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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| How often should I change Synthetic Oil? | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | daugtr | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi, had an oil change on a 2015 Jeep Patriot done using synthetic oil approximately 4500 miles ago (5 months) The "change oil" light just came on. I checked the oil and the level and color looks good I understand that synthetic oil can go 7000 miles before a change. Does the "change oil" light come on after X number of miles OR does it actually monitor the properties of the oil ? | |||||
| Honda Civic 1.5 oil dilution scandal | 27Relevance | 4 years ago | arsen_2872 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... switched to using OW-16 oil (GF-6B). Also, based on other people's solutions who have also had this issue, I've switched to using 91 octane instead of 87. The car has no problems at all right now and I've only had to do maintenance oil changes (which I do myself). Around 27k miles I noticed the oil level rising above the maximum line and the dipstick oil strongly smelling like gasoline. I decided to change the oil at 28k miles and used OW-16 full synthetic, which after watching one of Scotty's newer videos, I thought would fix the dilution problems. I alw ... | |||||
| Questions and Feedback | 27Relevance | 5 years ago | ZKoss | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... your previous website that you replied to me on my previous car my 2003 mazda tribute V6. I ended up trading it in back in May and buying a 2019 Toyota corolla LE for my next car. On my tribute I ended up having 208,000 miles on it when I traded it in. I basically decided not to put that much more money into it, since there were other little things going on (such as automatic transmission slipping at times the last 15 or 20,000 miles, oil leaking onto the exhaust manifold, and other very minor things I could live with) and I had the money saved up for so ... | |||||
| Answer to: Synthetic vs conventional on first oil change? | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | Mod_Man | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Yes it is fine. Full synthetic is a better quality oil than synthetic blend anyway so you are buying better oil than required. If you go to the dealer for service, they will try to sell you full synthetic as well. | |||||
| Answer to: Can you switch between conventional and synthetic oil? | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | Mod_Man | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You do not want to go back and forth between oil types. If the vehicle has had synthetic its whole life, you want to continue to use synthetic. Switching from conventional to synthetic also causes issues, mostly new leaks you may not have had with conventional oil. | |||||
| Answer to: Synthetic oil | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | Mod_Man | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I use Mobil 1, but full synthetic of any brand is essentially just as good. Now, is he talking about recycled "bulk" oil that comes in drums or is it still bottled? Never, EVER use bulk oil from a drum. That oil can easily be contaminated and cause problems. synthetic oil, from sealed bottles, is fine. $20 difference makes me wonder though as that's usually around the price difference between recycled oil and new, bottled oil. I would definitely ask. | |||||
| Can I use synthetic oil | 27Relevance | 4 years ago | Reproachful Rick | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| They now have synthetic 5W-30 oil and are telling me to use it in my 2014 Toyota Yaris, so naturally a detect a trap. Is this oil actually as safe as the old 5W-30 oil? I can't get a straight answer from the complacent idiots at my local Toyota dealership service department that is controlled by all-female nitwits answering the phones and service guys who never answer the phone and it just goes to their voicemail. The girls answering the phones were telling me all sorts of synthetic oil types that I already know are wrong. So I bought four quarts of syn ... | |||||
| Answer to: Synthetic or Mineral oil ? | 27Relevance | 5 years ago | James St. Clair | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Now, me personally, I have a 2007 Ford Ranger with a gas engine. 115,000 miles. High mileage for a consumer vehicle with a gas engine. Most of its life used synthetic blend oil. At about 90,000 miles, I switched to full synthetic. Then at about 110,000, I switched to Amsoil (only because I now put 15,000 plus miles on it a year and I want to see how far I can go between oil changes.) So far NO LEAKS, NO BURNING oil. Before I changed to full synthetic around 90,000 miles, I did a couple short oil change intervals (I think I did a 300 mile and a 1,000 mile), i ... | |||||
| Answer to: Oil light is on | 26Relevance | 3 years ago | DontKnowler | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| As to the oil light not staying always on: it is normal behavior, and it shall not be interpreted in terms of the oil pressure situation not being dangerous enough. Vehicles often have two oil sensors with different trigger settings, each able to trigger the oil light independently of each other: one only active under load (say, at about 2000 rpm, making sure that under load the oil pressure does not go below, say, 1.8 bar) - and totally inactive under all other rpms and conditions; and the other one being active when the engine is idling (or working with minimum load and rpm) and checking that under these conditions the oil pressure never gets below, say, 0.3 bar. As one of the consequences of the way these sensors work, you may well have huge oil pressure problems, but at a certain time you may be getting no oil light, cause at that specific moment the conditions for the ECU to start checking the abovementioned sensors are not met. Practical conclusion (just like Chuck Tobias wrote): the very first occurrence of the oil light should give you enough reason to really start worrying, stop driving, and start investigating the root cause. On some vehicles, the ECU may start blinking with the oil light, when the oil pressure is not just bad (although even "just bad" is imo dangerous enough), but when it goes absolutely and unacceptably bad. Frankly, the most common reason for the oil light are not oil pressure problems, but rather oil pressure sensor problems (it is not uncommon for such sensors to go bad, and I even had both of my sensors go bad simultaneously). But since you mentioned ticking when starting cold, this is not your case - you are most probably having not a sensor problem, but real oil pressure issues. As to the possible causes thereof, Chuck Tobias mentioned most of them. It could also be blocked oil pressure regulator valve and/or blocked oil spraying nozzles inside the engine (especially, but not necessarily, if any oil additives (like leak-stops etc) have been used recently). Checking the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge is relatively easy: I could do it myself. Same about dropping the oil pan and cleaning the oil pickup screen if you see that it is blocked. Same about the oil pressure reg valve. But for dealing with the oil pump I would need a mechanic, since diagnosing its wear status requires some fine measurements. And if the root cause proves to be general engine wear, I would just recommend getting another engine or saying goodbye to the car. /IMHO disclaimer goes here/ | |||||
| Cold oil takes longer to reach the valves - but why? | 26Relevance | 4 years ago | DontKnowler | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I am a huge fan of Scotty and his videos. He is an endless source of useful infos.But there are some minor things that I not quite understand, and I would appreciate some additional explanations, if possible. For example, in various Scotty´s videos I remember him saying multiple times, with different words, that most wear happening to the engine happens when the engine is being started cold, one (or maybe even the) reason for that intensive wear being that cold oil takes longer to get pumped into the upper part of the engine, to the valves (hope I picked the main idea correctly). At first glance, this sounds fairly logical: cold oil is more dense, hence it takes longer to get it pumped up high. I know that some believe that I tend to overthink things - but still: when I somehow thought longer about it, I figured out that I do not quite understand the physics behind this process. So maybe someone could be so kind to lighten the darkness of my ignorance. Just imagine the oil pump of the engine. It has steel gears submerged in oil and getting rotation from the engine shaft. The volume of oil these gears pump per one rotation of the pump is firmly pre-defined by the pump hardware. The pump rpms are engine rpm-dependent, hence are controlled by the ECU. At startup these gears "grasp" the predefined volume of oil and forcifully - having the whole huge power of the whole engine available to them - squeeze this volume into the oil channel leading (also) to the motor valves. The power of the engine is so huge in comparison to these small steel gears, that fluctuations in oil viscosity appear to not really make much difference to these gears - they will still push the designed oil volume into the oil channel at the designed speed, no matter what - no matter how high or low the oil viscosity. Feeling is, that even if one would pour fluid honey in, these gears would still pump it through and up high with no viscosity-related problems at all. Since, once the oil is already inside this oil channel, it has no other choice than to move up high exactly at the required speed, pushed up by new portions of oil delivered by the pump - hence, oil viscosity will / can not really be a significant limiting factor for the oil upward pumping speed. Not even the RPM will drop due to higher oil viscosity - the ECU will compensate for that immediately (actually, at lower temperatures the ECU is programmed to inject more fuel and to keep higher idle RPMs for a couple of minutes after a cold start). So when thinking along these lines, cold oil should actually be reaching the valves not sooner and not later, than hot oil - for the oil pump, oil viscosity makes too little difference. So could the extra engine wear at cold startup be attributable not to the speed at which oil is being pumped upwards, but, maybe, to worse lubricating properties cold oil has, or to larger play cold unoiled engine parts have, or to smth else? Thanks a lot for explanations, and for the patience in reading the many letters I typed 🙂 | |||||
| Answer to: Should I buy a 2010 Ford Mustang GT? | 27Relevance | 1 year ago | MAC4322 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| @scottykilmer Hi Scotty, thank you for the advice. I will certainly get it looked at by a mechanic. Here is some further information about the vehicle. (California) 06/28/2010: Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked oil and filter changed Battery/charging system checked Tire condition and pressure checked 01/03/2011: Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked Tire condition and pressure checked oil and filter changed Battery/charging system checked 07/20/2011: 9,701 miles Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked Radiator fan shroud replaced Vehicle washed/detailed oil and filter changed Tire condition and pressure checked Maintenance reminder reset Battery/charging system checked 07/09/2012: 14,887 miles Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked oil and filter changed Tire condition and pressure checked Battery/charging system checked Vehicle washed/detailed Air filter replaced Cabin air filter replaced/cleaned 03/06/2013: 18,832 miles Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked oil and filter changed Tire condition and pressure checked Battery/charging system checked 11/12/2013: 22,923 miles Maintenance inspection completed Tire condition and pressure checked oil and filter changed 03/03/2014: 24,525 miles Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked Tire condition and pressure checked Battery/charging system checked Fluids checked oil and filter changed Tires rotated 09/16/2014: 27,325 miles Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked Tire condition and pressure checked Battery/charging system checked oil and filter changed Air filter checked Air filter replaced 03/24/2015: 30,531 miles Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked Tire condition and pressure checked Transmission fluid changed Battery/charging system checked Battery serviced Fluids checked Two tires mounted Two tires balanced Tire(s) balanced Tire(s) mounted Air filter replaced Fuel filter replaced oil and filter changed Transmission fluid flushed 09/21/2015: 32,317 miles Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked Tire condition and pressure checked Battery/charging system checked Brake fluid flushed/changed Drivability/performance checked Air filter checked 10/15/2015: 32, 390 miles Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked Tire condition and pressure checked Air filter checked Transmission checked 03/22/2016: 35,198 Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked Tire condition and pressure checked Air filter checked oil and filter changed 09/23/2016: 39,139 Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked Tire condition and pressure checked Battery/charging system checked oil and filter changed Electrical system checked Air filter checked 11/04/2016: 42,880 (passed emissions inspection) 03/28/2017: 42,880 Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked Tire condition and pressure checked Air filter replaced Battery/charging system checked oil and filter changed Rear differential fluid flushed/changed Rear differential serviced Antifreeze/coolant flushed/change 09/14/2017: 45,908 Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked oil and filter changed Battery/charging system checked Electrical system checked Engine oil/fluid leak checked Valve cover gasket(s) replaced Tire condition and pressure checked 04/02/2018: 49,643 Maintenance inspection completed Tire condition and pressure checked Battery/charging system checked oil and filter changed Wiper(s) replaced Air filter replaced 10/01/2018: 54,958 Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked Tire condition and pressure checked Battery/charging system checked oil and filter changed Right airbag assembly replaced 11/09/2018 (passed emissions inspection) 04/10/2019: 58,586 Drivability/performance checked A/C and heating system checked Fuel filter replaced oil and filter changed Tire condition and pressure checked 01/21/2020: 63,033 Brakes checked Tire condition and pressure checked Battery/charging system checked Drivability/performance checked Differential fluid flushed/changed Rear differential serviced oil and filter changed Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed 10/27/2020: 64,834 (passed emissions inpection) 12/21/2020: 65,465 Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked Transmission fluid changed Battery/charging system checked Brake fluid flushed/changed Tire condition and pressure checked oil and filter changed 11/29/2021: 68,552 Brakes checked Tire condition and pressure checked Battery/charging system checked oil and filter changed 07/11/2022: 71,388 oil and filter changed 11/04/2022 72,175 (passed emissions) 03/08/2023: 75,207 Maintenance inspection completed Brakes checked Tire(s) balanced Battery/charging system checked Tire condition and pressure checked Four wheel alignment performed oil and filter changed Four tires replaced Tire(s) replaced Four tires balanced 01/12/2024: 80,011 Maintenance inspection completed Battery/charging system checked Brake fluid flushed/changed Tire condition and pressure checked oil and filter changed 10/16/2024: 82,154 Tire condition and pressure checked oil and filter changed Drive belts checked 10/18/2024: 82,972 (passed emissions inspection) 10/26/2024: 82,992 Tire condition and pressure checked Four wheel alignment performed Drivability/performance checked Tire(s) balanced Four tires balanced Four tires mounted Tire(s) mounted Four tires replaced Tire(s) replaced 12/06/2024: 83, 501 Drivability/performance checked Tire condition and pressure checked Drive belts checked 12/18/2024: (passed emissions inspection) 12/19/2024: 83,549 oil and filter changed tire condition and pressure checked emissions inspection performed. | |||||
| Conventional vs synthetic blend vs full synthetic | 24Relevance | 3 years ago | dakotadog | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Scotty, I have a 2005 Camry and a 2006 Lexus ES330. I'm finding it more and more difficult to find conventional oil, which I have used in both cars their entire life. The Camry is at 150,000 miles, and the Lexus 90,000. Should I switch to the synthetic blend, or just go full synthetic? | |||||
| Synthetic blend or go Full synthetic | 24Relevance | 3 years ago | Chrisgarza17 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2017 Ford Focus, I'm currently at a 100166 miles and and I'm wondering if I should just go full synthetic or stay synthetic blend . I don't have any issues as far as I'm concerned. I changed the oil Religiously since I've gotten it when it was at 56000. | |||||
| Answer to: The ultimate Toyota conventional or synthetic shoot out | 24Relevance | 1 year ago | JVin | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Just use fully synthetic oil and change it every 5K miles. Better oil at the same price or even cheaper if you do the math. Best prices for synthetic oil is in Walmart and Amazon. Also, don't use the cheapest filters either. $3/quart conventional for 3,000 miles = $0.005 per mile. $5/quart synthetic for 5,000 miles = $0.005 per mile. Good luck! | |||||
| Dealer used the wrong oil | 26Relevance | 3 years ago | Philip Champagne | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... for full synthetic oil. Last friday i went for my 24 000km oil change and realize after reading the invoice for the 1st time once i got home, that the dealer was putting 0W20 weight oil in my engine since the 1st 2500 km oil change ! I was totally out of my mind whent i realize that. I called the dealer to ask them why they changed the oil weight recommended by the manufacturer and they told me that every time a customer ask for full synthetic oil they always use 0W20 since it is the only synthetic oil they keep in stock. They also told me that 0W20 was al ... | |||||