevance | 4 years ago | Foreverlegion | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... behind the person. Did not dare try to pass again. So after about 5 minutes of driving at about 55mph we get to a red light. The whole 5 minutes of this drive I can tell I'm lacking well over half power. I slow down for the light and get to around 10mph and the car dies. She started right back up but I had to drop it to neutral and keep a feather on the gas pedal to hold it at around 900 RPMs or it was going to stall again. Have to do this for maybe seven or eight more lights and get to where I'm going. Stay there for about 4 or 5 hours and go and see if m ... | |||||
| Answer to: Replacing Lancer fuel filter | 10Relevance | 5 years ago | cmd_car | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... if this is a transmission issue)... I changed spark plugs, cleaned the throttle valve & MAF sensor, replace gasket cover..Only slight improvement... I tried to replace the fuel filter (with Silverline fuel filter -$10) and the bottom leaking badly. I tried with bottom washer /without washer same result..Removed and inspected … Flare sitting of the new silverline filter (Oval now) and the bottom washer, misaligned and damaged ...The old filter seems like below.It has thicker circular sitting-maybe better quality Tried again with Silver lin ... | |||||
| Answer to: 2006 civic no start with a story | 10Relevance | 4 years ago | Foreverlegion | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... to stay behind the person. Did not dare try to pass again. So after about 5 minutes of driving at about 55mph we get to a red light. The whole 5 minutes of this drive I can tell I'm lacking well over half power. I slow down for the light and get to around 10mph and the car dies. She started right back up but I had to drop it to neutral and keep a feather on the gas pedal to hold it at around 900 RPMs or it was going to stall again. Have to do this for maybe seven or eight more lights and get to where I'm going. Stay there for about 4 or 5 hours and go and s ... | |||||
| 2010 Hyundai Elantra Idles poorly when AC is on. | 10Relevance | 5 years ago | VitalXtreme | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| This issue started roughly 3 months ago, about a month after I had my freon refilled because of a leak. Now whenever i come to a stop at a red light or im sitting in my car as its parked I have to turn the AC off or rev the engine to prevent my car from having a rough idle. Sometimes it wont be bad but most of the time as soon as I come to a stop my engine starts getting louder and my RPM starts fluctuating between 700 - 2000. If i keep it on long enough without reving my engine eventually it gets super loud and then the entire engine cuts out. This has happ ... | |||||