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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: MAF rate g/s and engine wear? | 42Relevance | 3 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I can't help with that video as I haven't seen it. But if you had severe engine wear like bad piston rings the intake air volume would decrease, not increase. You mentioned trying ATS505. I didn't check to see but I assume you did and whichever Nissan model you have (you didn't say) must have direct fuel injection if you're thinking that ATS505 might help with a carbon buildup issue causing this. Here again, I didn't check but I guess you checked and found your 2012 Nissan uses Low Tension piston Rings and maybe you're trying to reconcile carbon buildup on the rings preventing them from fully expanding to seal the pistons to the cylinder walls with the elevated MAF sensor reading at idle. But this would mimic severe engine wear and again, the intake air volume would decrease, not increase. Also it would mimic severe engine damage in another way because you'd be burning oil and it would probably be pretty noisy. Think of each engine cylinder as a lung. As the piston travels down with an intake valve open, the downward travel of the piston in the cylinder creates suction (vacuum) through the open intake valve from the intake manifold. Air gets sucked in through the air filter and the air volume is measured by the MAF sensor on its way into the intake manifold. If you had worn piston rings (or stuck low tension piston rings) the downward travel of the piston would create less suction (less intake manifold vacuum) and the MAF sensor would measure less airflow g/s being sucked into the engine, not more g/s (which seems to be your concern). Of course a clogged catalytic converter would cause the same symptom (lower intake air volume) because as the cylinder tried to exhale through the open exhaust valve on the upward stroke of the piston the clogged cat wouldn't let all of the spent air (now combustion gasses) out of the cylinder. Some would remain in the cylinder and then there would be less cylinder volume to fill on the subsequent intake stroke (lower manifold vacuum, ((lower MAF reading)). Or an exhaust valve that isn't sealing completely. Sucking air through the exhaust on the intake stroke. (Carbon buildup?) Maybe, but that would cause lower MAF g/s as well as a lot of other obvious issues like low compression (misfiring codes and driveability issues) and backfiring. So using MAF sensor voltage signals isn't the best way to determine engine wear because the, engine displacement=MAF g/s at idle, formula is a rule of thumb. An estimating tool. Nothing more because there's too many other variables and on top of that it isn't always accurate especially on little 4 cylinder engines. A dirty or worn throttle body which isn't allowing the throttle plate to close as much as it should will cause a higher MAF g/s at idle. Or a faulty MAF sensor. Or using an aftermarket MAF sensor instead of an OEM. I've seen aftermarket MAF sensors vary from OEM's by as much as 5 g/s at higher rpms. Luckily, you have the O2 sensor checking up on this. Look at your fuel trims. If the MAF sensor is outright lying (not a dirty/worn throttle body not closing enough where the MAF sensor is telling the truth about airflow) you'll see it in the fuel trims. In your case they'd be a little negative at idle (because you suspect the MAF sensor is overreporting airflow and the computer would be adding fuel for that airflow and if the MAF sensor was lying the O2 sensor would see too little O2 in the exhaust and read that as a "rich" condition and cut back on the fuel ((negative fuel trim)). Although I can see how carbon buildup can cause lower MAF sensor g/s readings I can't see how it could cause elevated MAF sensor g/s readings like you suspect. Consider in that Scotty video in which he used the ATS505 on a direct injection engine (I remember that one), it was rattling terribly and I think it was burning oil. And I was impressed by the results. But that stuff is a "hail Mary pass" and if your only complaint is that your MAF sensor isn't adhering to the "rule of thumb", and your fuel trims look good, and you have no driveability issues, I wouldn't mess with something that isn't broken and I wouldn't try the ATS505 in your case. | |||||
| Answer to: Turbo cars and Gasoline | 37Relevance | 2 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You probably misheard him, or misunderstood him. pistons don't melt under normal circumstances that the engine was designed for. The only thing I'm aware of is pinging, or knocking, that's caused by detonation (the volatility of the fuel means the piston is still on the intake stroke when it detonates, you want computer-controlled ignition NOT detonation). This can seriously damage the engine, or outright destroy it, especially if you have an old school carburetor and the engine is purely mechanical. The head of the piston is the weak part. You could easily bend or outright destroy the piston head using the wrong octane fuel, but not the entire connecting rod/piston assembly. You said yourself that premium fuel is recommended. You didn't say it's required. If it's a more volatile fuel (such as regular gas from the gas station), you will get less boost out of the turbo before detonation occurs. Detonation will eventually kill your car if left unchecked. pistons aren't just made out of one material these days. The piston head is aluminum, and the connecting rod is made of steel. There's around 1,000⁰F difference between aluminum and steel's melting points. I know that one, because when I attempted to plate a piston and connecting rod, the chemical engineers told me I couldn't do it all (I used to work at a plating company). I would have to break the thing down and anodize it, etc. | |||||
| Answer to: Liquid piston engines | 36Relevance | 3 years ago | grgpski | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I'd like to get your opinion of the new liquid piston engine. Essentially it's an inside out Wankel rotary engine that addresses the main weakness of the rotary engine. To my untrained eye it looks very promising, what's your take? Thanks!! Greg Check it out here: | |||||
| Answer to: Liquid piston engines | 36Relevance | 4 years ago | Kaizen | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| They looks similar. What’s the key difference between a liquid piston and the wankle? | |||||
| Replacing piston rings on 4 Cylinder Camry | 26Relevance | 2 years ago | Shone200 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Can you install piston rings without removing the engine? Or do you have to remove the engine inorder to replace piston rings? To remove the engine I would need a cherry picker and some jack stands but if I don't have to remove the engine maybe it would be easier but more labor intense? Has anyone replaced piston rings without removing an engine? Anything helps. | |||||
| Answer to: Liquid piston engines | 39Relevance | 4 years ago | Colbyjack | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Here's what they said on their website about the differences. While it is a rotary engine, liquidPiston’s X Engine is NOT a Wankel engine. It has a fundamentally different architecture and operation.The Wankel rotary engine demonstrated excellent power to weight characteristics and exhibited low vibration even at high RPM. Despite these advantages, the Wankel was always plagued by poor fuel economy, emissions problems, and durability issues, especially in the apex / tip seals. These challenges are due to a number of inherent issues: 1) a narrow combustio ... | |||||
| Answer to: Fuel in oil | 32Relevance | 1 year ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You're referring to a phenomenon called blow-by. Fuel doesn't deliberately leak into the motor oil. It really depends on the type of engine you have, how far you drive, and the stiffness of your piston rings. My 1999 Ranger and my 2017 Mustang both get to operating temperature before I stop the engine. Blow-by from the combustion process feeds back into the vehicle's PCV valve. When the engine gets hot, the gas is quite volatile and the engine will release the blow-by gasoline from the oil in the engine's PCV valve. My 2017 Mustang and 1999 Ranger have ordinary fuel injection, which injects fuel into the intake manifold at 60 PSI. Direct Injection, on the other hand, directly injects fuel into the combustion chambers without flowing over the intake valves first. Idling on a GDI engine means you're putting fuel that's around 200 PSI directly into the engine's combustion chambers. As your engine revvs higher, the PSI increases. The more pressure there is in the fuel injection process, the more blow-by is going leak past the piston rings and cause oil dilution. GDI and turbocharging is a massive double whammy. On the other hand, cars like my old Pontiac Catalina feature carburetors. The engine is powered by the relative vacuum in the engine as the piston moves down during the intake stroke; carburetors are not pressurized. The piston rings are also really stiff; I run 10W-40 in that car, and it's compatible with 20W-50 depending on the ambient temperature at the time of starting. Comparatively little blow-by happens with the Pontiac, but it still happens, and there's the same emissions control hardware. 20W-50 is a heavy oil. Ultra-modern engines require 0W-16, which reflects the massive decrease in piston ring tension. Reduced piston ring tension improves gas mileage, but comes at the cost of at-times massive blow-by. That's the nuts-and-bolts perspective. Change your oil at least once a year or 5,000 miles, and your engine will be happy. | |||||
| Answer to: Piston Ring Sealer | 26Relevance | 4 years ago | Doc | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Three snake oil producers that come to mind are Bar's, Rislone and Total Seal. They all supposedly thicken the oil and help seal the piston rings. It's your money. The only thing I know of that cures worn out piston rings is new piston rings. | |||||
| piston slap and oil viscosity - 2002 Mustang GT | 26Relevance | 4 years ago | theeel | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I read some threads in another forum where some posters claim piston slap occurs when going from 5W20 to 5W30. Apparently it only happens in cold weather and eventually goes away when the engine warms up. They said that the piston slap goes away when they reverted to 5W20. I'm curious about why there would be piston slap since both oils begin at a viscosity of 5 when the engine is cold. They were old threads so they were talking about relatively new engines. Is my understanding incorrect? | |||||
| Ford F-150 Lightning electric pickup opinions | 23Relevance | 4 years ago | legacyclassiccomputers | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have built many liquid cooled computers and the liquid medium is mineral oil because it doesn't conduct electricity if something were to leak. That being said I noticed that the electric f150 may have a cooling system at each drive wheel that is shaft driven. Like say as the wheel turns the pump turns. Anyway I think that the liquid medium might be mineral oil versus 50 50 mix of coolant. What do you think? | |||||
| Answer to: Liquid piston engines | 23Relevance | 3 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| we've had this discussion before. Please search before making new posts. Thanks. (merging with previous topic) | |||||
| Ford misfires after compression test | 32Relevance | 2 years ago | crawfordjohn | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a Ford Focus 2016 1 liter Turbocharged, over the past year put in about 4500 dollars, new turbo, new coil packs, new sparks, new cat, etc,Since July been a rumble at certain RPMs as needle goes down from revving engine needle seems jerky as going down,So i checked spark plugs, put in myself in June, Prior sparks installed in Jan 2024, Replaced ignition coils too, piston 1 spark dirty, looked like black sand material not that much but peppered on threads, top looked ok,Did pressure test per your video, results: First try:piston 1 160pisotn 2 90Piston 3 170 Redid piston 2 tighted hose tighter then got 140 on piston twoso:160140170 When I put everyting back, major misfiring on piston 1, very bad. Standard code P0301, mainly on cylinder 1, when putting pedel down hard, misfires on number 3Auto transmisstion, about 130000 miles. | |||||
| Answer to: Volvo xc60 3.2l AWD 2010 engine exhaust problem | 32Relevance | 5 years ago | Th3kr1s | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It all depends on the shops diagnosis and findings. If they performed a compression test and found no compression loss that means valves and piston rings are sealing properly. Then your poor performance, rough idle and oil consumption can be a result of worn valve stem seals and oil seepage into combustion causing the spark plugs to get fouled enough to cause performance issues. Again, if compression results showed good compression then replacing the valve stem seals will most likely correct your issue your issues and like I said earlier replacing all the seals at that point would be the smartest thing to do. If they found low compression in the affected cylinder then the next step for them to do is a leak down test. A leak down test will determine if the valves or piston rings are not sealing properly depending on how much leak down loss that cylinder has. It requires a special tool the introduces air into the cylinder and if air escapes through you intake then it would mean that your intake valve is not sealing. If air escapes through your exhaust pipe then it would indicate an exhaust valve is not sealing. It is normal for you to get air lost through the piston rings but that when you have to look at your gauges to see how much air is leaking through the piston rings to determine if it’s the piston rings. If they did perform a leak down and found air leaking through your exhaust then at that point replacing the valve stem seals won’t fix that issue. At that point the best solution would be to remove the cylinder head and do a complete valve job. If your piston rings are the issue, I hope not, then a complete rebuild or a used engine swap with lower mileage would be other options to consider. Sorry for the long info but it really comes down to what they’re finding are. Hope it makes sense. | |||||
| Answer to: 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rod Knock | 32Relevance | 5 years ago | heyinway | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 4.0 are famous for part of a piston skirt breaking off. Its purpose is to stabilize the piston in a up down motion, whereas the connecting rod is trying to push and pull it "sideways". Usually its the 2nd piston from the firewall. Unplugging injector and compression test will usually not show anything out of the ordinary. Just saw one where the skirt broke off up within 1/8th inch of the bottom piston ring...showed same compression as the other 5 cylinders. No difference if cylinder was connected to injector or not. Head was pulled, all the valve tappets were seized from poor oil change intervals...full of sludge. New tappets installed. Oil pan pulled, rod and piston removed, new piston, rings, and wrist pin, reused connecting rod and bearings. Oil pump, pickup screen, and tube cleaned. Customer wanted absolute minimum done. Will be selling..."recent engine work"...60,000 miles 😰 since last oil change, 200,000 mile engine, compression is at 115#, bearings showing wear but no dirt embedded. Engine probably has 30,000 miles left until bearing failure. | |||||
| Answer to: Replacing piston rings on 4 Cylinder Camry | 31Relevance | 2 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Most likely not. It's front wheel drive, so all of the other components that move the car will be connected in some shape or form to the car's subframe. Even my 1979 Pontiac, with rear wheel drive, can't be accessed without removing the engine from the car. Its rear main seal went out last year and the engine had to be lifted up to even get enough clearance to replace the rear main. Replacing piston rings is a very involved job and requires a lot more expertise than any DIYer who wrenches on the weekends would be familiar with. | |||||
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