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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Possible Camry hybrid transmission problem | 12Relevance | 2 years ago | SeatonBM | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Is this a transmission/PSD issue? Can it be fix, or is a transmission/PSD replacement in my future? Or is it nothing? (Camry hybrid) Does anyone else's car do this? Anything I can do to fix this or figure out why it is doing this? The TLDR is: I have a 2014 Toyota camry XLE Hybrid. Recently I have noticed that when I take my foot off the gas (especially at highway speeds) the car sort of jerks when I let off the gas, and jerks again if I hit the gas a gain... It's hard to describe this accurately, jerk is sort of a harsh word - but it's like it doesn't shift smoothly, though being a CVT, I would almost liken the feeling like as if the CVT transmission "belt" were stretched out, or something, and had some play in it when I let my foot off the gas/re-engage the gas... It makes no noises, and other than this, it drives pretty normally. This primarily happens when I am trying to keep a speed or accelerating, then say a car ahead of me hits the brake or something, and I let off the gas, to coast, then hit the gas to maintain speed or accelerate if able. It doesn't always occur, but it primarily happens in such a situation. Especially if I am accelerating, then let off suddenly, or suddenly accelerate again... If I ease into letting off/on, it usually transitions somewhat smoothly. I thought maybe it's a transmission/engine mount, but... When I Rev the engine with the hood open with the car parked, the engine doesn't move, really at all. I won't lie, I do drive the car a little hard, hard acceleration, etc... But I also baby the car in other ways, for example I always come to a complete stop before shifting between reverse and drive, I usually even avoid go from neutral to any gear if the car is in motion (like leaving a car wash, I try to brake to a stop before shifting). I avoid bumps, or take them slow, etc. One key thing that happened recently, is that I replaced the CV axle assemblies and transmission fluid. I only mention this because I bought the fluid and axles from my local Toyota dealership, but they sold me a 26 spline driver side axle... Long story as to how I came to realizing this - let's just say I had to replace both the driver axle and front wheel bearing/hub twice because the original axle/hub was a 30 spline (and the passenger side axle/hub both original and replacement had 30 splines, why would the driver side be 26 splines if the passenger side is 30 splines, and the driver side hub was 30 splines originally). I replaced the driver side axle with the 26 spline axle Toyota sold me unaware it was not 30 spline axle, where the replacement hub was a 30 spline hub... I came to this realization after getting about half a mile from my house on a test drive, without my cell phone, everything was great until it wasn't, the driver side axle started spinning freely inside the hub, tearing splines up and, and causing the axle nut that I torqued to 213ft/lbs to essentially spin freely (took about half a mile to loosen up I guess), cross threading it bad enough I had to cut it off... I pushed the car back home (after walking home, getting the wife and kid, and walking back to the car - and that is why you never test drive without a cell phone). I spoke to Toyota, they swear up and down that they sold me the correct part for my VIN#. I am still of the belief that isn't correct... But I bought another 26 spline axle and a 26 spline hub, pressed the new hub/bearing and installed the new axle, and everything seems generally good as new. It's possible this jerky feeling I am feeling has always been there, and now I am hyper sensitive to it after doing all this car work, but... I am just now taking notice of it anyways. But it feels like it has to be kind of hard on the transmission/PSD when it happens, over time. Additional question: Does it seem like time to prepare for a replacement transmission/PSD? Does the 2014 Toyota camry XLE Hybrid share the same transmission/PSD as the Lexus ES300h? Both seem to use the same part # (30900-33030 or 33040 or 33053). Based on the part # alone, I'd say yes, but...Some places say no when I do a compatibility check with my car. And for that matter, does the camry and ES300h use the same hybrid battery G9510-33050, I have been starting the prep/search for a good price for a new battery (from Toyota, no 3rd party), as I am probably on borrowed time with the original. Further information/History: I've owned the car since 2016, and roughly since 30,000 miles - my father bought the car certified used from the dealership around 28,000 miles, and then passed away shortly afterwards, and I essentially inherited the car... It now has over 183,000 miles (mostly highway), and for the most part, it's still going strong! Up until a little bit ago, it was mostly all original parts - but recently I've replaced (mostly doing my own repairs/maintenances): -Both CV axle assemblies (Toyota)-Passenger side CV bearing support bracket (DuraLast/AutoZone)-Both front knuckles (TRQ/A1-Auto)-All 4 wheel bearings and hub (fronts are SKF, rears unknown - a shop did those)-All 4 struts/springs (KYB)-All 4 sway bar links (Toyota)-Both front lower control arms (Toyota)-Both front tie rods (not sure brand, a shop did those)-Both front brake calipers (DuraLast/AutoZone)-All 4 wheel's ceramic brake pads and coated rotors (Wagner)-Front driver speed sensor (DuraLast/AutoZone)-12 Volt battery (Toyota)-Air conditioner blower fan (Um... RockAuto, forget brand)-Engine radiator/AC condenser cooling fans (TYC)-All 4 spark plugs (Denso)-All 4 TPMS sensors (Denso) And other miscellaneous stuff like fog and headlight light bulbs, tires, etc. I've also had the wheel balance and alignment checked recently. I have also religiously performed oil changes with new crush washers and Toyota oil filters, engine air filter, cabin air filters, all maintenances at scheduled intervals (oil changes were done every 10,000 miles when the car was mostly a highway car - now I do oil every 5,000 miles as I don't drive nearly as much on the highway as I use to). the transmission fluid has also been replaced first around 100,000 miles (mostly highway miles), and it was replaced again about 75,000 miles later (technically it was replaced a 3rd time about 6,000 miles afterwards, sort of by accident - I replaced the CV axles, lost some fluid, went to top the fluid off and mindlessly opened the drain plug - so I filled it up with all new fluid), always using Toyota ATF-WS transmission fluid, and replaced crush washers. the coolant (both inverter and engine) and brake fluid also have been routinely changed, and the hybrid filter routinely cleaned. Spark plugs were replaced at 125,000 miles. This car is religiously maintained! And I use proper torque specs/torque wrench when tightening bolts/screws! And the car is essentially all stock, no mods. Unrelated but interesting side note: It was rather surprising to me when my engine radiator/AC condenser cooling fans failed. I learned of this issue when my AC quit blowing cold unless I was moving, but if I idled at a traffic light or parked, the AC would blow warm. Which naturally made me think the condenser was unable to radiate the heat from the compressor unless air was passing by it while moving. When parked, a fan moves air past the condenser, but because the fan failed, this wasn't occurring. To my surprise when I looked at the fan, neither the condenser nor engine radiator fan were working. My best theory is, unless they some how failed at the same time (unlikely) the engine radiator fan failed first, but went unnoticed because the engine never overheated, though further interesting is the fact that even when both fans failed, the engine still never overheated, probably because as I am moving, air passes through it - and when I am still, the engine kicks off and the car runs on the hybrid battery. The engine never overheated, and replacing both fans (an assembly) fixed my AC issue, it now blows cold all the time when on. Given I've literally replaced the AC blower fan, and the engine radiator and AC condenser fans by this point... Maybe I might want to consider getting a spare hybrid battery cooling fan on hand. Seems like fans have not been this car's point of focus in quality. | |||||
| Should I buy at 2001 Camry with 104K miles and will it last for 5 years? | 12Relevance | 2 years ago | christopherK333 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, I am interested in buying a 2001 camry 4 cylinder CE with 104K miles. The camry was in Florida until 85K (about 2 years ago) then it was in Connecticut for the next 19K miles. Since the camry is about 24 years old, is there anything I should replace because of the old age, for example, the automatic transmission or the steering rack or power steering pump or even parts of the engine. My reasoning is old cars have seals that wear with age and thus may require changing one or more car parts. Also will the camry last at least 5 year without changing any parts for the sake of seals that may wear with age. Thank you. | |||||
| Which Camry should I buy? | 12Relevance | 2 years ago | Mahdi | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello ScottyI want a camry that will last me 15 years with minimal problemsShall I get a brand new 2024 Toyota camry XSE Petrol or XSE Hybrid? I like the smooth feeling of a CVT and the efficiency of a hybrid camry.But also I don’t want to spend all the money that I have saved from a hybrid on its repairs and maintenance. What do you think and thank you a lot! And will the normal automatic engine of a petrol camry get laggy overtime ? or shall I skip all the hustle and wait for the 2025 model? Thanks! | |||||
| Answer to: The new 11th Gen 2022 Honda Civic 1.5 Turbo CVT with Honda Sensing, Philippines | 14Relevance | 5 years ago | InThrustWeTrust | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Scotty has recently said that Honda has seemed to fix the oil dilution in the 1.5T EarthDreams engine. If you’re after longevity however, I’d stick to the R18 civic as that is a proven engine with the complexity of a turbo. With that said, Honda does make pretty reliable turbocharged engines but if you don’t like the way the 2022 civic drives, get the 2020 civic. All said & done, if it was my money, I’d wait atleast a couple of years before buying an all new generation/model of any new vehicle. Even if it was a Toyota/Honda. I’d pick the 1.8L Ci ... | |||||
| Toyota Solara OR Honda Civic??? | 14Relevance | 5 years ago | Joshua V | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello, I have a 2002 Toyota Solara (V6, 3.0L) and a 1998 Honda civic (4 Cylinder, 1.4L standard trans.). The Solara has about 178k miles and the civic has 149k miles. I bought the Toyota Solara recently with the plan to fix the passenger door, clean up the faded paint and sell it. I have driven it a few times since then and it feels very smooth and it has some pick-up compared to the civic. I mostly care about reliability, and I know Toyota is known for that. QUESTION: Which is more reliable (last longer)? The Toyota Solara or the Honda civic? I want to be ... | |||||
| Answer to: 2016 Honda Civic lx opinions | 14Relevance | 5 years ago | Whatchamacallit | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| See below: The LX has the 2.0L naturally aspirated engine with port injection, which is as good as you can do for longevity in modern Honda’s (don’t have to worry about oil dilution found in the smaller displacement turbo GDI engines). You didn’t state if CVT or manual transmission, but if CVT I would change transmission fluid (and filter if applicable) every 30,000 miles to get the most life out of it. Also, some had AC issues - something to plan for (just in case). | |||||
| 1997 honda civic dx code p0700 check engine | 14Relevance | 5 years ago | Profet777 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Dear Scott, I just bought a 1997 Honda civic DX coupe from my father. It is automatic transmission. It has 183xxx miles. It is showing code p0700 which is a transmission related issue. My father is a mechanic not the best but he does everything. He only has a 20 year old craftsman scanner tool, so he cant see if its the tranny the ecu or the tranny sensors. He went to pick your part today and found a 2000 civic ex with a good clean tranny with clean oil. He bought all the automatic transmission sensors but are the vtech ex cars tranny sensors compatible w ... | |||||
| Whhat hatchback should I buy? Vauxhall Astra or Honda Civic? | 14Relevance | 5 years ago | mannyman | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Budget: £9000. Usage: 50% motorways 50% city driving. I have been doing alot of research and I am down to these two cars: - Vauxhall Astra 1.4 Turbo Petrol 2018 - Honda civic 1.8 Petrol VTEC SE Plus/Sport 2015 I have been comparing prices and the civics are far more expensive (insurance is cheaper though) than the astras here in the UK. An older civic costs the same as a newish astra. I have watched reviews and people have been giving alot of praise on the newer astras, though not much has been said about its reliability. And ofcourse Honda civics ... | |||||
| What Do You Think Of The New 2025 Camry? | 12Relevance | 3 years ago | Elon Dusk | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Toyota announced their new 9th generation camry yesterday. The major change is under the hood. You can no longer buy a gas only camry. All new camry lineups are hybrid. However, they still employ the same 2.5L I4 engine and the 5th gen hybrid system bolted onto it. Another major change is the transmission. No more regular 8 speed. Every 9th gen camry comes with eCVT. | |||||
| Camry Speedometer reading slightly off | 12Relevance | 3 years ago | Hixster | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| My 2011, 2.5L, automatic camry's speedometer reading is off by almost 3 mph. I noticed this after the city I live in installed a couple of those solar powered radar guns/signs. My other vehicle reads exactly whatever the the radar gun/sign reports. Curiosity got the best of me, so I connected my Bluedriver to my camry & checked the speed reported by the scan tool against the speed reported by my camry's speedometer. The Bluedriver reports the camry's speed as being off by the same amount as the radar guns/signs, 3mph. Car drives fine, no codes, so what gives? | |||||
| Answer to: What is the difference between a Camry and Avalon | 12Relevance | 3 years ago | Whatchamacallit | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| In general, the Avalon is more akin to a Lexus ES than the camry, so more comfortable, spacious, and fewer of them on the road (which to me is an added plus), but yet shares similar parts as a camry (so won’t break the bank when it’s time for repairs). Personally, I would go for an Avalon than a camry just to be a little different, but for the record the Avalon is just as reliable as the camry. | |||||
| Answer to: 2021 Avalon 4 cylinder vs Camry XSE 2021 4 cylinder | 12Relevance | 4 years ago | Whatchamacallit | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The Avalon is more akin to a Lexus ES than the camry, so more comfortable, spacious, and fewer of them on the road (which to me is an added plus), but yet shares similar parts as a camry (so won’t break the bank when it’s time for repairs). Personally, I would go for an Avalon than a camry just to be a little different, but for the record the Avalon is just as reliable as the camry. | |||||
| Answer to: old Civic or newer Yaris | 14Relevance | 5 years ago | Kerem | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| In thrust We trust is refering to the Pre-Purchase mechanical Inspection. You want to get it done for both. Maybe a major problem is prevalent but you don't notice it. Maybe the Yaris has a major problems and the civic was cared for with no problems, in that case get the civic. Maybe the civic has too many small problems but the Yaris is just fine, then get the Yaris.If you can get your hands on service records, then that would make you get a more informed decision. Linked next to my profile on my first answer there is a "Used Car Buying Guide" that many me ... | |||||
| Answer to: Keep a functioning 2008 BMW 335i or finance a used 2018 Honda Civic Manual | 14Relevance | 5 years ago | LiveLaughLove | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The ideal outcome is to keep the Beemer as a weekend car and the civic as the weekday car, but since it is one, its a tough question because it is a lifestyle change. Love reading about working/learning on the BMW, that is priceless and the experience/knowledge/satisfaction will be with you for ever. Replacing the BMW with a civic means no more working and learning (Hondas are reliable). There is less stress knowing the car will always start, but then stress about having a monthly payment. If going down the civic path, consider a new one, the financing terms ... | |||||
| Answer to: Honda Civic 2004 opinions | 14Relevance | 5 years ago | Kerem | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... might even indicate that there is a problem already. That generation of Honda civic did have pretty weak automatic transmissions but they were mostly for the start of it. For instance here is a graph of the transmission problem complaints by model year But those cars are usually overpriced as well I wouldn't pay more than $1500-$2000. I'd be wary of it because of the questionable transmission maintenance that would cause premature ware to the already weak transmission. To see common problems, I like to use this site: | |||||