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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: How Rich Does a Carburetor Have to Run to Ruin an Engine? | 16Relevance | 3 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Little gas residue always makes it past the piston rings. That is called blow-by. When it becomes an issue is when there's a lot of blow-by, and you don't let it basically burn off. Worn piston rings can cause this if your engine is already hot. It's inevitable that some residue will leak past the piston rings, it doesn't create a perfect seal. The engine can deal with ordinary blow-by, if you have a PCV valve, it recirculates back into the engine to be burned again. It's when it becomes excessive that you have a problem. For instance, smelling raw gas coming out of your tailpipe is way too much gas. | |||||
| Honda accord 2008 | 16Relevance | 3 years ago | 619mom | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello I have a 2008 honda accord V6 2 dr automatic. 197k mileage, always had work done by the dealer.On10/2022 I had my car towed to the dealer for an engine light. The dealer got the following codes P3411,P3497,P0301.. they replaced all 6 spark, 2 gasket heads Replaced powersteering ra k Replaced oil pan gasket Now 2 weeks ago engine light turns on again, code P0301. Mechanic writes misfire cylinger 1 removed, spark plug found contaminated with oil. Recommend piston ring repair I was researching the 3 possible causes for spark plugs that have oil. 1. piston rings 2. Value steam seals 3. PVC system So to rule out if it is the piston ring issue. I need a leak down test to perform a relative compression check. to rule out if its a piston ring issue. In 10/2022 I had major service. All 6 spark plugs were replaced. I don't think they replaced the value seals, which they could have done when they changed all 6 spark plugs. Unsure what to do. My car looks great, excellent condition. I don't want to Sal age it. Is my motor gone. They changed out 1 spark plug and it runs. But I'm afraid it won't last. Help | |||||
| A/C compressor oil leaked out of A/C compressor what do I do ? | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | josemart015 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello I'm hoping someone can help me. I just got an A/C compressor for my 2012 Mazda 3 and my cat accidentally bumped next to it and it tipped over and I noticed that some liquid came out. I was inspecting the compressor and I forgot to put back the rubber seal on the compressor and liquid came out. I'm assuming it's refrigerant oil for the compressor. Now my assumption is to drain it and refill it with new oil just because idk how much leaked out. What brand of oil do you recommend for the compressor? Do you recommend I take different steps? The SKU is bbm4 ... | |||||
| Answer to: Soaking wet carpet | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | Biomecanoid | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| If its clear clean water its the AC, if its dirty water its coming from the outside, if its a colored liquid the its a liquid used on the car. Things to check: Sunroof if you have one door seals door drain AC drain pipe | |||||
| Answer to: Alternative to OTC 7000A Pro Inject-R Kleen? | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | scottykilmer | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| No it's a good tool you can just get liquid high strength cleaner like BG is a good one there are many available liquid cleaners you can add to that machine just check by googling it and see what the mechanics themselves use in your area what's available. | |||||
| 2000 Mercedes Benz CL500 noise after starting car | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | Halogenmango | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty! I just bought 2000 Mercedes Benz cl500 with 78,000 miles on it car has no problems and runs grate but it just has little noise which occurs after I start the car, but when I’m driving it there is no noise. I think that noise is coming from steering pump but car has good steering and no liquid leak also liquid level is perfect so what could be a problem can you help me? Thank you so much !I’m a big fan of your channel | |||||
| Answer to: How common are head bolt issues on 2002 camrys? | 16Relevance | 3 years ago | Jordandudgeon99 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey man happy new year! My search went very well. 1) I am the second owner. The first owner was an old man who took amazing care of this car, and had all the paperwork and records. Never missed an oil change every 3000 miles, and did the coolant and transmission on time. (The car currently only has 85,000 miles, (confirmed), and is in AMAZING shape!) 2) I actually Emailed Scotty Kilmer (yes it was his real Email that he states in all of his videos). I asked him about how common this head bolt issue is. He replied! He said he's never seen it once in his career, and doesn't believe it's common atall. 3) I made a reddit thread in a toyota mechanic group, and asked about it on a toyota mechanic Facebook page also (asking about how common the head bolt issue is). Every single toyota tech and mechanic who commented all said it was not very common at all. They say they've each seen one or two have the issue out of hundreds or thousands of the 2002-2004 2.4 camrys that they've seen. Some said they've never seen one with the issue! They all assured me that the issue is "common" in the sense that it's known, but that in reality, almost all 2002 2.4 Camrys they've seen in the shop have gone the distance (often over 300,000 miles!) AS long as they're taken care of. And like I said, I'm the second owner, with all the paperwork, so I know mine has been taken care of, and it will stay that way! They also said the ones that DID get the head bolt issue had one common feature - overheating or poor maintenance! (I'm sure that there are SOME that got it anyway, but that was the pattern they noticed).... was it a design flaw? Yes. Is trouble from it it totally avoidable? Absolutely! They encouraged me that the issue is nothing I should loose sleep over, and I have a very solid engine! Most never see the issue, out of all of the ones that were sold! "Carcomplaints" is helpful, but it's not conclusive - remember, people ONLY complain there. Nobody posts there when their car lasts forever! And most of these cars do just that! OF COURSE car complaints will have complaints! That's what it's for! But after talking to guys who have all worked on countless of this engine, the verdict is that it's a bulletproof engine, and the issue is RARE! (Toyota DID do a bulletin about it, but I'm told that their standards for when to issue one are very low, because they have integrity)!!! 4) The oil burning problem on the 2AZ engines did not start until 2007. This has been confirmed by multiple sources, including Scotty Kilmer on YouTube, many other Mechanics (like carcarenut), and all of the Toyota Techs who ive spoken to. Any before 2007 that burn oil, are likely burning oil because they didnt get their oil changed on time. They used better piston rings before 2007, especially in Japan! They did not switch their piston rings to the bad ones until 2006-2007ish. I own a 2002 made in Japan, that burns absolutely no oil atall! The inside of the engine is clean as a whistle. I'm on 3000 miles that ive driven since the last change, and my oil Is still gold and still on max. So I have no reason to be worried about oil burning! I'll just keep changing it at 3000 miles with synthetic oil! (Toyota actually did a recall list on the piston ring issue - my car isn't on it. None before 2006 are! Because they didnt have the bad rings!) 5) my transmission is smooth as butter. Scotty Kilmer has a video on YouTube with this exact car, same engine, calling it "one of the best, most reliable 4 door sedans ever produced". In that video, he gives some specific praise to the transmission, saying he's seen them with 500,000 Miles, still on the original transmission. I've done lots of research on this transmission, and have spoken to lots of toyota Mechanics about it now. If the fluid is done on time, and you dont bag your car, these transmissions last! Especially in the 4 cylinder! They're very reliable. SO.... THE "STATS" ARE GOING GREAT!!! (I was never looking for stats, but like I said - just a bit of info from the RIGHT guys.. and I got it!) I have been very encouraged by my findings. I have learned that the 2AZFE is a very misunderstood engine, with the issues spread out over the years getting all clumped together as if all these engines had all the issues. In reality, my car is not prone to oil burning, as it has good rings in the year it was made, and the head bolt issue is extremely rare, and usually only happens with an over heat. This car is in top shape, and has not been overheated. I never plan to overheat it. I'm going to he preventative, so I have a thermostat, Rafiator, and water pump on the mail (all OEM).... I am so very glad I did my research, and I am very glad with my choice of car. Can't wait to drive ot for many more miles to come!!! Woo-hoo!!!!! | |||||
| 2009 Honda Accord LX 2.4L 4Cyl | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | benhasquestions | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2009 honda accord LX with 160K miles. I have been noticing liquid buildup from around the front engine mount. I am not sure what the liquid is (oil or coolant), doesn't look to be oil. Both my oil and coolant level are full and I am not overheating. | |||||
| Engine failure (KIA 2.0) | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | raodonald | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Scotty, for the sake of the owners of cars with engines that fail from mfg shavings that eventually block the oil passages; Do you think that the head and block areas could be saved by some kind of power-flushing done when the car comes in for an oil change? Inject some kind of liquid solution that would coat the aluminum shavings and keep them from snagging or otherwise attaching to metals. The liquid could be filtered and re-used endlessly. I picture the "scrubbing bubbles" commercial as an example. Obviously, this might work on ANY aluminum block engine. | |||||
| Answer to: Any idea if a Ford Police Interceptor Utility has built in battery jump starter? | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The battery doesn't exactly charge itself , but you're right that chemical reactions take time to spread. You can think of the charge in a battery like a big tub of honey. If you suddenly drained off a portion of it, it will take time for the honey to flow in and fill the 'hole' you made. The inside of the battery has liquid, and that liquid also needs time to mix. This sluggishness is worse when outside temperatures are cold. | |||||
| RE: Radiator Replacement Required for Preventative Maintenance? | 16Relevance | 6 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| @tchid I have never heard of a separate liquid-to-liquid cooler installed on a vehicle. And I don't see the difference. Either way you have transmission fluid beside coolant. Not only is there still potential for mixing, but the sheer complexity of such a thing would be just more connections and joints for leaks to happen. The in-radiator cooler is the most common and simplest solution, and it works perfectly well in an overwhelming majority of cases. | |||||
| RE: Radiator Replacement Required for Preventative Maintenance? | 16Relevance | 6 years ago | Razmig Bartassian | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| @mountainmanjoe You can have liquid-to-fluid cooling without integration inside the radiator. I'm saying the idea of having the cooler inside the radiator "surrounded" by coolant is a bad idea. We have liquid-to-fluid coolers that are separate from the radiator itself where dedicated coolant lines run from the radiator to the cooling device. I just think it's better to have it separate...sure there are more coolant lines and what not, but at least if the cooler starts leaking for some reason it won't mix with anything. It's good to know that you haven't had ... | |||||
| Answer to: 2013 VW Jetta Hybrid | 16Relevance | 4 years ago | Dan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The millage is nothing, the issue is with the engine being designed by absolute fools. between oil consumption, and piston destruction - the 1.4 TSI continues to be a mess! Very unlikely to help, Experience with VW TSI shows that nothing will unstick those piston rings - It's not unusual to see a small TSI engine burn 1L/1000km (roughly 1.7 quarts per 1k miles - that's the spec the manual for some regions sets as to what's "normal" oil consumption). After all, it's special ultra low friction piston rings for that extra 0.05MPG - a lot of the time even replacing the pistons and rings won't help due to how the cylinders deform beyond what's possible to re-do at a machine shop. | |||||
| Answer to: 2016 Ford Fusion S Hybrid | 16Relevance | 4 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| If there are no problems, then don't use additives. There are really no mechanics in a bottle. My 1999 Ranger has 285,000 miles, it weeps oil from the rear main. Not enough to drip to the ground. The only thing I put in the engine is Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. Additives aren't necessary if you pick a quality motor oil. If a seal is broken, it's going to leak. Additives do nothing. AT-205 can swell intact, hardened seals, but that's it. This is a bad idea on a high mileage car. Engine oil and filters are cheap, engine work (especially on hybrids) is extremely expensive. You should be changing the engine oil more frequently as the mileage increases. I religiously change my truck's oil every 5k miles, and I drive mainly highway and country (roughly 300 miles a week). I doubt it "looks brand new", oil in every engine turns black from the contaminants the detergents pick up. Even more so in high mileage engines. Also a terrible, terrible idea. The engine was designed for 0W-20, which is very thin and watery oil. 5W-30 is a relatively heavy oil that most lawn equipment and older cars from the 80s and 90s use. Putting that in your engine will wear it out and cause it to start using oil, the engineers designed it for 0W-20, use a high mileage formulation if you want, that car isn't an old GM or Ford V8 that will run on anything from 10W-30 to 20W-50. Old cars had much more liberal tolerances and used much stiffer piston rings, requiring heavy oil to keep lubricated. You can squeeze the piston rings in your engine with your bare hands, the piston rings in a 1965 Mustang would need special tools to put pistons back in the engine. Stick to what is in your owner's manual, and only use that. Engineers know what they're doing. | |||||
| Advice on 1995 Ford Taurus Transmission rebuild | 16Relevance | 4 years ago | Tnrdneck666 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 95 ford taurus gl 3.0l with AX4N METRIC Transmission. Its my first attempt to rebuild. Ive bought the Ford AX4N REFERENCE MANUALS volume A&B. Read everything I can find for two months now. Anyways, everything has gone smooth til the piston in the forward clutch assembly had blown out seal. No problem ordered new one part # F4DZ-7A262-AB . Well the seal on this bonded piston is slightly different than the one that came out of it. The one that came out of it is clearly stamped in the rubber seal #F4DP-7L140-AA. BUT, Try to look it up it can't be found until 97 in another transmission an looks nothing like my piston. The one I ordered from the manual looks like it except the bonded seal. And it will not pass the air test before installation. Anyone any advise would be appreciated | |||||