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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: Brake warning light | 46Relevance | 5 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Your brake warning light serves 2 purposes It tells you when the parking brake is on and it warns you of a difference in pressure between the 2 hydraulic brake circuits. The light has power at all times "Key ON" Closing either of the switches independently, either the parking brake Switch (by pushing down the parking brake pedal), or Closing the Pressure Differential Switch (mounted on the combination valve) when the switch's pin is pushed up by the spool valve, will provide ground to the warning light, complete the circuit, and illuminate the bulb. Yo ... | |||||
| Answer to: Should I Change My Ford’s Brake Fluid? | 46Relevance | 2 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... at stopping the car. Braking makes the alcohol absorb heat. Water has a lower boiling point than that alcohol, and when you're hard on the brakes, such as stopping in an emergency, the water turns to water vapor because of the tremendous amount of heat that was absorbed, causing the brake pedal to become soft and mushy. Your car won't slow down properly as a result, increasing your risk for an accident. It doesn't happen overnight, as long as your brakes are properly sealed. Water will eventually start contaminating the brakes, eventually leading to a dark ... | |||||
| Answer to: Econoline rear drum brakes not adjusting | 30Relevance | 4 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... requires you to use the parking brake to keep the adjusters working. The manual also says to intermittently reverse and brake relatively aggressively to force them to adjust if you don't use the parking brake often. I religiously use my parking brake, and the brake hasn't loosened up from wear in the 30k miles I've driven since tearing the drums apart. | |||||
| Parking brake not working after dealership installed new drums and shoes | 29Relevance | 2 years ago | MarineCorpDoc | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty, I just had my 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 with 77,000 miles in at the dealership for new rear drums and shoes. After leaving The dealership I noticed after parking on an incline my parking brake is no longer working. I can push the parking break in all the way with my foot and it doesn’t engage. It worked fine before I had it in at the dealership. Could this be something that they did? Thank you in advance. | |||||
| Answer to: What is the proper or best way to use the parking brake? | 29Relevance | 4 years ago | Glen_stet | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| This has worked for me for many years and many different cars 1. Press down on the brake pedal 2. Engage the parking brake 3. Place the trans in Park if Auto/Neutral if Manual 4. Release brake pedal No stress on parking pawl, no chance of car movement | |||||
| 02 Es300 parking brake shoes | 41Relevance | 3 years ago | Retrocarb | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi, I got an 2002 Lexus ES300 and cannot for the life of me figure out the parking brake situation. I replaced all the hardware + the shoes and they refuse to sit right. They don't sit flush with the upper nub, and are off center so the rotor won't fit over them even on the tightest adjustment. I've tried multiple brands of shoes and taken them apart so many times. At this point, I'm thinking that it's the actual parking brake cable that is the problem. Maybe it's too tight and is pulling the shoe off center? The only reason I don't understand why this woul ... | |||||
| replaced transmission brake 4 times! what's going on? | 41Relevance | 2 years ago | nomadbrad | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2007 Ford E450 box truck 135,000 miles ( EX uhaul ) A mechanic misdiagnosed a clunking noise as a failed transmission mounted parking brake ( connects between the transmission output shaft & driveline ). I Installed a replacement unit from Amazon and tossed out the OEM unit. Turns out the original unit was not the source of the problem. But now a new problem has been created. The replacement unit from Amazon started leaking fluid from the parking brake housing (not where it attaches to the transmission )soon after I replaced it. I took it to a ... | |||||
| Answer to: Rear brakes locking up | 40Relevance | 3 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It could be a rusted parking brake cable that's stuck, or a corroded caliper piston that won't retract. Those are probably the most common. Of course the parking brake is connected to the main braking system. That parking brake operates on the rear brakes on most vehicles, front brakes on some. (You have to get into really old stuff, like 1950s Mopars, for a parking brake that is entirely separate. Those used a dedicated drum brake on the driveshaft.) One question per post please. However if it's remote or automatic locking you're talking about it could ... | |||||
| Answer to: Is it okay to not fix a broken parking brake? | 29Relevance | 4 years ago | Suntzuwarrior | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I took it to a local shop this morning. They looked at it and told me that parking brake cable in the caliper is seized. It needs rear brake job. Total cost $589. Also they found front coil spring broke. To fix the front coil spring/strut and rear brakes for parking brake function, total cost $1450. Is this reasonable? | |||||
| RE: Is it okay to not fix a broken parking brake? | 29Relevance | 4 years ago | Suntzuwarrior | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I took it to a local shop this morning. They looked at it and told me that parking brake cable in the caliper is seized. It needs rear brake job. Total cost $589. Also they found front coil spring broke. To fix the front coil spring/strut and rear brakes for parking brake function, total cost $1450. Is this reasonable? | |||||
| Electronic Parking Brake Sqeak on 17 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk | 29Relevance | 5 years ago | Bill_U | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2017 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk with 60,000 miles. At about 50k miles, the Electronic parking brake (EPB) started to squeak (actually, more of a chirp) when the brake is engaged or disengaged. It happens regardless of whether I use the parking brake "switch" to engage/disengage, put it in gear to engage, or disengage by driving forward/reverse. Is it a problem that I need to worry about? How can I fix it? | |||||
| Answer to: How do I set my park brake | 28Relevance | 5 years ago | Brandon.King101 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty for the last few years, I’ve had the habit of applying the parking brake when parking even on flat ground in cars with automatic transmissions because I heard somewhere that it “protects the transmission from the weight of the car”.... is this true ? Or is it unnecessary to use the parking brake when parking an automatic on flat ground ? | |||||
| RE: AWD tire spin on jack stands | 40Relevance | 5 years ago | Jackson | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey @Retired, Yes, I believe it was the rear right caliper sticking... I changed it out and now the back calipers are good. I have a new problem -- The front brakes are dragging now -- with the abs fuse out it's the right tire, and when I put the abs fuse back in, the left tire drags. Grr... I think it's either the caliper or the abs module, or the brake master cylinder... This car is kicking my butt, can the master cylinder cause both front brakes to drag, or just one to drag at times? I'm trying to figure it out.. but it's kicking my butt. History on the Car: 2004 Audi Allroad 2.7T Current Symptoms – Wheel drag slowing car, and eventually locking up tires so car doesn’t move. History: August 27 - Rear right brake seemed to be dragging on jack stands – when pushing the emergency lever up, it seemed to free brakes. – Emergency brake mechanism – seemed to help free up the wheel. August 28th – Accidentally toped up brake reservoir with power steering fluid drove for 10 minutes – got home, recognized the mistake, and siphoned out fluid in brake reservoir as best I could. August 30th – Drove the car to Calgary Sept 13th – Return drive from Calgary Sept 15th – Pressure bleed brakes with motive brake Bleeder at 16 psi. Sept 20th – Drove to Calgary October 4th – Upon starting the car, drove the car for 15 minutes, at which time Front left gradually got stiffer and stiffer until the engine didn’t have enough power to move the car – completely locked up—front left rotor was hottest, with mild smoke. All rotors were hot. Break down happened beside a mechanics garage – bled off the pressure and drove car into the garage. Scanned system – Code for brake pressure sensor. Mechanic disconnected brake pressure sensor by the reservoir. I left the mechanic's garage, and 20 minutes later – the wheels locked up again. Towed to Canadian Tire – Second scan – brake pressure sensor again. The mechanic went through the car, determined that drag on the right rear tire drag was telling the computer to compensate on the other tires. The mechanic said he pushed the emergency cable up on the caliper, it released.. and that’s what he thought was wrong with it... We went for a short test drive around the block.. and the rotors were all hot, he said that was normal – it didn’t seem normal to me. Left Canadian tire in Calgary – didn’t push the brakes hardly at all, outside of Lethbridge, checked rotors for temperature, front felt cool, rear right was warm – dragging October 5th – Changed rear right brake Caliper with a new caliper. Test drive around the block, rear rotors are now cool to touch, but, front rotors are dragging. Especially the front right much hotter. October 5th – Removed fuses 16, 41 & 42 – to disable ABS, ESP and EDL. The problem persists; the front right brake still gets hot, drag on the car – I didn’t drive to lock up. Released pressure on brakes using bleeder screw – car coasts amazing, and with no drag – unfortunately, eventually I will have to use the brakes. Used only emergency brake to transport car to Volkswagon Dealership. A careful moving car, as the brake pedal isn’t pumped up – minimal braking power at present. Inner Thoughts and Research: I have no idea! After checking the Audi forums, some think it’s the master cylinder return port not working properly, which causes the brake fluid to get hot, expand, and cause further braking issues until the car stops. I’m thinking it could also be the ABS module not opening and closing correctly, which is causing pressure to not return to the master cylinder… Another person said it could be a pressure sensor by the brake reservoir and yet another said the brake booster check valve isn’t functioning correctly. I really have no Idea; I am suspecting all of the above is the problem. | |||||
| Answer to: How to release electronic parking brake with no power? | 39Relevance | 7 months ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Scotty usually doesn't answer follow-up questions. Electronic parking brakes are easier to design than mechanical ones, it saves tiny bit of weight so that they can pack more "technology" into the car, and it's cheaper to make. "Let the body control module handle it!" Engineers figured that 99% of the time, the car has power. It's only a headache if your car has no power, which was your case. Personally, when I bought my 2013 Fusion that had an electric parking brake, I hated it. Luckily, my 2014 F-150 and my 2017 Mustang both have a manual parking brake. I ... | |||||
| Answer to: How to fix E brake | 28Relevance | 4 years ago | Doc | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Your car does not have an E brake. It has a parking brake as shown on page 2 of your owner's manual. Replace the parking brake light switch as shown here - | |||||